Stevens 200 or Pre-Accu trigger Savage 111F

R

Red_Eagle

New member
I can get a Stevens 200 or Savage 111F without accu-trigger. There just about the same rifle from a design prespective. Is there any noticable differance in workmanship between the two? The savage is $336 and the Stevens is $269.
 
From what I hear, they are pretty much the same thing. Have never owned a Stevens but have two pre-accutrigger savages and a good smith can work their triggers over to a very nice trigger. In fact, my smith lightened up my 375 h&h a little too much to suit me and I had him put a little back.

Regards,
hps
 
Stevens/Savage

I also have one of each and like both very much. The triggers where easy to adjust and as for accuracy for out the box can't be beat.
 
I seen that article too. I think I'm probably going to go with the 200. I already have one of the Simmon's 8 point scopes that I took off a Savage 11F package gun. I just have one question for the group. This one is going to be in 30-06 springfield and all of my manuals are showing pretty heavy charge weights for a 6 1/2 pound rifle. Should I just get a pre-fitted recoil pad, and if so, which one? Or should I just take the extra step and get a muzzle break installed?
 
Ive shot the accu trigger savage in 25-06 and the stevens 200 in 25-06 and 223 they all shot excellent, acually besides the accu trigger the stevens is just as good if ya wanna save some money for some nice glass to put on it
 
Aside from the stock, the pre-Accutrigger Savages and the Stevens 200 are the same thing.
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Before getting a Stevens or a Savage with polymer stock, take your hand and give a sharp slap to the bottom of the forend. You will hear a clatter when the forend bounces up to hit the barrel. Those extra bucks for a hardwood stock and a few more for a glass bedding kit are IMHO a good idea.
 
Stevens

M and M all ready brought this up. My rifle was in 7mm Rem. Mag. What I did was after I got the rifle was to take a dremel tool open some channels in the fore end. Then I mixed up some bedding compound and added some #7 shot to it, I took two rods and placed them into the cuts I made in the channel then covered them up with the mix. It stiffened up the front end and added some weight to the rifle at the same time. Now I have a rifle that weights a little more but that I can use a bipod on the the stock won't get up into the barrel. It worked very well. Took a few hours to complete but the end result was well worth it.
 
I picked up my rifle today. I ended up withe the Savage 111. Acouple things I wasn't expecting though. First, instead of having that hard rubber but plate, like the ones on my 11F's in 243 and 22-250, it has something Savage calls a P.A.D. recoil pad. It appears to be a gel type like the Sim's limbsaver. It came with a detatchable magazine. I was expecting a blind magazine. The trigger was so heavy it wouldn't read on my RCBS trigger pull guage. don't know the exact weight but I'd guess around 6-7 lbs. No problem. I had it adjusted down to 3 lbs (with no slam fires:)) in less than five minutes. I just need to find some good glass now. That Simmon's Blazer 3-9x40mm probably ain't gonna last too long on an '06.
 
Sanage/Stevens

Everyone laughs but I get all my glass from www.cheapertehdirt.com Their catologs don't have much in them but check out their web site they carry everyones. I use BSA, Barska, NcStar they have all worked for me but for other they have not. I can't see putting on a scope that cost way more then the rifle I just bought. But thats me and this is just my nickels worth. Good Luck with your new rifle.
 
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