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Steps to preparing brass
- Thread starter Tlewis81
- Start date
what steps do you guys follow and does each step effect say final accuracy more than the next.
There are steps and then there are extra steps that people take for even more accuracy.
The two that I think are the most important (not the only ones) are in making sure each powder drop is the exact same for all the rounds in each batch. And making sure when seating the bullet it is centered directly 90 degrees to the base of the case. This requires proper case prep in trimming, and setting the OAL just off the lands for a particular rifle. Some people use 0.02 off, but I find 0.05 off works better in my rifles.
Annealing the cases is a step that will help in producing accurate re-loads, but is a step that most re-loaders do not do.
I use a L.E. Wilson gauge to insure each case has it's shoulder set to the correct length when resizing cases, but some just use the chamber of their rifle to insure correct shoulder position.
Like I said there are steps and extra steps. What works best for your reloading is something you will need to find out by trial and error for yourself since only you have the exact rifle they will be used in.
Have fun and stay safe.
Jim
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If you have ever been in to race cars or fast motorcycles, there is a similar concept -- it's about the tallying up of small stuff. When you build a vehicle to go fast, you address a whole slew of small things, none of which make hardly a blip on the radar itself, but if you do MANY, you can see results.
Haha, stay with me for one second: on cycle forums, it was a quick inside joke to always recommend to new guys looking for go-fast parts to always go buy celery sticks. Celery sticks was the cheapest way to make a motorcycle go faster and it always works! Which was our way of saying LOSE WEIGHT and your bike will be faster. Same goes for handloading rifle ammo.
You can sit there and spend 10 minutes on each piece of brass but if you don't address your own ability behind the rifle-- it is wasted time and effort. This is NOT a re-direct to change the subject from handloading, instead, it is my way of saying that all the little brass prep angles that some guys work simply won't show up in the real world until you REALLY have all the other things in place or you are shooting extremely long distance and will be able to see an improved result.
With all that said! Haha... the quickest route to accuracy in my opinion, is a quality bullet. It's also the most expensive part of the loaded round. I don't believe any of the rest makes as much difference as how well the rifle likes the bullet. But then again... I merely dabble in rifles and do the lion's share of my work with handguns.
Haha, stay with me for one second: on cycle forums, it was a quick inside joke to always recommend to new guys looking for go-fast parts to always go buy celery sticks. Celery sticks was the cheapest way to make a motorcycle go faster and it always works! Which was our way of saying LOSE WEIGHT and your bike will be faster. Same goes for handloading rifle ammo.
You can sit there and spend 10 minutes on each piece of brass but if you don't address your own ability behind the rifle-- it is wasted time and effort. This is NOT a re-direct to change the subject from handloading, instead, it is my way of saying that all the little brass prep angles that some guys work simply won't show up in the real world until you REALLY have all the other things in place or you are shooting extremely long distance and will be able to see an improved result.
With all that said! Haha... the quickest route to accuracy in my opinion, is a quality bullet. It's also the most expensive part of the loaded round. I don't believe any of the rest makes as much difference as how well the rifle likes the bullet. But then again... I merely dabble in rifles and do the lion's share of my work with handguns.
USMC 77-81
New member
Resize/deprime
Clean primer pocket
Measure all cases, trim all to the length of the shortest one in the lot, within spec
Chamfer case mouths, inside/outside
Clean interior of case mouths
Prime
Forgot to put tumble at the top,wipe free of dust
Clean primer pocket
Measure all cases, trim all to the length of the shortest one in the lot, within spec
Chamfer case mouths, inside/outside
Clean interior of case mouths
Prime
Forgot to put tumble at the top,wipe free of dust
USMC 77-81
New member
I've had very good performance from Sierra Match King for target and Game King and Pro Hunter for hunting.
.now for a quality bullet what do you like...i currently shoot mostly hornady sst
SST's are good bullets, but for paper shooting I prefer V-Max and A-Max bullets from Hornady. Excellent accuracy with them.
Stay safe.
Jim
FrankenMauser
New member
For general use, starting with new brass:
Inspect.
Neck size.
Trim to length, if necessary.
Deburr flash holes. (Not necessary; but I have the tool, so I use it.)
Chamfer and deburr.
For precision use:
Inspect.
Sort by appearance, if I see variations in head stamps or something else obvious.
Neck size.
Chamber-check in rifles with tight chambers.
Trim to common length.
Deburr flash holes.
Weight sort.
Chamfer and Deburr.
Inspect.
Neck size.
Trim to length, if necessary.
Deburr flash holes. (Not necessary; but I have the tool, so I use it.)
Chamfer and deburr.
For precision use:
Inspect.
Sort by appearance, if I see variations in head stamps or something else obvious.
Neck size.
Chamber-check in rifles with tight chambers.
Trim to common length.
Deburr flash holes.
Weight sort.
Chamfer and Deburr.
weighing bullets
I do not reload rifle cartridges, but one thing which I recently started doing with my handgun cartridges is to to weigh the bullets and group them according to small increments. With my .45s, I found 230 grain lead and plated bullets range in actual weight from 229.7 - 231.0 grains. I separated them into three groups: (a) 230.0 - 230.3; (b) 229.9 and less; and (c) 230.4 and greater. While I have achieved good groups without separating, I seem to have more consistently good groups separating out the pills. Did the same thing with my 125 grain - .38s. Since the goal of accurate reloading is consistency, minimizing variables seems to be the key. I have not tried weighing out my cases or making sure they are exactly the same length, although I once trimmed most of them. In my mind, it is difficult to trim them to the exact same length since my Lyman case trimmer has a built in variable with the amount of force you use to tighten down the rim holder. As you tighten down the case rim holder, it pulls the case a little farther away from the lathe end which means the cases are not exactly the same length. It may only be a matter of a few hundredths or thousandths, but I drew the line at trying to achieve the exact same case length. Same goes for cartridge weight because my vibrating tumbler with corn cobb media doesn't clean all of the soot out of all of the case interiors. I presume the soot may also cause the brass weight to vary a bit.
I do not reload rifle cartridges, but one thing which I recently started doing with my handgun cartridges is to to weigh the bullets and group them according to small increments. With my .45s, I found 230 grain lead and plated bullets range in actual weight from 229.7 - 231.0 grains. I separated them into three groups: (a) 230.0 - 230.3; (b) 229.9 and less; and (c) 230.4 and greater. While I have achieved good groups without separating, I seem to have more consistently good groups separating out the pills. Did the same thing with my 125 grain - .38s. Since the goal of accurate reloading is consistency, minimizing variables seems to be the key. I have not tried weighing out my cases or making sure they are exactly the same length, although I once trimmed most of them. In my mind, it is difficult to trim them to the exact same length since my Lyman case trimmer has a built in variable with the amount of force you use to tighten down the rim holder. As you tighten down the case rim holder, it pulls the case a little farther away from the lathe end which means the cases are not exactly the same length. It may only be a matter of a few hundredths or thousandths, but I drew the line at trying to achieve the exact same case length. Same goes for cartridge weight because my vibrating tumbler with corn cobb media doesn't clean all of the soot out of all of the case interiors. I presume the soot may also cause the brass weight to vary a bit.
"...There are steps and then there are extra steps..." Yep. And some of those extra steps aren't really necessary, depending on what kind of accuracy you're loading for. As daft as that sounds.
For example, hunting accuracy doesn't have to be the fabled under 1 MOA. Neither does a long range target load, considering the size of the bull past 600 yards. Far more important to be consistent than under an MOA. Not all hunting rifles are capable of 1 MOA. Doesn't mean they're no good though. Hunting rifles don't require MOA accuracy.
Digital scales(and calipres) are easier to read.
Trimming is more about function than accuracy. Too long a case and you'll have feeding grief. Isn't something is done every time anyway. Checking length is done every time, but you actually trim, chamfer and deburr only as required.
For example, hunting accuracy doesn't have to be the fabled under 1 MOA. Neither does a long range target load, considering the size of the bull past 600 yards. Far more important to be consistent than under an MOA. Not all hunting rifles are capable of 1 MOA. Doesn't mean they're no good though. Hunting rifles don't require MOA accuracy.
Digital scales(and calipres) are easier to read.
Trimming is more about function than accuracy. Too long a case and you'll have feeding grief. Isn't something is done every time anyway. Checking length is done every time, but you actually trim, chamfer and deburr only as required.
Brian Pfleuger
Moderator Emeritus
Tlewis81 said:Ok....so what kind of scales you guys like digital or post and beam...and trimming how vital would you guys say that is??? Thanx guys much appreciated the help and advice
If you're going to "splurge" on one item, make it an auto-dispensing powder scale. If I had to reload without one.... I wouldn't reload.
How important is trimming? To accuracy, virtually not at all. It's a variable so small it'll be covered up by the noise of many other variables, including shooter skill unless you're exceptional. For safety, it could be very important, but only beyond SAAMI max length. Anything less (assuming your gun is within SAAMI spec and it definitely should be) is irrelevant.
FrankenMauser
New member
I use a beam scale (RCBS 5-0-5) for powder charges.Ok....so what kind of scales you guys like digital or post and beam...and trimming how vital would you guys say that is??? Thanx guys much appreciated the help and advice
I use an electronic scale for sorting (brass, bullets, whatever).
Having tested several electronic scales specifically labeled as "Reloading Scales" and found them to be dangerously inaccurate or incapable of responding to powder trickling (including Cabela's brand "reloading" scales), I no longer allow even spot-checking of powder measure throws on an electronic scale. I would make an exception to scales backed by a major reloading company, but I'm too cheap to buy one (and even some of them, like the cheap Hornady scale, have been shown to drift and/or not respond to trickling). ...Not that it matters much, since I've got the 5-0-5.
I just find after some loading the beam scale.isnt quite zeroed.anymore not off by much maybe a 1/16 inche or a 32nd but i get mad lol...i mean i dont see it effecting my loads...i went out yesterday with my two deer rifles and shot at 100yrds my groups were half inche to two inche depending what bullets and powders
Tlewis81,1/2" - 2" that's a no brainer what bullet & powder your going to use. 1/2" group with a hunting pump action rifle, that's good shooting . What rifle are you shooting & caliber. As for reloading, the scale I use is the RCBS Charge master 1500 , Press - RCBS Rockchucker . Tips on reloading, Make all your measurements exact, from headspace, trimming brass to the same size, bullet seating & powder charge. F/L size your brass to .002 headspace.