Steel targets

A

asm3686

New member
I am wanting to turn some scrap steel into targets for the back yard. I just don't know how thick the metal should be. I shoot 22lr 9mm and 40s&w . I also have a 7.62 rifle but don't know about shooting steel with it. Any recommendations would be awesome.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
 
I'm no expert, but the steel I-beam piece I bought two years ago has held up very well to thousands of my 45 and 9mm lead reloads. Rifle rounds go right through it.
 
3/8" plain steel plate will handle up to 9mm/38sp if not solidly mounted. I have some homemade steel targets that have been hammered quite a bit w/o noticeable damage. 1/4" is fine for 22lr.
A word of warning: build the targets so they hang from the top with the bottom angled away from the shooter. They can be shaped like a skillet hanging from the handle or hung from chains. This design will help divert bullets down rather than rebounding them back to the shooter.
I broke the chain on one target recently and was shooting a couple of poorly supported plates which tipped back at the top. Several bullets ended up 50-100' behind where I was standing. That was foolish of me since I knew better.
 
Rigidly mounted, a 22 will dent 1/8 plate, 223 will make a hole in it that looks like a drill bit was used.

Suspended, 22LR HP will splatter and not leave a mark. The swing absorbs much of the energy and the bullet is deflect downward into the ground.

Similarly, using 5/16" plate, a 223 has the same result as the 22 on 1/8" plate and 308 will penetrate. A 338 Lapua makes a drilled hole.

I built some cheap target stands out of 1/2 rebar, chain and turnbuckles.

stand.jpg


$10 in materials ...

And we did a little desctuctive testing ... :D
 
Last edited:
That is basically exactly what I am wanting to make only mine will be 1 1/4 steel tubing for frame bc that's what I have laying around

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
 
We have several Steel Targets for our Steel Challenge Pistol Match. The targets are all 1/2" thick. Some are mild steel, and some AR500. All are holding up fine.

Most of the Frame parts are 1-1/2" or 2" angle iron 1/4" thick.

For hanging targets a piece of square tubing weldeed on the top of the back side will work well to hang it by a chain. This angles the bottom back. It also is easier to repair a damaged chain. We have a 1" and a 1-1/2" thick hanging target at 100 yards. You would never believe how badly shot up they get. The 1" is a 12" X 12" plate. It has about 25% of the bottom shot away. The 1-1/2" plate is a 12" round Plate. It looks like a coral sponge, wall to wall deep craters.

We have as couple silhouettes hanging at our long range impact berm. One is 1" AR400 armor plate, and the other is 1/2" mild steel with a 1" Strike Plate added in the center. They are normally shot from 600 back to 800 yards. We also have a 1/2" AR500 sighter plate.

We have one hickie on the 1" AR400 Silhouette. A 15 year old girl got on the wrong silhouette with a 50 BMG Bolt Gun shooting AP. It did not go through from 600 yards, but it left a mark. The 1/2" silhouette is the junk target for things that might damage the Good AR400 target. It is needing rebuilt or replaced again. It takes a beating from 300 Magnums, 338 Lapuas, and 50 BMG's.

Bob
 
My AR500 sheet of steel can stand up to any rifle round I've thrown at it. Not even a dent.

Most common steel will look like swiss cheese after the first range trip and have dangerous sharp/jagged blowouts where the round exited.
 
I have a 9" and a 12" plate of
AR500 3/8 thick.
they both do just fine up to a
30-30 at 75 yds.
One I build up my back stop at 100 yds
I'm gonna try the 223.
My grandson keeps coming up and shooting
the support chain to pieces, so I have to address
that.
He enjoys it tho and helps grampa re chain'em.
And that's what it's all about.
Back to the OP.
Ar500 is the way to go.
I have multiple targets of mild steel and they're
only good for handguns.
 
I had no idea that the type of steel had an effect on its usefulness in targets. Looks like I will be going for ar500


Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
 
I've used railroad tie plates for years with complete success with handguns. They're too soft for high velocity rifle rounds however...even down to .30-30 velocities. Impacts look like moon craters when shot from a center fire rifle. The plates themselves measure a nominal 9x15" and make a good representation of the vital thoracic region. Best Regards, Rodfac
 
The advice about hanging so far is good. For safety, that is the main consideration.
You said "scrap". OK, go shooting, nothing else matters. Enjoy.
 
I've drilled my ar 500 target with steel core fmj (7.62x54 & 8mm) and it doesn't dent.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using Tapatalk 2
 
AR500 for steel with webbing instead of chains. Webbing takes a lot of hits before needing replacement. Also use sheppards hook for garden hangings to hold the targets. Bent hook of re-rod welded to the back tilts the target away from shooter.

Had some thick cold rolled we where using last weekend. Started with 9 and 40 close up which is fine but when we backed off for some rifle shooting I forgot about the couple of cold rolled. Even 5.56 makes HUGE dents let alone larger calibers.
 
5/16" mild hanging steel will stand up to most hand gun rounds mabe not heavy magnums.Ar500 is very tough stuff. I shot 1/2 mild steel at 200yds with my 223 using 40 gr vmax loaded to about 3250fps and ruined my target.major crators 1/2 way through about the size of a quarter.and that was a varmint bullet.I was very suprised at the damage done.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top