Steel targets for. 223

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milky7272

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I just made this steel plate target. It is made of 3/4 steel. My question is what's the chances of this steel stoping. 223 at say a 100 yards? Its nothing fancy just some steel plating I saved from going to the recycling yard. I hate to shoot it and burn a hole right through it. If you think it will not stop it I will probably just use it with my pistols. Sorry for the spelling, I am on my cell phone.

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Also these are my 1/2 steel pistol targets my buddy cut out on his c&c machine. Biggest I have shot them with is my .40 and they have held up quite well. Sorry but I am new to steel targets just wanted to get some advice and see what others are doing.

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Would one .223" hole be so bad....assuming it did go through? As you said....

Its nothing fancy just some steel plating I saved from going to the recycling yard.
Click to expand...

Suggestion....shoot it (with your rifle) where you would be drilling one of the holes for hanging the target. If it goes through, you have one less hole to drill. If it doesn't, you'll have to drill the holes anyway. ;)
 
I prefer to hang my steel targets with chains. By attaching the chains to the back side of the target, it slopes a bit and deflects bullets downward. Keeps bullets from bouncing back at me.
 
Do a search, mild steel will crater even if it doesn't punch through, resulting in dangerous ricochets at shorter ranges.
I use only AR 500 plate.
What range will you be shooting?

Bit on the large side, huh? Usually we size them at 1-2 moa for the desired range.
 
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the 3/4" plate well work i have a 1/2" plate that i shoot with 68gr 223 and it craters abit but at 100 yards or more you'll be fine

i also have a hardend plow disc that i shoot at 3 and 400 yards it works great. got it from rural king :D

dont shoot fmj at steel
 
I made this out of 3/8" AR400
308 at 500 yards will not even dimple it.

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Guys thanks for the info. I plan on shooting it this weekend at a 100 yards with my FNC .223 hopefully it will hold up thanks a lot for the info.

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Stick with soft points or hollw points and you should be good to go.
FMJs may cause issues with cratering and ricochets.
 
3/4 mild steel will crator with .223 at 300 and that happens to be the closest I will shoot it. If you don't have a flat smooth surface you will be sending bullet parts back at you. At that point distance is your only friend.

I prefer recative steel using AR500 for rifle. Here is the last one I built.


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Here is how it works

 
I found a steel I-beam at a scrap yard last year and have been plinking at it with my handguns. Some yahoo's at the range felt it necessary to try out their AR's and AK's on it, which really tore it up.

Just on a whim I tried my Garand and it made a nice, clean hole through both sides.:eek:
 
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