Steel plates? 3/8or1/2in,

PDshooter

New member
Want to make round steel plates, for 45acp shooting. Should I use 3/8 or 1/2in,steel The only advantage I see for 3/8 is the less weight, to lug around .
 
Greetings,

I have a commercially made swinging metal target of 3/8" steel and at 20-25 yards, it has withstood thousand of rounds of .45 ACP LEAD BULLETS with no problem. You kids at home, I wouldn't shoot FMJ at metal plates if I were you.

Regards,

Ledbetter
 
Depends on how hard the steel is. If it's too soft, you'll get dishing.

There was a bit of controversy at the Steel Challenge one year because the shooters on the third day or so had smaller 8-inch plates to shoot at, because the plates had dished.

Dishing also increases your risk of ricochet.
 
Yeah, dishing will occur on softer or thinner steel. Easily cured with the application of a 10-pound sledge, however...

:), Art
 
Glad you posted here at TFL.

Don't just rush out and buy 3/8" steel. Remember that steel comes in various grades and not all steel is alike.

What you should shop for is steel with a Brinnel rating of 400 (AR-400, abrasion resistence 400) for pistol shooting (AR-500 for .223 rifle). Even then the steel can vary from 350-450 so in addition to asking for AR-400, be sure that it is certified steel. Steel for target shooting should be heat treated and stress relieved. If not, sustained firing will result in the plate being bowed (imagine it being shaped like the right hand side of a parathesis ")" ). Bullets striking near the top can get deflected and richochet back towards the shooter. That's why some LE ranges are going to frangible bullets. It's not just a matter of being lead free (toxic waste disposal) but also of officer safety. Presently only 2 companies in the U.S. makes hardened steel.
 
PDshooter,

When my shooting buddy and I made our own steel targets we went to a junk yard and got a section of an old truck frame. Cost was next to nothing.

Not sure what type of steel it was, but it was just a bit less than 3/8" thick. It's held up to untold thousands of rounds for over over 10 years.

Good Luck...

Joe


------------------
Go NRA
 
I am currently making my own targets also. What I was able to come up with is T1 armor plate about an inch thick. I am going to have chains welded to the back at the top corners so I can hang them from some sort of frame. Any ideas on how to improve these. I will be using my 223 on these and maybe my 3006.
 
I shoot an unknown grade of 3/8ths but it is a good hard variety. Remember to tilt the top of your target about 5 degrees so if somebody shoots FMJ or .22's the bullet will most likely not return on the same path you sent it at :D if it does jump real fast to the left,bullets expect you to dodge right :P
 
Coolray:

You do mean to tilt the top 5 degrees towards the shooter, right?

I much prefer to have the lead/copper splash go into the ground. 5 degrees away from the shooter could make for some interesting fallout. I don't always wear a hat while shooting.
 
To live a short but exciting life, tilt the bottom edge up one degree. Remember to dodge LEFT (thanks and a tip o'the old hat to coolray).
 
Ricochets can be entertaining. :) At my pistol range, I have two paper and one hanging steel targets mounted side by side; and then a Pepper Popper and a couple of home-made steel targets. The last three get moved around to give different angles and distances.

Every now and then, particularly when shooting on the move, the angles get all wonky and I wind up with the occasional welt. Smarts! A .45ACP isn't so bad, but a .357 is an attention getter...

:), Art
 
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by jonb10:
I am currently making my own targets also. What I was able to come up with is T1 armor plate about an inch thick. I am going to have chains welded to the back at the top corners so I can hang them from some sort of frame. Any ideas on how to improve these. I will be using my 223 on these and maybe my 3006.[/quote]

jonb 10, Yesterday my stepsons friend shot the chain and broke it on my 200yd plate. No problem, I told them where the repair links are hanging in the barn. When you weld the chains on the back you will get a nice tip to the plate that will drive the bullets to the ground. My plate is 14" and weighed 96# with light chains. Just two wood posts with a 2x4 to keep them from pulling together. It has taken at least 300 hits from the 300wtb with 180gr Barnes-x bullets, and thousands from other guns. I figure it has another good 20 years of life left. Weld those chains about two inches above center and six inches apart. Ifyou get to much tip all ya gotta do is weld the next link instead of cutting the first one off. beertrucker-x
 
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