steel cylinder for 340pd

W

wayneinFL

New member
Tried this on the smithy forum, with no luck; maybe someone here would know.

My scandium frame/ titanium cylider 340pd, 357 j frame has a warning not to use bullets under 125 gr. I read somewhere this is due to the possibiltiy of excessive wear in the titanium cylinder due to faster bullets.

So, I have been using 158 gr bullets that chrono at around 850-880 fps out of this gun. Too much pressure and the cases tend to stick in the cylinders.

I like the light frame, and don't want an all steel gun, but would consider adding a steel cylinder, if it doesn't cost a fortune and add a whole lot of weight.

Will cylinders from other j frame 357's fit this gun? And is this something that would take a lot of fitting? How much would something like that cost?
 
Yes, they can be fitted. Costs could range upward of $300 (probably more) including the fitting.

Question is.....why pay a premium for a ScTi revolver, pay another $300+, and make it into what is esentially an Airweight .357 level handgun? It will probably go about 16-17 ounces if you had the steel cylinder.

Before I went that route, I would try out the new Gold Dot loads in either the new 135 +P .38 Special or the .357 loads. The .38 +P Gold Dot load is "comfortable" to shoot in the gun and preliminary testing seems to indicate it is a good penetrator with expansion at typical snub velocities.

Best,
JB
 
. . . and I would also consider: (1) that Ti is stronger (in some strength categories) than ordinance steel plus (2) the good engineers in Springfield, Mass, designed a SYSTEM including a titanium cylinder. Therefore, the substitution of a steel cylinder may cause unanticipated and undesirable side-effects. The fact that a ‘smith can get it to function does not necessarily mead it is operating optimally.
 
....plus the fact, that timing of revolver's is very critical to proper
functioning!

Best Wishes,
 
I Have a 360PD It is a carry gun. I shoot it enough to know it works with what load I want and carry it. I have other guns for practice. It is a wonderful little beast. :D :D :D
 
After the cylinder in my 329PD showed flame-cutting on the face, S&W swaped out the titanium for a stainless steel cylinder: minimal weight increase, maximum durability.

(And of course, no charge due to the lifetime warrenty).

You may wish to call S&W (800-331-0852 X6) and ask them the charge to change it out, or wait for a problem and they'll do it for free.
 
I have both a 649 and a 340. Just out of curiosity, I swapped the cylinders with both guns. After the switch, which also required switching ejector rods, both guns worked. Both seemed to be in time in both SA/DA in the 649 and DA in the 340.

I did not have an accurate scale but the 649 dropped about 3 ounces in weight and the 340 gained the same. Both were ugly. The dull gray of the 340's cylinder looked out of place on the shiny 649 frame. The shiny 649 cylinder looked butt ugly on the dull 340 farme.

I only tried snap caps in both guns and both worked. For a number of reasons, I never did try them with live ammo. It was an interesting experiment that served no useful purpse,

John
 
I was thinking of 110 gr 357's- I can get those reasonably, but i know they're not recommended.

I like the 158gr handloads- they're cheap, and shoot well in the gun. But I've heard about all the dirty lawyer tricks. I tried 125 remingtom +p's from wal-mart this afternoon and they just didn't kick much- I don't think I'm geting the velocity out of the short barrel.

I'll try the 135 gr. if I can find them cheap around here. I think the 135 gr. gold dots are jacketed all the way up so they won't deform in my pocket. Yup, I should try those.

I know I keep saying cheap, but I like to practice once in a while with any carry gun. That is, I'd rather be able to hit what I aim at than miss with one of the more exotic loads. And $15 or $20 for a 20rd. box of some of those self-defense loads makes even a 100 round session impractical for me.

JCM, 3 more oz is not much, when you consider I carry 4 oz of ammo in mine anyway. I'm glad to know the difference is so small. And I think mine's kinda ugly anyway with the shiny black finish and frosty gray cyl.- not as ugly as my glock of course. The cylinder swap may be in the future for me...

Old fart:

"You may wish to call S&W (800-331-0852 X6) and ask them the charge to change it out, or wait for a problem and they'll do it for free."

Knowing this, I'll hold off on the cylinder swap for now and wait for a problem....

Thanks for the advice, guys!
 
Bullet-pull ?

I thought the 120gr limit on the 340PD was not due to excessive wear but to limit the possiblity of bullet-pull and it only applied to 357 Magnum ammo?
 
USguns, you're half-right.

From manual:

They do have a warning in there, says to bullet seat test all ammunition in "Ti, Sc, and PD Series revolvers"

Underneath that warning there is another:

"AMMUNITION WARNING
ALL SCANDIUM REVOLVERS FIRING
MAGNUM AMMUNITION
(Example: All model 340's 360's, 386's)

To reduce the possibility of premature cylinder erosion, do NOT use Magnum loadings with bullet weights les than 120 gr."

So, according to that, 110 gr 357 loads can ruin the cylinder...
 
I'd sell the Scandium and go stainless. (I don't think they make an airweight .357)

You'd likely make or not lose money on the deal.

To tell the truth though. No snubby is gonna give you great performance. You need a 3" bbl or longer if you want to get the most out of the .357 cartridge.

You got a great gun. I wouldn't mess with it. If you want more performance I'd switch guns. cheaper to do better to sell later if your tastes or needs change and no risk of damage down the road.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top