Staying warm on the stand

Sea Buck

New member
As I grow older (70+) I have trouble staying warm on the stand. I don't like to bulk up in heavy clothing and then climb into the stand. I'm unsteady enough as it is. My question is : What do you do to stay warm on the stand?
 
I take those chemical hand-warmers and shove one or two into a chest pocket, another under my winter hat. Heating my major heat loss areas (core and head) directly seems to help a great deal. Dont put them right on skin, leave a thin layer of clothes between them.

I have lightweight (2lbs.) sleeping bags I carry up for brutally cold days. I pull it right over my boots up to about my chest. Leaves my arms free for drawing a bow/shouldering a rifle. It also hides my leg movement inside the bag. I can conceal hand movement for operating a call, eat a candy bar etc.

For $99 the sell electric heated vests. Battery lasts over 8 hours on a low setting. Im asking santa for one this year:)

If you can handle your pee better than me, a thermos of hot liquid does wonders.

Eat heavy, digestion creates heat.

Stay safe and good luck!
 
Browning XPO gear is the best. Put it in a backpack to haul to the blind. I've hunted in 25 degrees with a 30mph wind and only my nose got cold. Underneath, I have Merino Wool johns, jeans, and a chamois shirt and wool sweater.
 
I wear Underarmor wicking shirts. Cabelas Dry-plus pull-overs and or coveralls and good pack boots. I layer some, so I hike and then put the outer layer on when I sit.

We use these as well: http://www.amazon.com/Body-Comfort-Full-Gift-Set/dp/B007MRN0Z6

They are reuseable and work pretty well. We get 2 hours of heat from the smaller one and the larger ones, if inside a jacket, last 3-4 hours.

You do have to boil to reactivate, but I much prefer to the disposables.
 
God's nudge

One day while getting into my stand when is was +5 outside, my hands starter to stiffen up on the tree spikes, as they often did. I was half-way up and a little voice asked me; "How old are you?" That was God nudging me and I'm still trying to develop that ear. I worried that even though I'd make it all the way, how would I do getting back down. I decided then and there that it was time to switch to ground blinds and they work just fine. ...... ;)

When you hunt alone, there are always risks and the winds will sap you. ..... :)

Be Safe !!!
 
Refrigerator Carton/Box

Now, understand that I have never done this but a good buddy of mine has, so you will have to follow the spirit of what I'm describing. .... :)

Every year, he uses a refrigerator packing box and paints a camo pattern on the outside. Puts a poly roof on it as well as cuts some needed openings. Hoists it up to has stand and secures it. I do know he has a small heater and folding stool. At the end of the season, he takes what is left, home and burns it. ... :confused:

Be Safe !!!
 
At least 400 gram Thinsulate boots. Thinsulate gloves also help --- Hand mittens are warmer. A warm full head camo pullover. Gore Tex Windstopper jacket/vest an pants. Three pairs of thin polypro long johns.

Besides wiggling your toes...you can expand an contract your muscles, separately, over each part of your body . Eat food before you get cold. Try not to sweat before you get to your stand. Feel slightly cool, before you start your trek to the stand.

Heat packs
 
I stopped buying insulated boots years ago. Most don't allow your feet to breathe, your feet sweat walking to the stand and freeze. I've worn un-insulated boots along with very good wool socks down to 0 and not gotten cold feet. If in arctic conditions well below 0 then I can see it. Especially for snow machine riding or ice fishing where you're not active.

The key to warm feet is to keep your body's core warm. That is the brain and internal organs. Your body uses the hands and feet to regulate body temp. If your core gets cold your body reduces the blood supply to the feet and hands first in order to keep more warm blood flowing to the core. No amount of insulation on the feet will matter if your core is cold. If the core is warm, none is needed.

If your core is warm, the body increases blood flow to the feet and hands in order to cool down the core. If you bundle up too much walking in the feet sweat.

There have been several good tips, but to add some others.

* Most important, a hat, cap, or whatever it takes to keep the head and neck warm.

*Anti-perspirant on the feet will prevent sweating. It really works.

*Change socks after you get on stand.

* I don't wear long underware bottoms, too hot walking in, in fact I'll often start out in just a T-shirt in weather below freezing if I have to walk very far in mountains. But I do carry a day pack with other clothes. Goose down is the warmest and lighest to carry, but there are some very good alternatives today.

* I often carry a pair of lightly insulated warm-up pants that will slide over my pants after I get to the stand to keep legs warm after sitting. In very cold weather I carry a lightweight sleeping bag. They make some that weigh about 2 lbs and compress to the size of a loaf of bread. Getting inside along with everything else is toasty. Not recommended in most tree stands though.

* EAT, EAT. When I start getting a little chilled I eat just a little. It increases the metabolism and will keep you warm. Around Halloween I buy several bags of the bite size Snickers candy bars. It only takes 2 bites to eat one and it warms me up for about 30 minutes.
 
Get a stand with a cloth surround if you are having trouble.

I have one of the folding chair ground blinds i use in cold weather. I close it up pretty tight with just a few openings, open a few chemical warmers and drop them on the floor, and that usually works. If I get cold I get up and walk a bit.
 
I've had problems keeping warm for several years. Now, most of my hunting is done from "deer houses" with a propane heater in the corner if needed. At least now I can claim the deer houses are for the Grandkids' comfort. We locate the houses on known deer travel routes and often see a dozen or more deer per day so I'm not missing any hunting opportunities.
 
Most all heat is lost from the head and feet. Wear good boots with good merino wool socks. Anything that keeps warm and wicks moisture is key. Ive hunted in below zero during december muzzleloader season here in upstate ny. I understand cold weather. I like the Arctic pro Muck Boots. Best 165 buck ive ever spent.
 
I use a Jon-E warmer when I'm sitting in a cold duck blind... but they are not made anymore...

Zippo makes hand warmers and I know one in each side pocket will keep you warm for cheap, but I'm not sure what effect it would have on any game as it uses fuel.

http://www.amazon.com/Zippo-Hand-Warmer/dp/B006M5PTOY

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Hahaha move south. For what? Tiny deer, spiders and snakes? Pass. Ill stay in the cold. Just kidding you southerners. Dont know how you guys and gals handle the bugs first and foremost. They are bad!!
 
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I have used this method for years in my family and it's always worked. We don't have bears down here tho. We set up ground blinds and box stands for the kids and patriarchs of the family. Before season I put a box of kitchen matches, a couple small cans of soup or beanie weenies, sterno fuel, and the Lil sterno oven in the stands. You can just light a small can of fuel to warm yourself if not hungry. We've tried just alcohol in coffee cans but this produces more odors. Especially if grandpaw decided to use the can for other things. Even some of us young men like the boxes on those cold rainy mornings.
 
Speaking of grandpa and extra curricular activities. Ive partaken an ample amount numerous times with buddies and been on stand by 6am with never an issue. Ever. Deer or turkey never noticed. :confused:
 
Upstate81, I agree with you about going south. In Colorado, we have few bugs to bug you and only a few places where mosquitos are so big they work for the Red Cross carrying blood. I can count the number of times I've been zapped by a mosquito while in my yard in the past 35 years on one hand. AND WE HAVE ALMOST NO HUMIDITY. But as a restaurant owner in Phoenix told me a few years ago when I commented about how hot it was, he said, "but you don't have to shovel it." Regarding mosquitos, I have a bone to pick with Noah. Why didn't he just kill those two mosquitos.

But speaking of hand warmers, I have and use one of two Jon-e warmers. One is pocket size and the other is about twice that size. They work well and will stay warm for about twelve hours. Here is a suggestion for these type warmers. Naptha is the same thing as lighter fluid and a lot cheaper.
 
Sea Buck,

I didn't read all the responses so this may be redundant but you can buy electric socks and gloves. If you've watched any of the shows produced in Alaska where people live off grid or do trapping, you may have noticed they wear big bulky white rubber boots. Their nickname is, "bunny boots." These evolved from the Korean war when a boot was developed for cold wet weather. I don't know what the official military name is but they were quickly nicknamed, "mickey mouse boots" because they are black and look like Mickey's feet. I have had two pairs for many years.

Eventually, the boot was improved, made in a white color and used for snow soldiers. These are the white ones you see on television. They are warmer than the Mickey boots. I can tell you I swear by the black ones. I've used them for standing in cold duck blinds and never once suffered from cold feet. One of my pairs is size 13; I wear size twelve. I did this because I can wear a couple pairs of very heavy socks and still not bind my feet. I will say, they are not good for long walking distances. They are completely waterproof and are designed so you can't lace them up tightly. This prevents binding your feet. They are also a bit on the large size. You can still buy them on line. I don't know if the ones you see on line are the original Mickey Mouse boot.
 
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