Starline 44-40 brass

stubbicatt

New member
Thus far the only revolver cartridge I have loaded for was 38/357. I noticed that the 357 required trimming quite often, a task which I don't really enjoy, and would like to avoid if possible.

I have been eyeballing a Uberti 1873 rifle clone chambered in either 44-40 or 45 Colt. I have read here and elsewhere that the 44-40 is better for use with black powder, and it uses a bit less lead when casting boolits, and so I lean towards that cartridge. Also, it has a bigger rim for the extractor to grip hold of, assuring perhaps better function in this application. I've read that Starline brass is very good in 44-40 caliber, as it doesn't tend to crumple as readily as other brands during the seating operation.

Anybody know whether the 44-40 requires frequent trimming? Any advantages to the Starline brass regarding frequency of trimming over say Winchester brass? I do intend to use a Redding profile crimp die to apply a firm crimp to my cartridges.

Lastly, any advantage to the 45 Colt brass re: trimming frequency?

Thanks gents for your helpful suggestions.
 
IN FIFTY YEARS of loading 38/357 AND 44-40 I've yet to EVER see the need to trim those pistol cases, NONE grew longer than SAAMI specifications.
In those same years I've yet to ever see a 44-40 case "crumple" from having the projectile seated. This would be caused by NOT having your dies and expander plug properly adjusted and set.
The LEE FCD is the only die to use for a proper crimp after---AFTER !!!--- seating the projectile.
STARLINE is easily the pick of the litter in 44-40 brass but I've used W-W, R-P, and PETERS with no problems and excellent results.
The RCBS 44-40 COWBOY dies are truly excellent.
The REDDING HUNTER 44-40 dies are also excellent and their FL sizer is preferred for forming the new unfired STARLINE 44-40 brass.
The standard RCBS dies are mucho better in loading 44-40 ammunition with factory W-W or R-P 200gr JSP projectiles.
I load for two COLT 44-40 pistols, one S&W 44-40 pistol, two Cimarron 44-40 pistols [ i'm forgetting something here...] and a UB' '73 44-40 carbine...so far..
And so it goes...
PS: the only pistol brass I EVER had to trim since 1960 was W-W 45COLT brass that was ALL too long, the entire blankety blank lot of it !!! It is still in use since 1971 and has been loaded over one hundred times at last count, ALWAYS with the heavy 45COLT Keith load...
 
One thing I have noticed about Starline 44-40 brass is that it is harder to find than Starline 38-40 brass.

But if I expand the 38-40 brass up to 44-40 size, the neck thickness is still the same as Starline 44-40 brass.

So the only drawback is the headstamp.
 
In my experience loading several different calibers, including 38 WCF and 44 WCF, the case neck splits long before it might need trimming.
 
I've used .38-40 Starline brass for years. Never trimmed and they've never split or cracked. But, I've kept the loads reasonable.
 
Thanks guys. Really thanks a lot for sharing your experiences.

Again my experience with revolvers is limited to 38/357. I liked the Lee factory crimp die, but IIRC the crimping ring that came with the set was too small and would shave lead from my cast bullets in that application, but Lee courteously sent me another that was a bit larger, and that problem was ameliorated. I liked that die, but in that straight cartridge I always felt just a skosh of drag when removing my cases at the point where the bullet went thru the carbide ring at the bottom of the die, and I became concerned that perhaps it was further sizing the bullet a bit smaller by mashing the cartridge brass a wee bit into the bullet as it was removed from the die, hence my use of the Redding profile crimper for that operation. Both made great crimps. --Truthfully these many years later I cannot remember any leading in my Marlin barrel using either of these two dies, but I do remember the concern with the FCD outlined above.

With a 44-40, does the Lee FCD use the collets like bottlenecked version, or the ring like in the 38/357 version?

I guess the RCBS cowboy dies are the ones I will likely get for this cartridge. Not sure yet about the crimping die.

Again you guys have really helped me suss this out.
 
You might have trouble findinjg starline 44-40 right now,
but Dillon has Remington which I've used/am using just fine.
https://www.dillonprecision.com/#/c.../5/Remington_Bulk_Brass__44_40_Winchester__u_

No trimming/no splits/and no "crumpling" of thin mouth area as
all the "Internet-in-the-Know" people wring their hands over.
Just straight/normal cast bullet reloading experience. (And that
moderately thin neck really does seal the bore) ;)

Get the SAECO #420 truncated cone mould/cast soft (30:1)

3343dwx.jpg
 
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Starline 44-40

I just received a post from Starline stating that 44-40 brass will be available May 1st. I have some on back order.
 
44-40 dies

stubicatt - I guess the RCBS cowboy dies are the ones I will likely get for this cartridge. Not sure yet about the crimping die.

I have done well with the RCBS Cowboy die set, operating at slightly larger diameters to properly accommodate lead bullets. Accuracy from my Cimarron 1875 Remington copy is remarkable.

There is no separate crimp die in the set, and I don't find any need for one.
 
I will no longer waste time with WW or RP in 38/44-40. Their brass is thin and splits at the case mouth often after the first reload. Same with 45 Colt.

Starling is a Godsend in these calibers. I lost count of how many times I have reloaded mine.
 
I will no longer waste time with WW or RP in 38/44-40...thin and splits at the case mouth.
Well then something's wrong.
8 reloads w/ RP 44-40 and not one split neck/crumpled case yet.
(In fact I'm going out this afternoon w/ load #9)

BTW: You need a thin neck for 44-40 given the the relatively low pressures involved.
 
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From G. Willikers: Just gotta' ask...
Why does your 357 brass need trimming?

Because it got too long? By trimming all the cases to the same length I would get uniform crimps, which seemed like a good thing.
 
It has been over two months, but Track the Wolf has shipped my Starline 44-40 brass, which means Starline got around to making a batch.

They now have it in stock.... I wonder how long that will last.
 
I have been using Starline 44-40 and recently worked through an issue where a PTX in a case-activted powder measure caused the lower case to balloon/collapse enough for FTF. I reset the PTX to just enough to activate the powder measure, relying on the expander die to set the case mouth. I include the PTX because it injects powder and reduces spillage. I got into the difficulty because I had just installed the powder measure on the turret. The problem is tricky to catch, because once belled significantly the case will not chamber for gauging. You have to backtrack from a finished round that fails to chamber. This is all due to the thin case wall.
 
Howdy

I have not been loading 44-40 for 50 years, but I have been loading it for about ten years now, and I have learned a few things which may prove valuable to the new reloader.

Yes, it is absolutely possible to crumple the neck of a 44-40. No, I have not done so in a long time. I only offer this photo to show what it looks like when a 44-40 neck crumples down below the bullet. I actually changed the settings of my dies in order to force the crumple for the photo.

badcrumple-1.jpg


I will get back to that.

I have read here and elsewhere that the 44-40 is better for use with black powder...

The brass at the neck of a 44-40 is thinner than most other cartridges. Most 44-40 brass tends to run around .007 thick at the case mouth. For comparison, most 45 Colt brass tends to run around .012 thick at the case mouth. This thin brass is why 44-40 (and 38-40 too) tend to perform well in a rifle with Black Powder. The thin brass expands better to seal the chamber at the relatively low pressures developed by Black Powder. The thicker brass at the case mouth of 45 Colt does not tend to expand as well at the same low pressure, and because of this fouling can blow back past the case into the mechanism of the rifle. You will hear it said that the bottleneck shape of 44-40 helps to seal the chamber. That is incorrect. High pressure gas has no problem going around corners. It is the thinness of the 44-40 case mouth that does the trick.


Also, it has a bigger rim for the extractor to grip hold of, assuring perhaps better function in this application.

This is a non-issue. Modern 45 Colt has a rim that is plenty big enough for an extractor to grab. Yes, it is true that 44-40 was originally developed as a rifle round, and had a rim on it large enough for a rifle extractor to grab, while 45 Colt was developed as a revolver round, and early 45 Colt ammo had a much smaller rim than today. This is a photo of some antique 45 Colt rounds. Notice that the rims on most of them are quite small in diameter, most only run around .505 or so in diameter. Notice too that there is no 'extractor groove' on any of the old rounds. Really nothing for a rifle extractor to grab, because 45 Colt was developed for the Colt Single Action Army, and the empties were poked out from inside by the ejector rod. There is no extractor on a SAA. All that tiny rim had to do was prevent the round from being pushed down into the chamber when the firing pin struck it. Now look at the modern round all the way on the left. Standard rim diameter for 45 Colt today is .512, and the so called extractor groove, really an artifact of the way the cases are made, affords plenty for a rifle extractor to grab. Thousands of CAS shooters shoot rifles chambered for 45 Colt, and I have never heard of any extractor problems.

45ColtCartridges.jpg


Anyway, standard rim diameter for 44-40 today is .520, and yes, a rifle extractor will grab it just fine.

Regarding trimming cases: When I first started loading revolver ammo about ten years ago I bought myself a case trimmer. I read up on what the maximum length of 45 Colt and 44-40 were, and what the trim to length was. Then I measured a bunch of cases. I measured them again after a few firings. Darned if the cases did not expand at all. With normal SAAMI pressure loads, I could detect no stretching at all of the brass with my 44-40 and 45 Colt loads. I have never trimmed a single piece of brass in the ensuing ten years. Just no need for it, my brass simply does not stretch.

Now, let's get down to some specifics. In the old days, standard rifling groove diameter for 44-40 was .427. I currently have five rifles chambered for 44-40; two antique Winchester Models 1892, an antique Marlin Model 1894, An Uberti replica Model 1873, and an Uberti replica 1860 Henry. I have slugged all of them. Interestingly enough, The Uberti 1873, the antique Marlin, and one of the Winchesters all have .427 rifling. The other Winchester, and the replica Henry have .429 rifling. For what it's worth, everything I have read about modern Uberti rifles says they are using the same .429 barrels that most manufacturers use for 44 Magnum or 44 Special. This is born out by my Henry, which is only a few years old. My Uberti 1873 was made in the 1980s and its rifling is .427. Go figure. The point of all this is to help determine proper bullet diameter. Conventional wisdom says to use a lead bullet .001 oversize of the rifling grooves.

When I started shooting 44-40, the only diameter I had to deal with was .427, and that is the diameter bullets I used. For Smokeless I was buying hardcast .427 bullets. For Black Powder I was casting my own Mav-Dutchman Big Lube bullets and sizing them to .427. Then I bought the Henry and when I slugged it I found the rifling was .429. I sure was not going to be loading two different diameter bullets, so I compromised, and these days I size all my bullets to .428. The Henry gets shot the most in CAS, and my dead soft, pure lead .428 bullets probably bump up in the bore to fill the rifling. The rifle is very accurate.

I mention all this business about bullet diameters because a 'fat' bullet can help contribute to neck crumpling in 44-40. With a .429 rifling groove, the most common bullet diameter would be .430. That's what I call a 'fat' bullet. Because the brass is so thin at the case mouth, it is relatively fragile. Shoving a .430 bullet into the case mouth can cause problems. It can generate a lot of friction when it is seated, which can conceivably crumple the neck. There is a work around. Most 44-40 die sets come with an expander plug for .427 bullets. However if one starts experiencing crumpled necks with 'fat bullets' the expander plug from a 44 Mag/44 Special die set can be used instead. It will be slightly larger in diameter than the expander plug for 44-40.

Another issue is Uberti tends to cut their chambers fairly tight. When I was first working up loads for my Uberti 1873, I tried .427, .428, and .429 bullets. The .429 bullets expanded the case mouth just enough that the rounds were a bit stubborn to seat fully in the chamber. No problems with .427 or .428, but I had to stay away from .429. Again, there is a work around for this too. Winchester 44-40 brass has the thinnest brass at the neck of any of the brands that I measured. Right about .007. Do that affords an extra .002 of leeway for seating 'fat bullets' in a tight chamber. I used to load Winchester 44-40 brass exclusively, but it has gotten hard to find for the last few years. These days I use Starline brass pretty much exclusively for all my reloading. Slightly sturdier.

Now lastly, I discovered a trick a long time ago to prevent crumpled necks. With a typical seating/crimp die, the bullet is held in position while the brass rises up and 'swallows' the bullet inside the case. The crimp is made as the brass encounters the crimp restriction inside the die. When the die is properly set up, the crimp is formed just as the brass ceases to rise any further into the die. But that extra thin brass at the case mouth is the Achilles heel of the cartridge. If the crimp forms as the case is still rising, and if the top edge of the case encounters the underside of the crimp groove while the case is still rising, just a few thousandths, trouble can ensue. The thin brass is not sturdy enough to dig into the bullet. If it were a 45 Colt, with the thicker brass, the brass would bulldoze its way right into the bullet and form a tight crimp. But if the thinner brass of 44-40 encounters an obstacle in the form of the underside of the crimp groove, it will have nowhere to go. Instead the brass will be displaced down a few thousandths as the case continues to rise, and that is how a neck crumple is formed.

That is how this crumple was formed.

badcrumple-1.jpg


Again, there is a very simple solution. Set your seating/crimp die so that the case mouth never quite reaches the underside of the crimp groove.

Like this:

4440crimpwitharrow.jpg


I have actually exaggerated the gap between the case mouth and the underside of the crimp groove. All you need is a few thousandths.

Another thing to be aware of with that thin neck: The crimp formed is not very strong. The thin brass just does not hold the bullet as securely as a crimp on a 45. I often make up 44-40 dummies to run through my rifles. After a few times through the rifle, the bullets will tend to set back. No, it is not caused by recoil, it is caused by the slamming action of the magazine spring every time a round is stripped off the column. Of course, with a case full of Black Powder this is not a problem, the powder acts as a plug and prevents the bullet from setting back.

For what it's worth, I successfully loaded 44-40 for several years with just a standard RCBS die set. No fancy Cowboy dies and no factory crimp die. You just have to set up your dies carefully. When I started using the Mav-Dutchman Big Lube bullet I discovered I did need the Lee Factory Crimp die. That is because some of the soft BP bullet lube would migrate out of the lube groove into the crimp area. The standard seating/crimp die was not able to compress the lube, and I started having bulges at the crimp. So now I do use the Lee Factory Crimp die when loading Black Powder 44-40s. This die is a collet type die, with four separate fingers that squeeze the case to from the crimp.

4440bellandcrimp-1.jpg


Regarding Splits: I do find that my 44-40 brass develops short splits right at the case mouth. Not every case, but I do get them. The splits happen from work hardening of the brass as it gets belled out then crimped a bunch of times. I could probably avoid the splits if I annealed the brass, but it is not a big problem. I will reload a case with a split at the case mouth if it is less than 1/16" long. Has not caused a problem yet. Once the split grows to more than 1/16" I discard the case.

I hope this has been of some help.
 
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DRIFTWOOD... that was one of the most informative posts I've read here in a long time in the running of quality of UNCLE NICK's posts...

I've not run into any issues loading 44-40 ( but I only load for a single action revolver )... but just wanted to say... well done ;)
 
While loading 357 Mag rounds, I have encountered brass that was too long. When crimped, the long ones developed faint wrinkles in the case, and some have been difficult or impossible to chamber. The ratio of those to proper rounds was about 1 in 100, if that much. I did measure those cases that I could chamber and fire, and they were a bit long. I trimmed a couple, but finally decided to just throw those few away. Not worth the hassle.

And yes, I might have been able to fix the problem with less crimp, but these were hot loads. I wanted a good crimp.

Never encountered that with 38 Special ammo. Odd.
 
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