In revolvers, I've found that stainless are far easier to clean lead deposits off since you can use the lead-away clothes. Blued revolvers take more muscle grease and (specific lead) solvent. Because of this, I've been leary of buying blued revolvers lately. Anyone have an easier solution or product that can do a reasonably quick and easy job getting lead deposits out of blued revolvers? I'm not the type that ENJOYS cleaning guns, but I do clean them after each range session. I just prefer using as simple a method as possible that is still effective. Thoughts?
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Stainless vs blue (cleaning)
- Thread starter CZ_
- Start date
You can use lead-away cloths in carbon steel blued barrels and cylinders with no problems, I know I have. You shouldn't use it on the exterior of a blued gun though. I have used on occasion "Kleen Bore's" lead away cloth on the front of the cylinder "Very Very Carefully" and had no problems either. Usually I just use Shooter's Choice solvent and a bronze brush to clean lead with.
I don't even use the lead away clothes on the inside of stainless steel barrels or cylinders--they leave behind a yucky substance that I don't want in the barrel. I suppose it would come out easily, I just don't take the chance. Basically, I just use lead-away on stainless parts that I can reach by my hand--i.e. the outside parts of the cylinder and the inside of the topstrap where lead tends to build up. I use standard lead solvents in the barrel. From what I can see, I get more lead deposits in these areas than in the barrel--though its possible since the inside of the barrel is dark I'm not catching all the deposits. Certain areas like around the barrel-cylinder gap though get the worst lead deposits and I find that the only way I can remove them to my satisfaction is with the lead-away clothes.
I'll give "Shooters Choice" solvent a try as you suggested to compare it to the clothes.
I'll give "Shooters Choice" solvent a try as you suggested to compare it to the clothes.
The substance that the cloth leaves behind is easily cleaned with a little cleaning solvent or CLP on a patch.
I usually don't use the lead away cloths in the barrel or cylinders myself unless a lot of lead is present.
I find that Shooter's Choice is an all around better solvent for both lead and copper than several others I have used.
I usually don't use the lead away cloths in the barrel or cylinders myself unless a lot of lead is present.
I find that Shooter's Choice is an all around better solvent for both lead and copper than several others I have used.
Lead on blued finish
Like most, I have tried many "magic" cleaners/solvents/lubricants.
On my blued S&W Model 10, I use Breakfree spray with a few patches on the bore, cylinders, and inside of backstrap, forcing cone, etc. I used to use Butch's Bore Cleaner and a lot of wire brushing before I went from LRN to metal jacketed. For deposits on the blued parts, I use a metal polish from Germany; Flitz, which is O.K.'d for use on Hot Blued finishes. Really works! Then, I go over the entire pistol(except Hogue grips) with Flitz's Gun Wax.
Like most, I have tried many "magic" cleaners/solvents/lubricants.
On my blued S&W Model 10, I use Breakfree spray with a few patches on the bore, cylinders, and inside of backstrap, forcing cone, etc. I used to use Butch's Bore Cleaner and a lot of wire brushing before I went from LRN to metal jacketed. For deposits on the blued parts, I use a metal polish from Germany; Flitz, which is O.K.'d for use on Hot Blued finishes. Really works! Then, I go over the entire pistol(except Hogue grips) with Flitz's Gun Wax.