Stainless steel targets

S

sserdlihc

New member
My brother has decided to fabricate some targets out of 1/4" inch stainless steel. Is 1/4" thick enough for hand guns or should he scrap the idea and go with 1/2"?With that said, can he double the plates and get 1/2 and still have the integrity of a solid 1/2"? We will be shooting 22lr, 45 acp, 40 s&w and 9mm. I have always shot at paper targets and never at steel. Any advice on this would be appreciated.
 
Thin steel targets are more easily pock marked, which can cause ricochets.
Combining two thin ones doesn't prevent that.
Best to go as thick as possible.
1/4" is ok for .22, but not for the centerfires.
Most steel targets are at least 3/8 for them, depending on the actual alloy used.
The popular brands on the market don't use stainless.
Maybe there's a reason, besides cost.
Maybe not.
One way to find out.
 
For safety sake I'd suggest using or buying AR500 steel targets. They aren't that expensive for a couple to use for recreational purposes. For handgun calibers you can use 1/4" and never pock mark them. I have seen people get injured (a couple seriously) using mild steel, even thick mild steel, due to pocking and bending of the target. Home made targets, although common, aren't safe regardless of what you hear. I've been hit twice at big shoots where the club made their own targets and they allowed richocheted badly. I once saw the RO at a club get hit and the entire jacket from a 38Super penetrated his face and lodged in his sinus cavity and had to be removed surgicaly.
 
If you go with store bought, the Birchwood Casey World of Targets steel spinners are both inexpensive and reliable.
I've been using them for years, with good results.
Just a thought.
 
stainless steel is harder than carbon steel, but it wont hold up to very long against any .40 or larger, you could double it up then heat treat it- that will do. or just get some 3/8 plate or larger. I used scrap plate that had been padded with 6010 several times on both sides, its a piece ocrap- one of my first welding projects- i will be fabricating a swinging tree next.
 
I have a few of the Artzen (think I spelled it right ) targets AR500 steel. Found out about them on hickok45. I have been very happy with them. Buy differnt sizes so you get a different sound when hit.
 
I subscribe to Hickok45. I like his set up. My brother is looking to fabricate a self resetting target so we don't have to walk down and reset targets after every shoot.
 
Just hang the targets, so they swing instead of fall.
Instant reset.
Or make a double swinger, so no matter how they end up, they are still visible.
 
I built several swinging targets out of 1/2" steel plate. I use shepard hooks to hang them. The swinging part is key to a safe target. It allows the bullet fragment to be directed into the ground and out to the sides. I think I have about 10 plus the shooting tree I built which has 6, 6" targets made from 3/8" thick plate. All targets are at least 10 yards away.

I have had pieces of the copper jacket come back at me shooting the 1/2" plate but it was at a minimal speed(not enough to hurt me).

If possible I would build using the AR500 plate as mine do show some small dimples from shooting it with .40SW and magnum loads. It's not enough for me to be concerned with but some people might differ. My targets only see occasional use so this was cost effective for my situation.
 
Thanks for the insight.
I've expressed to my brother the need for AR500 steel when making the targets. I also forwarded him a link on YouTube to show the difference between mild steel and AR500.
 
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