stainless Steel pistols Verus Alloy pistols

I prefer stainless...

In general I think Stainless frames show less handling, holster wear marks..over time. Alloy frames in particular - have anodized finishes, etc ...and they seem to show even light handling marks..

Most stainless framed guns are heavier than guns with alloy frames....if weight is a big factor to you - its not to me.

I don't think " Durability" is an issue on Stainless vs alloy frames.../ I'm not sure you can wear out an alloy frame even in 500,000 rounds..

Some of it just comes down to what you like the look of ...Stainless or Alloy frames...
 
I developed a healthy respect for both years ago when my Grandfather caught a P89DC on catfish bait and a treble hook. It had obviously been laying down there for a while. Nobody was looking for it on NCIC, so I decided to see what we could do with it. The blued parts were badly rusted and deeply pitted everywhere. The extractor was pitted nearly halfway in two. The frame was alloy and the barrel, trigger, hammer, and sear stainless steel. The alloy and stainless cleaned up and looked as good as new. One new spring and as bad as it looks the old Ruger works perfectly (original extractor and all).
 
Well, a half million rounds might be a bit even for a steel frame, but in practical terms, with standard ammo, the alloy frame will last a long time.

The advantage of an alloy frame (assuming a light metal alloy is meant) is weight. Some of the super light S&W revolvers are so light they are easily forgotten in a jacket pocket.

But even those guns can corrode under adverse conditions, where it takes a lot of bad environment to damage stainless steel. I would favor the light gun for everyday carry, but the stainless in a very humid area or around salt water.

Jim
 
I spent a lot of years in the aerospace industry and have seen what happens or what can happen to aluminum rubbing on steel.

I have two alloy guns. A S&W Mod 59 and a Sig P226. There is nothing wrong with them. I just don't like them. I much prefer steel or stainless steel.
 
I prefer stainless over aluminum.

Advantages/disadvantages depends on application -- corrosion resistance, weight and durability are the points.

Revolvers or Semi-auto? How much would you shoot? Caliber?

No real experience with alloy revolvers but I would guess that given the same number of rounds, an alloy framed .357 revolvers will loosen sooner than an all steel version.
 
In revolvers I would prefer the stainless over alloy,But in semi autos I prefer alloy if its a daily carry.But my alloy frames pistols start showing holster ware
in just a couple of months,does not bother me but but some it would.
I have moved away from light frames in revolvers after a few ultra light snubs.
Just were not any fun to practice with.They hurt on both ends.
 
Stainless - weight. Never needs to be reblued (you can polish it with steel wool).
Alloy -less weight. May need refinishing over time.
 
Assuming the OP meant LIGHT alloy, eg aluminum and not blued chrome moly alloy steel...

I have an aluminum IDPA ESP that is holding up well at match tempo.
Chuck Taylor and Kimber make great claims for aluminum frames.
Wilson invited me to buy an aluminum pistol from them and give their lifetime guarantee a test.
 
I like them both but favor the stainless for the previously stated qualities. Also they shoot soooo soft. Recoil is just a light knock.

My 5906 doesn't rock enough for the sights to move 6" from point of aim @ 11 yards or 33'. Really makes me look better than I really am!;)
 
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Chris, what is your quandry? What is the point of your question?

I don't like stainless guns in the first place. I prefer blue or nickle to stainless. I like alloy frame guns for carry - especially concealed carry. If one is a collector, one cannot purchase a S&W M66 or M60 and NOT get stainless.

Were I working an ocean or oceanside location, I would probably break down and go stainless.
 
Not to be obnoxious....but any model in the S&W revolver line of guns that starts with a 6 ,,,,, model 60's, 66's, 627's, 686's etc ...are only available in stainless...:D
 
What is the intended purpose of the pistol?

One advantage to stainless is that it is readily refinished. You can even do it yourself if you are careful. Scotch brite, bead blast, polished. Whatever you feel up to.

When aluminum wears, about all you can do is color it with a marker.
 
Passivation
There is some dispute over whether the corrosion resistance of stainless steel can be enhanced by the process of passivation. Essentially, passivation is the removal of free iron from the surface of the steel. This is performed by immersing the steel in an oxidant, such as nitric acid or citric acid solution. Since the top layer of iron is removed, passivation diminishes surface discoloration. While passivation does not affect the thickness or effectiveness of the passive layer, it is useful in producing a clean surface for a further treatment, such as plating or painting. On the other hand, if the oxidant is incompletely removed from the steel, as sometimes happens in pieces with tight joints or corners, then crevice corrosion may result. Most research indicates that diminishing surface particle corrosion does not reduce susceptibility to pitting corrosion.

http://chemistry.about.com/cs/metalsandalloys/a/aa071201a.htm

Would polishing remove the 'Passivation' and cause the stainless steel to 'stain'?
 
chris, I've owned and operated many examples of both aluminum alloy and stainless framed guns. The alloy's claim to fame is light weight. Alloy is significantly lighter than stainless or carbon steel, no arument about that. If light weight is most important to you, alloy is the way to go. Like geetarman, I have seen what happens when steel interfaces with steel, both stainless and carbon. Steel Wins. I have alloy framed guns that get carried a lot ( due to that lighter weight ), but shot only a little. I have personally seen two SIG P226s with cracked frames, and one Colt Commander, mine. The SIGs were near new, fired a few hundred rounds of non +P ammo in a semi-auto transition class. My Commander, purchased new, cracked the frame vertically in the slide impact area after moderate use. I have other alloy framed guns that have not cracked at this point, but sure do demonstrate what happens, after light to moderate use, where steel wears against anodized aluminum alloy. I favor stainless guns for extended use and accept the unavoidable weight penalty. I have seen many statements on the internet that allloy frames will last a lifetime, don't worry about it, you can't afford enough ammo to wear out or crack an alloy frame, etc. That has not been my experience. Not only have I seen, and experienced, cracked alloy frames, I've also experienced the slide/frame fit of alloy guns loosening with use. My steel framed guns just seem to get smoother with use, not looser. Ya pays your money, and ya takes your choice....ymmv
 
Stainless? Now why would I like stainless guns?

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Maybe wear resistance, rust resistance, easy modifications that don't require refinishing.

And if you really want a dark finish, you can get the weapon coated by many a company now in dark colors that even add to the stainless corrosion resistance.

Deaf
 
Aluminum alloy guns are on the way out. Their only advantage is lighter weight, at the expense of much reduced life. Most steel guns are good for at least 100,000 rounds before problems start and there are examples with 2-3X that much use. Most aluminum guns have an expected life of around 35,000 rounds. I understand that for most people this is a non-issue as few will ever shoot anywhere near that much ammo through a single gun. But is still something to consider.

Plastic guns have largely taken the market from aluminum. Ruger has stopped making them and S&W has all but stopped. The Beretta and Sig are the only aluminum pistols still being made in significant numbers and if the military and government contracts ever change to another gun their days are numbered.

The older classic guns will always be made of steel, but I cannot remember the last new semi-auto gun design made from steel.
 
Fortunately I've never been faced with an "either/or" choice between stainless steel and aloy. Beautiful blued carbon steel guns are still available.

Bob Wright
 
Alloy is awesome for CCW. Any 1911 with an alloy frame is substantially lighter than its steel counterpart. Alloy frames will eventually crack at very high round counts. Plastic has all of the advantages of alloy without being prone to cracking.

Stainless is a particular subtype of steel firearms with a gorgeous, but hard to maintain finish. I have two carry SS 1911s and have to have them polished every year or so.

I prefer blued carbon steel in terms of long-term durability for a gun that is shot... A LOT.
 
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