Stainless, Cleaning questions.

T

twoblink

New member
I have a Ruger SP101 snubby 357Mag. It gets DIRTY. The front side of the barrel get really black. I've tried everything, and it still is back. Hoppes, MPro7, etc.. Nothing removes it. Any suggestions??

Also, I was going to ask, is there an easy way to remove the wheel? If so, that would probably enhance the cleaning I'm able to do on it.

Thanks.
Albert
 
Birchwood-Casey makes an excellent product...a cloth...that will clean up the front of your cylinder in a jiffy.

Just *DO NOT* use it on blued firearms...it will remove the bluing.
 
Greeting's Poster's;

On the tough, hard to get clean area's of revolver's made from stainless steel; I use a small amount of Simichrome,
available at most K-Mart automotive department's. It is
a pink colored paste like substance used for polishing
chrome. It really works well for getting cylinder faces
and other area's of revolver's really clean and brite.
And, I might add it had never damaged any of my stainless
revolver's, in any way. I have been using it for years.
Best of luck!!!

Regards,
Ala Dan, Life Member N.R.A.
 
I use Flitz metal polish on my SP-101 to get the "nasty" off of the cylinder front and barrel area. About the same as simichrome as mentioned by Ala Dan. To cut the polish a bit and make it go further I like to put a drop of Break Free CLP on my rag and then dab a little Flitz on top of that and go to work. I use an old tooth brush and Flitz to get around the barrel area where it's too tight to get the rag in.

Takes some elbow grease but it works great and it's completely safe on stainless guns. The cylinder front/forcing cone area on my SP-101 looks absolutely unfired after I take the time to do this. Of course every time I shoot it I have to repeat the process... but that's half the fun! I enjoy cleaning my guns!!!:)

R6
 
I am using a Flitz + CLP combo. Not too bad. I just wish the wheel can be removed easily, so I can get into the barrel/wheel lockup area without going toothbrush...

Albert
 
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