As general info, I'll post my answer to your same question on another forum:
Don't use a Dremel. These leave irregular and wavy surfaces.
To refinish a stainless pistol, go down to the automotive supply house and buy a selection of Scotchbrite pads.
These are sold for use in painting cars.
These are synthetic abrasive pads that come in various grit equivalents.
They're similar to the green synthetic pot scrubber pads sold in grocery stores only in finer grits.
To use, select a coarser pad, (not TOO coarse) and rub the scratches and more worn areas.
Stay away from areas that are bead blasted, like the top of the slide, since the bead blasted areas can only be restored by more bead blasting.
Rub until the scratches are either gone, or at least blended in and less visible.
Then switch to a finer pad that more closely matches the gun's original grained satin finish.
Lightly rub the surface until all scratches left by the coarser pad are gone, then finish by "stroking" the pad in the same direction the original grain ran to blend everything together.
This is a method used by gunsmith's to remove scratches and wear marks from stainless, and it can restore a well worn gun to like new look.
Should you decide to attempt to bead blast, make absolutely SURE the bead blaster is cleaned out and reloaded with 100% new media, or make sure the blaster is one used EXCLUSIVELY with stainless and aluminum.
Blasters used to blast carbon steel will embed tiny particles of carbon steel into the stainless, and later, the surface will rust, damaging the gun.
For the same reason, NEVER use steel wool on stainless.
