Springfield

S

sixteenacrewood

New member
Hi, I posted a while back about my intentions of getting a single shot shotgun to modify and refinish, and I do appreciate all the help and input.

Things almost never go as planned and I ended up trading for a pump gun instead. (right after I responded to another post arguing the superiority sxs doubles)
This is a small guilt free Christmas present for myself

I got a Savage Springfield Model 67F, I have done some searching and reading on it here

26 inch barrel - no indication as to choke
no serial number - so I think it's pre 1968 (?)
cycles, ejects, and fires fine
messed up bead
fits me very good, LOP is 14"
spotty rust on the receiver and several large patches of rust on the end of the barrel, bore is not rusted
The only painted metal is the trigger guard

My questions;

any idea as to the choke?

could it be made before 1968? or is there a date code somewhere?

If I install a recoil pad should I cut the stock down?

After reading up I think I have a fairly low end shotgun with no historical or collector value
so after shooting it for a bit, I should be committing no sins if I decide to cut the barrel down to 24 inches or so....? (I read that the barrel is not removable from the receiver)

Would it be ok for shooting slugs, not a ton of them, but enough to zero in for deer hunting.

OR, should I just clean it up for bird hunting with light loads only.

Thanks again for all the help
 
any idea as to the choke?
Click to expand...

There are numerous threads on a variety of forums about how to pattern a shotgun. Once you have digested that, take the ammo you intend to use and go to the pattern plate and see what you get. What the barrel might say a choke is versus what it really is is determined by patterning.
 
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1) Generally, the fixed choke designation will be one or more asterisk's (*) stamped into the rear side of the barrel.

* = FULL
** = MOD
*** = IC

2) All Savage/Steven firearms made between 1949-70 were stamped with a Date Code Letter either on the receiver bottom near the front of the TG, or on the bottom of the barrel(s).

1949 = "A", 1950 - "B", etc, etc until 1970 = "X".

The letters "I" & "O" were omitted due to possible confustion with numbers.

3) If you cut the buttstock for a pad, the cut location & pad thickness needs be taken into consideration, since the finished length sould fit the shooter. If the current 14" pull floats your boat, you should hold the proposed pad with it's shoulder face even with the current BP, and make the stock where the pad's base crosses it. Buy a pad that's overly long, so the stock's bottom line can be continued on the pad. Make the cut a duplicate (angle to the bore, cast-off, etc) of the factory cut/shape/angle under the BP. Rasp/file/sand the slightly oversize pad down to the stock surfaces (use masking tape on the wood, & stop when the tape starts to get cut/sanded).

4) If the barrel's cut, most (if not all) of the fixed choking will be removed with the end of the bbl, making it useful only for slugs (with sights or red dot, etc) and close-cover small game shooting (CYL bore - aka: unchoked).


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Thanks Petah
I did find the letter "E" so that could be 1953, If that's the case then she doesn't look so bad for her age.

I haven't found an * yet but I'll have more time with this gun in a few weeks.
(I just need to live through Christmas, then I get a break)

I hate to sound dumb, but what does "TG" stand for?

I'm a professional woodworker so matching the angle when cutting the stock is not a problem

One of the reasons I may cut the barrel is that there is a rust patch around the end of the barrel with heavy pitting. The inside of the bore is clean.

Could this pitting present a safety issue? If so, then cutting the barrel would be prudent.

Thanks again
 
Pitting shouldn't be an issue if using normal ammo as the pressure at the muzzle is dropping from what it is at the chamber, but this would also depend on just how bad the pitting is. You could try some oil and 0000 steel wool on the rust
 
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"TG" = Trigger Guard

The exterior rust/pitting is no more than an eyesore - as I previously posted, shortening the bbl will result in messing up the choking - IIRC, the chokes on those were made via swedging the end of the bbl, and not bored/reamed from the bore.


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