Spring kits

[Alpha Wolf]

I put a spring kit into my GP100 and it made a huge difference in both trigger pressure required on both single and double action. Makes double action so much easier and allows you to snap it back to the point before the break point so you can steady up and make an accurate shot. Loving these Wolf Springs. Installation was really easy..

I put a spring kit into my Model 60 Smith and Wesson. While it made a difference it did not make it anywhere as easy as the GP100's did. Installation required a special tool and was more of a pain to install. I was expecting a change similar to the Rugar's but I guess because of the differing trigger mechanisms it did not make nearly as much of a difference. Also found that if I actually snug down the cover screw near the trigger that the cylinder release binds up so I must leave it loose..

Hmmmm S&W QA a bit lacking...

 

[MrBorland]

Also found that if I actually snug down the cover screw near the trigger that the cylinder release binds up so I must leave it loose..

Your M60 likely has the older style 1-piece yoke screw, and is a hair long. Screwed all the way down, it's likely binding the yoke, making it tough to open the cylinder. The screw can be filed down a hair, or you can likely replace it with a newer 2-piece version that has a spring-loaded plunger at the end.

I put a spring kit into my Model 60 Smith and Wesson. While it made a difference it did not make it anywhere as easy as the GP100's did.

Being smaller, J-frame actions don't have the leverage advantage that bigger guns do. The springs tend to be stiffer so the hammer has enough oompf to ignite primers. Even when the springs are lightened, without as much leverage, it doesn't feel as dramatic a change.

Makes double action so much easier and allows you to snap it back to the point before the break point so you can steady up and make an accurate shot.

IMO, "staging" a DA shot is a bad habit, and essentially amounts to timing the shot, which target shooters will all agree is futile. If the action's "stagey", consider getting a gunsmith to do some smoothing.

 

[Sevens]

I bought Wolff spring kits for my circa-'82 Model 10-6 and my circa '88 686-3.

With the Model 10, I removed the side cover and replaced the trigger rebound spring with the Wolff reduced spring. Wolff says the OEM spring is 18 lbs and I replaced it with the Wolff 13-lb spring. I also replaced the main spring with the Wolff type 2.

With the 686, however, which is the first handgun I ever purchased my myself (with paper route money!), I couldn't bring myself to take the side plate off. It's never been off since the factory and, well, I couldn't do it. So I replaced only the main spring with the same Wolff type 2 spring.

What I found: The difference in the Model 10 is quite noticeable, but it still doesn't feel like it's been properly altered by a gun smith.

The difference in the 686 is hardly noticeable at all.

 

[amamnn]

I have two model 60s one that I put a Wolff spring kit into and one that the performance center worked over for me while the gun was there for a different reason. The one that the PC worked over was better double action when it came back than it was before I sent it in, but not remarkably so--as far as trigger pull was concerned. The trigger break was worlds better.

The gun that I put a Wolff kit into was better as far as the trigger pull went. I replaced the main and rebound springs both. The trigger break was not so great. I ended up buying some new oil stones and polishing the entire locking system AND the housing and side plate. Now I have a pretty darned good pull and break on that gun.

I have learned that SW does not replace springs when they do the work on these guns so I now have a Wolff spring kit to put in the one that the PF did not replace springs.

I have worked over triggers on my Model 10 M&P and my model 629. Not only do you have more leverage on a larger framed gun like these, but they have a leaf type mainspring which is adjustable. The GP 100 I have worked on has a coil spring like the model 60 SW and even with a Wolff kit in it, and a lot of polishing, does not work as smoothly as my larger SW guns, on which I did minimal polishing.

There is a very good video on you tube for those wishing to work over a small framed SW revolver you might want to look at before stripping the screw heads on your mod 60. It featured Terry Gardener of Impact Guns and is well worth watching.

You may become more interested in contacting Impact or the performance center after watching this video as it will definitely create the impression that the work required, also requires some special tools and a knack or at least experience with mechanics. There is also a web page that describes how to do the same work on a SP-101, which is the same action as the GP-100.

 

[Alpha Wolf]

Thanks for the replies..

Yes, when tight the cylinder does not want to pop out. Feels very tight. I will look into your suggestions.

Just me but have always staged my dual action shots as without this my groups open up as the gun tends to move a tad with such a long pull and the movement is inconsistent. Just me, but this is what I have always done for 35 years. The Ruger is so sweet now in dual action. Whether you stage the shot or not.

I realize the mechanisms in the two revolvers are completely different. Way more stuff going on in the Model 60. I would have thought they could use a lighter reset spring for the trigger. But it appears unlike the Ruger, on the S&W the reset spring may be assisting the hammer spring. Oh well, either way it is better. May need to have a smith do some polishing in there.