Spring kits for 642

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BigD_in_FL

Moderator
Not sure if here or the gunsmith section is the best for getting responses so if this is incorrect, Mods, feel free to move..............

After reading several threads here as well as watching many Boob Tube videos, I am seriously considering changing out the springs on my 642, so the question becomes - which set is the better choice - the Wilson Combat spring kits, the Wolff pack of two springs for the main and rebound or the Apex kit that also includes a new firing pin and spring as well?

If the consensus is the Wolff, how do you determine which weight to go with?

Is the extended firing pin in the Apex kit or offered from C&S necessary with reduced power springs?

Trying to reduce the DA pull to aid in my shooting this thing

Thanks in advance.
 
Stoning and polishing everything will do much more for the trigger pull, than you might expect. It's an easy job for a 'smith, if you don't want to do it yourself.

I would start there, and get the springs later.
(I used a Wolff mainspring - not sure which one. I don't remember if I used a Wolff trigger rebound spring, or if I cut a coil.)
 
...how do you determine which weight to go with?
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Both springs (Hammer and Trigger return), influence the weight of the trigger pull. Replace the trigger return spring with the lightest one in the kit. If it does not give adequately fast and positive trigger return, put the next heavier one in and try that. The goal is to find the lightest one that will work without hindering function.

It is similar with the hammer spring. Install the lightest one in the kit and test it with the primers/ammo you will be using. It the lightest hammer spring does not reliably ignite your primers, install the next heavier spring. Note that some primers require more force than others to ignite, generally accepted that Federals are the lightest, CCI the heaviest of the domestic primers.

You can get packs of three hammer springs, and packs of 3 trigger return springs from Wolff here:

http://www.gunsprings.com/index.cfm?page=items&cID=3&mID=58#443

Do no stoning of parts until you have studied both Micklicks's book and , Jerry Kuhnhausen's book, "The S&W Double-Action Revolver", "A Shop Manual", and you have acquired the requisite skills to stone a small part without changing angles, etc. Working on firearms actions are not for everyone.
 
The only stones I play with hone my kitchen knives and if I am a little bit off, it is no big deal - not even going near the sear or similar. I might use the fine one on the rebound slide surface, but only if it isn't smooth.
 
If it's a carry gun don't mess with the springs. You want it to go bang every time above all else. Just shooting it will smooth it up. I've got one that's about 8 years old and it's quite smooth. The best thing you can do is shoot it, it'll smooth up and you will become a better shot. It's main use is up close and personal. Practice at 5 to 10 yards. Snap caps and dry fire will help, look at the front sight, you can see what happens when the hammer falls.
 
I think Wolff has a three spring kit. I ordered mone directly from him. I shy away from the lightest spring in a J frame if it is used for protection.
 
I believe there was an article in this months "Handgunner" magazine about trigger jobs/Spring Kits on J-Frame Smiths. Their advice was to leave 'em alone and just dry-fire or shoot 'em smooth.
 
I believe there was an article in this months "Handgunner" magazine about trigger jobs/Spring Kits on J-Frame Smiths. Their advice was to leave 'em alone and just dry-fire or shoot 'em smooth.
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"Their advice", is an opinion from one person...the author who, not only is not a gunsmith, but who's primary occupation is gun-writer.
The truth is, while dry firing and shooting will smooth out a factory-rough action, guns are shipped with springs that are heavy enough to ignite the hardest primers and fire despite other adverse factors. In short, smoothing the action, and installing lighter springs and throughly testing them for reliability will produce a gun that is more shootable than just wearing-in the parts and ending up with a gun who's action is "smooth", but still takes two hands to pull the trigger.
 
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