Spring kit for J-frame?
- Thread starter Lavan
- Start date
Apex makes a kit. I had 100% ignition in a 642 with Federal ammo, when I was using cheaper Blazer practice ammo I'd get an occasional failure to fire.
https://www.apextactical.com/j-frame-duty-carry-spring-kit
https://www.apextactical.com/j-frame-duty-carry-spring-kit
Woolf seems to have K-frame springs. I didn't see J-frame on their website.
The mainspring looks pretty compressed and I'd hate to mess with ignition.
What's a good way to lighten/speed the double action on a M63?
Keep looking. They have them.
Jim Watson
New member
Rimfire takes a harder hit to fire than centerfire. You may not be able to reduce M63 mainspring much if at all. Less rebound spring would help the DA some.
I was interested in an Apex Kit for a J-frame 38 special Air-Weight and called a local dealer ,( this was before the Covid thing) and he told me if I bought one they would install it for me and test the weight ... at no charge ... They did it while I waited and had free coffee while waiting . The shop is located in Metaire , Louisiana ... Jefferson Gun Outlet . www.jeffersongun.com
Nice people and the trigger kit works great ...
... and I didn't have to lift a screwdriver !!!
Gary
Nice people and the trigger kit works great ...
... and I didn't have to lift a screwdriver !!!
Gary
I bought the Apex kit and installed it on a S&W 340 PD. Experienced failure to fire of about one round per cylinder using cci primed reloads. Replaced the hammer spring with the factory spring. Left the Apex rebound slide spring, firing pin and firing pin spring in the gun. 100 percent reliability since.
I haven't had good luck replacing hammer springs and retaining 100 per reliability with all primers (a requirement of mine). For this reason I'm reluctant to replace factory hammer springs in S&Ws.
FWIW,
Paul
I haven't had good luck replacing hammer springs and retaining 100 per reliability with all primers (a requirement of mine). For this reason I'm reluctant to replace factory hammer springs in S&Ws.
FWIW,
Paul
I finally got around to replacing my 637's hammer spring and rebound trigger spring, using the Wilson Combat spring kit. I put in the lightest of the three rebound springs. I'm going out later today to test it with a variety of ammo. Trigger is not as heavy, but still rough. Depending on dependability and how I shoot it, I may end up getting a true action job.
I personally almost never shoot my .22 revolvers double action. And, if you're accurate shooting it, then I wouldn't bother trying to "guild the lily." But that, of course is up to you.
BTW, I function tested my 637 with rounds of five different types: Winchester 130 gr. range fodder (standard pressure), Win. 130 gr. +p bonded Ranger, Win. 125 gr +P (white box), Remington 158 gr +P LHP, and 125 gr. +P Gold Dots. No function issues with any. So, I feel comfortable with it if I decide to start carrying it again. And, maybe it's my imagination, but the trigger pull seemed smoother after a a dozen or so rounds.
BTW, I function tested my 637 with rounds of five different types: Winchester 130 gr. range fodder (standard pressure), Win. 130 gr. +p bonded Ranger, Win. 125 gr +P (white box), Remington 158 gr +P LHP, and 125 gr. +P Gold Dots. No function issues with any. So, I feel comfortable with it if I decide to start carrying it again. And, maybe it's my imagination, but the trigger pull seemed smoother after a a dozen or so rounds.
shoot a few thousand rounds DA!
And, yes, I'm serious. Parts will be well settled fitting together, the gun will be well "broken in" and even if it doesn't reduce pull weight measured with a gauge, it will reduce the feel of the pull as your fingers get stronger and you develop "muscle memory" for the trigger pull.
I've seen this done and had it happen to my own guns, get a few thousand rounds downrange, things seem to lighten up. most of the time, anyway.
"take it apart and polish it.." some might think this is the best answer so far, but to me, its the worst recommendation commonly given.
I think anyone who tells you to take apart a S&W revolver and polish it should also include the advice of "and buy another one, for when you wreck that one.."
People will say, "its a simple job, and anyone can do it" and that is, in part, true, anyone can do it, BADLY!
Just watching someone do it on U tube isn't qualified training. Over the years I have seen MANY S&W revolvers that had been damaged by people who worked on them and didn't know the RIGHT way to do it.
Do you know the correct way to remove the sideplate? Its not quite as intuitive as you might think. Done wrong, you can warp, bend, scratch, burr or otherwise damage it.
"Polish the internals"?? Polish WHAT? How much? with what? how much is enough? How much is TOO MUCH?? You need to know these things, because just a TINY bit of "too much" in the wrong spot and you'll need a new part. Do it in the really wrong spot, and you'll need a new revolver.
I say just shoot the snot out of the gun, it will improve. Friend of mine who's had dozens of stainless S&W gives the same advice. Every one he's had, has improved with use, without being worked on, by anyone.
If you're determined you want it worked on to "improve" it, take it/send it to a QUALIFIED gunsmith. Someone who is an authorized S&W warranty repair center, at a minimum. The guy who calls himself a gunsmith because he assembles AR rifles from parts most likely isn't a good choice to tune a S&W.
I've had the proper training, I was instructed by the USAOC&S. I graduated 2nd in my class. I own several S&Ws and I don't touch their internals and won't unless something breaks, there's simply no reason.
If you want work done. go to a professional and have them do it. Pay what they want, and get something done right. I know how, but I don't do it, because I don't want or need to. You do what you think is best, its your gun, and your pocketbook. My advice is worth what you paid for it, but I think its sound.
Just shoot it and enjoy it, I think you'll find it improves over time /round count. And even if it doesn't YOU might!
I think anyone who tells you to take apart a S&W revolver and polish it should also include the advice of "and buy another one, for when you wreck that one.."
People will say, "its a simple job, and anyone can do it" and that is, in part, true, anyone can do it, BADLY!
Just watching someone do it on U tube isn't qualified training. Over the years I have seen MANY S&W revolvers that had been damaged by people who worked on them and didn't know the RIGHT way to do it.
Do you know the correct way to remove the sideplate? Its not quite as intuitive as you might think. Done wrong, you can warp, bend, scratch, burr or otherwise damage it.
"Polish the internals"?? Polish WHAT? How much? with what? how much is enough? How much is TOO MUCH?? You need to know these things, because just a TINY bit of "too much" in the wrong spot and you'll need a new part. Do it in the really wrong spot, and you'll need a new revolver.
I say just shoot the snot out of the gun, it will improve. Friend of mine who's had dozens of stainless S&W gives the same advice. Every one he's had, has improved with use, without being worked on, by anyone.
If you're determined you want it worked on to "improve" it, take it/send it to a QUALIFIED gunsmith. Someone who is an authorized S&W warranty repair center, at a minimum. The guy who calls himself a gunsmith because he assembles AR rifles from parts most likely isn't a good choice to tune a S&W.
I've had the proper training, I was instructed by the USAOC&S. I graduated 2nd in my class. I own several S&Ws and I don't touch their internals and won't unless something breaks, there's simply no reason.
If you want work done. go to a professional and have them do it. Pay what they want, and get something done right. I know how, but I don't do it, because I don't want or need to. You do what you think is best, its your gun, and your pocketbook. My advice is worth what you paid for it, but I think its sound.
Just shoot it and enjoy it, I think you'll find it improves over time /round count. And even if it doesn't YOU might!
Montana Jon
New member
I like the kit, I'm an old fart so what do I know..... I'll be getting an APEX spring kit for my mod 637
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shooter1911
New member
I changed my springs on my 340PD using the Wolfe JFrame kit, and it worked just fine. I didn't make a drastic change, but it improved the trigger pull just enough to shoot this 11.4 oz. blaster with +Ps more accurately, and quickly. My understanding, while I was doing my research, is 22 revolvers are another world when talking about changing springs. Call Wolfe for information about springs. The obviously are quite knowledgeable on the subject.Apparently..... J frames don't respond like K frames.
I should probably forget the idea.