Spotting scope magnification

T

theplague42

New member
What's generally considered the minimum magnification for a spotting scope to see .22 holes in paper at 100 yards? Also, how significantly does the required power change for larger bullets (.308) at 200 yards?

I read somewhere else that 10x could work at 100 yards, but I've tried 10x binoculars and failed. I've been trying to avoid using the shoot-and-see targets as they're small and expensive, but I'm open to the possibility.

Thanks for the help...


Again :)
 
I have used 9 power for 243 bullets at 100 yards with good results. The quality of the glass will determine what you see more than the power will. If you could not see with 10 power.... what brand binoculars were you using. Most good brands have a 20 power spotting scope that should show hits for both your calibers. Go to the store and look through several models. Look for small items to get a closer look at. If it is a large store look for nails or small knots in wood on the other end of the building. If it is a small store look out the window at something small. If you can see small details it should work for your uses. If it seems blurry or dark or you can't see details that should be seen up close don't buy it. Get a look through many brands and models to find what will work for your needs and budget. Not all quality glass is super expensive. I love my Burris Landmark spotting scope. My father in law raves about his Leopold. If you can't look through it I wouldn't buy it. My experiences with plastic wrapped sealed packaging has been bad.
 
If you want a good spotting scope you need quality glass.

Celestron is a good starting point for quality, http://www.telescope.com/catalog/pr...ping&ctype=2&gclid=CIPU6aXJ-6gCFQpm7AodClsxWg

When getting a spotting scope the larger the objective lens the more light it will let in, and 22 caliber holes are a tad small. I was using my spotting scope with a 60mm main lens at 200 yards yesterday and was able to see 22 cal bullet holes off and on depending on the light. I was wishing that I'd gotten an 80 or 100mm spotting scope.

Of course if you are never going to go past 100, then a 60mm is fine. But since the cost of an 80 is not significantly more than a 60 I would just go with an 80 from the start.

Of course my 60mm model has a ranging reticle for "tactical" shooting competitions, but so far I've never needed to range anything with it.

Jimro
 
First what spotting scoping has only 10x magnification:confused:I don't believe that would even be considered a spotting scope, but to answer your question anything over 12-15x you should be able to see .22 holes @ 100yds.
 
I have a Redfield 15-60X scope and use the higher magnification frequently. And, I shoot muzzle loaders that punch holes from .40" to .72". Get the biggest you can but don't sacrifice quality.
 
@Palmetta-Pride
They were binoculars, not a scope. I forgot the brand as I've already returned them.


So it seems like the consensus is in the range of 15-60x. The Celestron is a little pricy for me, but the Barska looks pretty good. I'll look at that, or possibly a 15-40 so I can get the same quality glass for a bit less money.
 
That ones much more in price range. I'd still like it at about $100, but I guess that's impossible with a quality scope. Anyone know where I can get OpticsPlanet coupons?
 
I've been using a Burris 20X50 Compact scope for several years now. Before I bought it I compared it to scopes costing 2-2 1/2 times as much. I was prepared to spend more but there was no need; clarity very good for the price. Most days I have no problem finding all my .17 holes, .22's no problem @ 100 yds.
A good quality spotting scope for your purposes needn't be expensive, just spend some time checking them out.
 
Burris generally uses good glass, on par with Leupold. A bright 20x50 spotting scope is going to be better than a "dim" 20-60x60 spotting scope.

If you want something that will work "right now" and be able to save up for something better in the future, you can go the cheap route and spend 30 bucks and get something like this http://www.opticsplanet.net/vivitar-18-36x50-water-resistant-spotting-scope-w-tripod-and-case.html which will probably do everything you need it to do at 100 yards. Then later you could get a 100mm ED glass spotting scope after selling a kidney....

Used to be you could get a free Burris 20x50 spotting scope with the purchase of a Fullfield II riflescope from swfa. Don't know if that is still the case.

Jimro
 
Clifford L. Hughes

Theplague42.

there's several factors to consider when purchasing a spotting scope that you can see .22 holes at 200 yards with. The first is mirage. When it's hot and the sun's rays are reflecting from the ground a high power scope won't be able to see thhrough them. That's why a variable spotting scope is vital. The next thing to consider is the glass quality. No matter the scope's magnificationa with a poor quality glass you will not be able to see bullet holes at fifty yards let alone at 200.

When I was shooting competition for the United States Marine Corps I used a 20X Bosh and Loam (spelling) to spot .30 caliber holes at 300 yards. With the B&L I could watch the break of the bullet all the way to 600 yards and call the hits to the shooter that I was spotting for.

What I'm pointing out is to buy a quality ($$) glass in a variable power of at least 15 X on the loweer end; the upper end can be any power. This allows you to set the magnifiication for the range conditions.

Semper Fi.
Gunnery sergeant
Clifford L. Hughes
USMC Retired
 
I have a 24x scope and 22lr holes are very hard to see on anything past 50 yards. If there is nothing on the paper, then I might be able to see at 100 yards, but when you get a couple holes in the target its hard to differentiate and tell anything past 50 yards. Using shoot n C targets, 100 yards is good and 200 yards becomes the limit.

So think about that.. If your getting something strictly to see the bullet holes, it better be way higher than that 24x.

But as others have said don't sacrifice on quality because I rented a spotting scope from my range(i think it went up to like 40x), I ended up returning it and using my scope. Past like 15x it was just super dark and couldn't see anything.
 
It's all about good glass, with good coatings, aligned and assembled with precision. To get it all, consistently, is expensive. The best are made by real optics/lens companies.

I've got a cheap Simmons/Bushnell. Crap. Resolution gets real poor as the zoom goes up. I've looked through a low cost Nikon unit and it wasn't much better. I haven't spent time looking at anything better because I know what will happen, I'll have to have it.

Sometimes, you can get a good unit on the cheap, but it is not the norm.
 
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