Bought my son a Browning Gold 12ga used. At some point the walnut foregrip has split but is still in 1 piece. I dont want it to split the rest of the way. I was told there is a fiberglass kit I can use on the inside of the foregrip. Can someone tell me what its called or even provide the link on Midway or Brownells. All I can find are glass bedding kits.
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Split foregrip
- Thread starter BoogieMan
- Start date
You can buy an Acraglas kit at just about any sporting goods store in the country. Mask off any areas you don't want glued. Mix it up 5:1 and apply it to the crack surfaces. Clamp, and let it sit overnight. Generally, for forearm repairs, I also use glass cloth on the inside of the forearm (stop by Home Depot and buy a small piece). Once it's set and hardened, you can sand off the excess and it's stronger than before.
I have regular fiberglass resin (polyester) is that any different than acraglas? As far as availability, the 3 LGS's and Dicks that are in my area do not carry it. On Midway and Brownells there are lots of glass bedding kits but no (that I found) acraglas resin. Would a epoxy resin work better than the polyester?
Im not trying to overcomplicate this, I just dont want to have a crap repair either.
Im not trying to overcomplicate this, I just dont want to have a crap repair either.
What Sorch suggested. Open the crack with a wedge, apply epoxy and clamp over night. I used leather to pad the wood forearm on a Browning clone (treated the wood exterior and leather with Johnson floor wax) and then had two pieces of wood (one on each side of the vise) to hold the stock overnight. Came out fine. I've sanded the stock and restained it and am now slowly apply Tru Oil.
Acraglas is just a fancy epoxy resin. It is popular because it is sold in kits by Brownells, but any slow-cure epoxy resin will work fine. Go down to HD or Lowes and find a good one.Would a epoxy resin work better than the polyester?
Polyester resin will typically not penetrate the surface of the wood, so it will not give a good bond.
Dixie Gunsmithing
Moderator Emeritus
One would think that Browning would have learned from the Auto-5.
The trick is, inletting a shallow band on the inside of the forearm, and epoxying in some fiberglass cloth, like stated above. Then, you refinish the forearm back to factory looks. The problem is, that no matter how well you do it, you'll still notice where the crack was, even though its filled in. However, its either this, or a new forearm, that might crack too.
The cracking is generally from the forearm not being held tight enough against the frame by mag tube cap, and the forearm being made from thin wood.
The trick is, inletting a shallow band on the inside of the forearm, and epoxying in some fiberglass cloth, like stated above. Then, you refinish the forearm back to factory looks. The problem is, that no matter how well you do it, you'll still notice where the crack was, even though its filled in. However, its either this, or a new forearm, that might crack too.
The cracking is generally from the forearm not being held tight enough against the frame by mag tube cap, and the forearm being made from thin wood.
Just remembered something. On some guns the split starts and won't affect anything and stops growing. The Rem 1100/11-87 have such a cut on its receiver. Some shotguns have a precut stress relief on its forends for the same reason. The Beretta 92 pistol has a precut stress relief slot in the slide.
So, contact Browning and ask them.
So, contact Browning and ask them.
ChasingWhitetail91
New member
Couldn't you clamp it with a little wood glue, re-finish it, and keep it in a more humid area.