Spitting Revolver
- Thread starter MilesTeg
- Start date
Yes. Misalignment of the cyinder to barrel can cause it. A loose barrel to frame interface can cause it too.
Also, too-slow burning powder for the bullet weight or too light a crimp or both, in a handload, can be what you are experiencing.
You should be able to identify the debris. Is it powder or bullet shavings? If it is shavings from your bullets, don't shoot that sucker again until you have a good, reputable gunsmith check it. If it is powder, then adjust the loading/crimp. As a rule, revolvers need a good firm roll-crimp.
I would also get my automotive feeler gauge out and check that the cylinder-to-barrel gap is no more than 0.006 in.
This might be a good question for the GUNSMITHING Forum. George will have some ideas.
Also, too-slow burning powder for the bullet weight or too light a crimp or both, in a handload, can be what you are experiencing.
You should be able to identify the debris. Is it powder or bullet shavings? If it is shavings from your bullets, don't shoot that sucker again until you have a good, reputable gunsmith check it. If it is powder, then adjust the loading/crimp. As a rule, revolvers need a good firm roll-crimp.
I would also get my automotive feeler gauge out and check that the cylinder-to-barrel gap is no more than 0.006 in.
This might be a good question for the GUNSMITHING Forum. George will have some ideas.
(I wouldn't want him to go to unnecessary expense if the gap turns out to be .007".)handgun357
New member
If you are shooting relaods, try shooting factory loads and see if it quits. If it does, you know it is not the gun. This will help you narrow it down.
Sensop, I've seen new guns with a .006 gap. I'm not saying that I wouldn't prefer a tighter fit, but that isn't bad. In fact I can testify that tighter gaps with lead bullets can cause problems. Two of my Smith N frames are closer to .003 and both tend to start dragging after 40 or 50 rounds of lead bullets. A quick wipe of the front of the cylinder usually fixes it, but it does happen. Anything over .009 would concern me though.
Swamp Yankee
New member
Miles,
Use a bright light to check around the forcing cone particularly in the area of the top strap for leading.
Your post you stated "more frequently". Has the smoothness of the action deteriorated as well?
Does the crane still fit well against the frame or is there a gap?
Check the amount of play in the cylinder with the trigger held back in the firing position. A little side to side is normal, there should be almost no end play.(Front to Back) With the trigger in the same position you should not be able to rotate the cylinder in or out of engagement. Perform this check on each position.
If anything seems out of the ordinary I'd recommend a trip back to the factory or a local gunsmith with a good reputation. Most smiths will check the timing for a minimal charge or free if you've given him prior business.
These are my thoughts on a quick examination. Based upon your "more frequently" statement, I would urge you to take the revolver to a gunsmith for examination.
Take Care
Use a bright light to check around the forcing cone particularly in the area of the top strap for leading.
Your post you stated "more frequently". Has the smoothness of the action deteriorated as well?
Does the crane still fit well against the frame or is there a gap?
Check the amount of play in the cylinder with the trigger held back in the firing position. A little side to side is normal, there should be almost no end play.(Front to Back) With the trigger in the same position you should not be able to rotate the cylinder in or out of engagement. Perform this check on each position.
If anything seems out of the ordinary I'd recommend a trip back to the factory or a local gunsmith with a good reputation. Most smiths will check the timing for a minimal charge or free if you've given him prior business.
These are my thoughts on a quick examination. Based upon your "more frequently" statement, I would urge you to take the revolver to a gunsmith for examination.
Take Care
Hey guys,I've got a question to add to this discusion.
What if you are experiencing lead buildup in the cone of the cylinder? What is that a symptom of? They look like shavings, or it could be regular leading that is just peeling up. Is this normal, or abnormal?
I would like an answer to this, as I've been pondering it for some time. It happens in my 586, which I've put 10,000+ of 38 spcl, and maybe 2000 of 357 mag rounds through it. Plus, I bought it used with who knows how many through it before me.
What if you are experiencing lead buildup in the cone of the cylinder? What is that a symptom of? They look like shavings, or it could be regular leading that is just peeling up. Is this normal, or abnormal?
I would like an answer to this, as I've been pondering it for some time. It happens in my 586, which I've put 10,000+ of 38 spcl, and maybe 2000 of 357 mag rounds through it. Plus, I bought it used with who knows how many through it before me.
I think I may have narrowed it down to the ammo. I have recently been shooting .357 LSWC Ultramax and it is very dirty/smokey stuff. I went and tried some Federal and Remington today and have not experienced any spitting. I thought I was getting a good deal on the Ultramax and bought alot of boxes and have been using it for awhile which coincides with about when I think this all started. Just to be safe, I will have a gunsmith check it out as well.
Thanks everyone for your feedback.
Miles
Thanks everyone for your feedback.
Miles
SharpCdn - you say you're getting lead buildup in the cone of the cylinder. Do you mean the cone of the barrel, the forcing cone? Or do you mean the front portion of the cylinder that is slightly smaller than the main chamber?
To answer your main question, "What is that a symptom of?"; it is a symptom of too little cleaning. It's normal for lead to buildup in the forcing cone assuming you or the former owner are/was shooting lead bullets. And yes, lead can look like shavings if it builds up too much.
In either case, cone or cylinder, you need to get the lead out. Many of us use the Lewis Lead Remover (or Hoppe's, they are exactly the same). This is a device that you attach a round bronze screen to a rubber cylinder that is slightly larger than the caliber and drag it through the barrel and cylinder, if it has a high buildup of lead. There is a similar device that has a cone shaped endpiece for scrubbing the forcing cone.
You can also use lead removing chemicals, but they won't work 1/100th as fast as a physical lead remover.
If you have shot 10,000+ rounds of 38 Spcl in a .357 Mag without cleaning, I can guarantee that you have a buildup of gunk just ahead of where the .38 Spcl casing stops. The lead remover will probably not be able to remove it right at the cylinder step, it will pass over it. For that you need a bronze brush and your favorite cleaning solution.
To answer your main question, "What is that a symptom of?"; it is a symptom of too little cleaning. It's normal for lead to buildup in the forcing cone assuming you or the former owner are/was shooting lead bullets. And yes, lead can look like shavings if it builds up too much.
In either case, cone or cylinder, you need to get the lead out. Many of us use the Lewis Lead Remover (or Hoppe's, they are exactly the same). This is a device that you attach a round bronze screen to a rubber cylinder that is slightly larger than the caliber and drag it through the barrel and cylinder, if it has a high buildup of lead. There is a similar device that has a cone shaped endpiece for scrubbing the forcing cone.
You can also use lead removing chemicals, but they won't work 1/100th as fast as a physical lead remover.
If you have shot 10,000+ rounds of 38 Spcl in a .357 Mag without cleaning, I can guarantee that you have a buildup of gunk just ahead of where the .38 Spcl casing stops. The lead remover will probably not be able to remove it right at the cylinder step, it will pass over it. For that you need a bronze brush and your favorite cleaning solution.
Hi, SharpCdn,
When shooting .38 Special lead bullets in a .357 revolver, it is normal for lead to be scraped off the bullets as they go through the chamber cone and are squeezed back down after slight expansion coming out of the case. The answer, as others have said, is cleaning. I also recommend the Lewis Lead Remover or a similar gadget. Bronze brushes and/or chemicals take too long. The same type of leading occurs at the forcing cone of the barrel and the solution is the same.
Jim
When shooting .38 Special lead bullets in a .357 revolver, it is normal for lead to be scraped off the bullets as they go through the chamber cone and are squeezed back down after slight expansion coming out of the case. The answer, as others have said, is cleaning. I also recommend the Lewis Lead Remover or a similar gadget. Bronze brushes and/or chemicals take too long. The same type of leading occurs at the forcing cone of the barrel and the solution is the same.
Jim
Hello again,
Actually, I keep my revolver very clean, thank you very much
. I clean it completely after every range session, with a variety of tools, brushes, and solutions. Till it is spic & span. Takes a very long time, but I am METICULOUS.
The leading is primarily in the front of the cylinder, and is very noticeable after only 20-30 rounds. By the end of the range session, I will also have some leading in the forcing cone and first 1/4" to 3/8" or so of the barrel, but I consider this normal.
It is the large amounts of lead/lead shavings that I see in the cylinder, at its narrowest point that I am curious about. Is that normal?
I should really have it looked at, but there is no reputable revolver 'smith around. (Plus getting a permit for taking it to the smith is a pain in the ass up here).
Would I not have this problem if I had a 38 spcl only cylinder? I would assume then that I could expect greater accuracy from a 38 spcl cylinder then a 357 cylinder. (Using 38 spcl lead loads that is).
Is it a commonly accepted notion that you can get greater accuracy from a dedicated 38 than a 357 using 38 loads? (Due to the lack of lead scraping in the cylinder cone)
Thanks for the input so far jim K, and Mal H.
Actually, I keep my revolver very clean, thank you very much
. I clean it completely after every range session, with a variety of tools, brushes, and solutions. Till it is spic & span. Takes a very long time, but I am METICULOUS.The leading is primarily in the front of the cylinder, and is very noticeable after only 20-30 rounds. By the end of the range session, I will also have some leading in the forcing cone and first 1/4" to 3/8" or so of the barrel, but I consider this normal.
It is the large amounts of lead/lead shavings that I see in the cylinder, at its narrowest point that I am curious about. Is that normal?
I should really have it looked at, but there is no reputable revolver 'smith around. (Plus getting a permit for taking it to the smith is a pain in the ass up here).
Would I not have this problem if I had a 38 spcl only cylinder? I would assume then that I could expect greater accuracy from a 38 spcl cylinder then a 357 cylinder. (Using 38 spcl lead loads that is).
Is it a commonly accepted notion that you can get greater accuracy from a dedicated 38 than a 357 using 38 loads? (Due to the lack of lead scraping in the cylinder cone)
Thanks for the input so far jim K, and Mal H.