Speaking of practice ammo...

J

Jonie45

Inactive
I have a simple question :-)

What is the difference in using steel casing versus brass ones? I noticed that not too many people use the ammo with steel casings? Is it because it may cause any damage to the gun?

So far so good in my limited experience.
 
Lots of people swear by steel Wolf ammo after using it extensively.

Personally, I want my steel extractor working against softer brass.

Don't know if steel cases were used before WWII, but they supplemented production of regular brass cases.
 
People claim the steel is hard on extractors, but it's one of those "heard it from a guy who heard it from another guy" situations.
 
I've seen some pretty uncomplimentary posts on this and other forums about Wolf and similar steel cased Russian ammo. Many posters write in to complain about how incredibly dirty the stuff is. I won't use it simply because I can afford something that has a better reputation.
 
I can't find it any cheaper than I can buy WWB ($32.96 per 100 45ACP) at Wally world? I been going to ask the manager if he they can give a case discount like Dick's.
 
There's two issues, steel casing and dirty powder. I've used Russian loads before but have sworn off them because of how dirty they are (Russian loads are the only stuff that will jam my Kimber.) Steel casings, however, are fine. Certainly there's a little more wear on the extractor as the metal is harder than brass and if you shot enormous numbers then that's a factor. The steel also doesn't expand in the chamber as much as brass and thus you'll get a bit more blow back - very noticeable in my revolvers, less so in pistols. And you get no brass credit at the local reloader or via Georgia Arms!
 
Why won't some indoor ranges allow it?...technically speaking...

I understand some of them do not sell the steel cased stuff and want you to buy their brass cased stuff....the almighty dollar issue...
 
Very interesting the experience that some of us have with the steel ammo. In my case I've been using 'toolamo' for my 9mm & .45 pistols and so far so good. Haven't really notice much difference in the amount of powder, gunk or crude in my pieces. On average I shoot between a 100 to 200 rounds once a week at the range or matches. At $9.95 and $14.95 (50 count) its a bargain that I cannot let pass @ my local chinamart.

In my Stoeger Cougar 8000F (9mm) I have put 1100 rounds of wich about 800have been of steel ammo. Both the ammo and the pistol have worked fine so far.
 
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Steel cartridge cases are stronger and harder than brass, which unquestionably causes more ware and potentially more risk of damage to firearm's parts. This may -- or may not -- be consequential; for example, some Soviet block small arms were/are designed for steel casings, which obviously suggests they are better able to withstand these additional physical loads without damage. However, I would NEVER risk the long- or short-term reliability or durability of an expensive, high quality firearms for the slight incremental cost savings provided by steel cased ammunition.
 
Why won't some indoor ranges allow it?...
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1) They sell their brass to handloaders, and steel case ammo usually can't be reloaded, so they have to take extra time to separate it out. The same goes for the aluminum cases used in Blazer-brand ammo.

2) Some Russian and Eastern European ammo, particularly older stuff, is loaded with steel-core bullets that have an increased tendency to damage range equipment compared to ordinary lead-core bullets.
 
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