SP101 Trigger Springs?

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I just purchased a new SP101 357mag 2 1/4"bbl. with a hammer.
I just ordered a Wolff Shooters PAC, it comes with a 9, 10, & 12 lb. reduced hammer springs. And an 8 lb. Trigger return spring. I all so ordered the 11 lb. Reduced hammer spring.
My question is which reduced hammer spring should I start with?
I want a reliable gun with a lighter double & single action trigger pull.
Why'll I have the gun apart I plan on polishing the ruff edges all so.
I've watched the videos on YouTube & read a couple articles on how to do it.
I want it to go bang everytime I pull the trigger fast or slow.
I've seen were some people have used the 10 lb. spring & had problems, that's why I ordered the separate 11 lb. spring.
Don't know why it didnt come in the shooters pac but for an extra $4 I figured I'd just get it.
 
I put the 12# spring in mine; my SP101 is my primary CC choice, so I wanted as heavy as possible while making it smooth.

I had the 10# spring in for a while for some range-shooting, never had any problems with it causing light-strikes or anything. I just decided the added safety from a heavier spring gave me some piece of mind on my carry gun.
 
My 2" DAO was very smooth in stock form. It felt even better than my 3". I started with the 9# mainspring and 8# trigger spring. Its been perfect for 300 rouds now. Every gun is different though, some have more internal friction than others. Try the 10# main and 8# trigger and see what happens. There isnt much difference in the 9# vs. 10# mainspring, but for a carry revolver, I would want as much reliability as possible.
 
I trust my life on the 9lbs hammer spring for my SP101 for CCW. It goes bang every time, but, that's my machine, yours might be different. After 500-1000 rounds (who counts?) never a missfire.
 
I've proably dry fired it a 1000 times in the past 3 days & double action is still ruff. So when I take it apart to polish parts I might as well lighten the double action trigger pull. (already ordered the springs)
Is the hammer spring what lightens the trigger pull?
The trigger return spring doesn't have anything to do with the trigger pull right?
 
Your action will improved much more by stoning all of the burrs out of the frame that Ruger leaves in every gun. Especially inside the hole the trigger return springs rides in. And both inside surfaces of the frame where the trigger and hammer rub against it. Smooth all of the corners of the hammer strut. They're stamped and have a finish like a hacksaw. I would clean up the internals before I put any different springs in. Do not touch the hammer and sear surfaces at all. On a kit with multiple choices go with the middle of the range and see if it bangs 100%. If not go up one spring weight. Even if the lighter springs work you are slowing down the lock time (hammer fall) and the trigger's reset speed by using them. Most revolvers feel great after just removing the burrs. My wife has the same gun as you and hers is running stock springs but has a very smooth medium weight DA pull. Then shoot the heck out of it.
 
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To answer your question, yes. The hammer spring is what will lessen the perceived trigger pull.

I fluffed and buffed mine, but was still not happy with the trigger. I initially went with the 9lb hammer spring and the stock trigger return spring. I had about a 1% failure to ignite my handloads. However, I think that it was due to the fact I was not fully seating the primers. I switched to a 10 lb hammer spring.....and I started manually seating my primers with a Lee Hand Priming Tool and I have had 100% ignition in all my handloads and commercially loaded ammo.
 
Both springs contribute to the felt trigger pull. I also have an SP101-22 and installed the 8# return spring ONLY. The trigger was much improved. I left the Rimfire hammer spring installed because Rimfire needs a stronger hammer hit to reliably ignite the cartridge. With the 12# mainsring, the SP101-22 was 80% reliable.
 
Be sure to thoroughly test the gun in DOUBLE-ACTION, including some rapid fire if any springs are replaced.

Firing double-action on most revolvers results in a slightly lighter hammer strike than when firing single-action.

Replacing the trigger return spring can cause issues for some shooters in rapid-fire since a less positive trigger return can increase the tendency for some shooters to short stroke the trigger.
 
Well I received my springs yesterday so decided to do my trigger job today.
While I had the gun apart I polished everything that needed polished.
I'm gonna start with the 10lb. hammer spring & see how it shoots. I left the stock trigger return spring in but did take it out & clean up the inside where the spring goes.
I have to say that before I did this the double action pull felt grity & was defenetly harder to pull. Now it's smooth & lighter.
I haven't had a chance to shoot it yet but I'll let you know if any miss fires occure.
This was the best instruction I found on how to do the trigger job.
http://www.teslamap.com/public/sp101_trigger_job/index.html
 
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