JACKlangrishe
New member
Hey Everyone!!
So I've posted a few questions about my greatly anticipated Pietta '60 Army and have received lots of great info, but there are a few rudimentary concepts I want to make sure I'm clear on that might not translate 100% from modern firearms.
The first two things I noticed were that de-cocking by easing the hammer down and squeezing/releasing the trigger seems to be a very common practice, and dry-firing without protecting the nipples is not good for the gun. Easing the hammer down is considered a bad habit with 1911's, so I'm used to just dropping the hammer with a dry fire. Basically, the opposite of what you should do with a BP percussion revolver, if I understand correctly.
The next group of questions I'm not so confident on.
Polishing the Bore and Cylinder Chambers
The bore is not a one way street?
I'm very used to cleaning my 1911 with a bore snake, always pulling in the direction that the round will travel and never in the reverse direction. The sticky on this board describes polishing the bore with JB Bore Compound and to "work it back and forth", which I'm assuming won't negatively affect the bore or rifling?
Will these patches produce the snug fit described in the sticky? https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hoppes-1204-Cleaning-Patches-No.-4-.38-.45-40/23236883
Any issues using an aluminum rod? I've only ever used bore snakes to avoid marring. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hoppes-PSS-Universal-Pistol-SS-Rod/23237290
Any easy way to gauge how much paste is appropriate per patch?
The sticky describes a dozen pasted patches with "6 - 8 passes" each but that doesn't mean 6 - 8 full laps, correct? That would be 12 - 16 passes.
Should I keep the same amount of paste and number of passes when polishing each of the cylinder chambers?
Cleaning / Lubing
After cleaning and oiling the gun, should I always keep the cylinder chambers bone dry?
Is it better to have a thin layer of oil inside and out, and dry out the chambers with a dry patch or isopropyl alcohol before loading? Or the old fashion way and pop some caps without anything in the chambers?
Can I get away with using nothing but Crisco to oil / lube?
I use canola oil on my knives and love the fact that it's 100% non-toxic and food-safe if residue is transferred to food from my hands, or if it's used to cut food, etc. I'd like to avoid ballistol or hoppes if I can, and would love an all-in-one solution. Eventually, as I get better, I'd like to make the mutton tallow / beeswax / paraffin mixture.
I won't be able to clean it right away.
I'll be still waiting on delivery of the correct size screwdriver bit set and JB Bore Compound when the revolver arrives. I know they're fired at the factory, and I'd like to get that fouling out sooner rather than later, but I'll have to wait on Brownell's for a few days before I can strip and clean the gun. There's no harm in waiting a bit before cleaning, right? I'm assuming the fouling is minimal, coated with oil, and the gun has probably been sitting in a warehouse for a few months in that condition anyway, correct?.
Sorry for the crazy long post. Don't feel obligated to answer everything, I'm just organizing my thoughts.
Once I get the gun apart and cleaned, I'll post some hi res photos of the Before and After tuning. I can't wait!!
Thanks as always for your input!
Much appreciated!
So I've posted a few questions about my greatly anticipated Pietta '60 Army and have received lots of great info, but there are a few rudimentary concepts I want to make sure I'm clear on that might not translate 100% from modern firearms.
The first two things I noticed were that de-cocking by easing the hammer down and squeezing/releasing the trigger seems to be a very common practice, and dry-firing without protecting the nipples is not good for the gun. Easing the hammer down is considered a bad habit with 1911's, so I'm used to just dropping the hammer with a dry fire. Basically, the opposite of what you should do with a BP percussion revolver, if I understand correctly.
The next group of questions I'm not so confident on.
Polishing the Bore and Cylinder Chambers
The bore is not a one way street?
I'm very used to cleaning my 1911 with a bore snake, always pulling in the direction that the round will travel and never in the reverse direction. The sticky on this board describes polishing the bore with JB Bore Compound and to "work it back and forth", which I'm assuming won't negatively affect the bore or rifling?
Will these patches produce the snug fit described in the sticky? https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hoppes-1204-Cleaning-Patches-No.-4-.38-.45-40/23236883
Any issues using an aluminum rod? I've only ever used bore snakes to avoid marring. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hoppes-PSS-Universal-Pistol-SS-Rod/23237290
Any easy way to gauge how much paste is appropriate per patch?
The sticky describes a dozen pasted patches with "6 - 8 passes" each but that doesn't mean 6 - 8 full laps, correct? That would be 12 - 16 passes.
Should I keep the same amount of paste and number of passes when polishing each of the cylinder chambers?
Cleaning / Lubing
After cleaning and oiling the gun, should I always keep the cylinder chambers bone dry?
Is it better to have a thin layer of oil inside and out, and dry out the chambers with a dry patch or isopropyl alcohol before loading? Or the old fashion way and pop some caps without anything in the chambers?
Can I get away with using nothing but Crisco to oil / lube?
I use canola oil on my knives and love the fact that it's 100% non-toxic and food-safe if residue is transferred to food from my hands, or if it's used to cut food, etc. I'd like to avoid ballistol or hoppes if I can, and would love an all-in-one solution. Eventually, as I get better, I'd like to make the mutton tallow / beeswax / paraffin mixture.
I won't be able to clean it right away.
I'll be still waiting on delivery of the correct size screwdriver bit set and JB Bore Compound when the revolver arrives. I know they're fired at the factory, and I'd like to get that fouling out sooner rather than later, but I'll have to wait on Brownell's for a few days before I can strip and clean the gun. There's no harm in waiting a bit before cleaning, right? I'm assuming the fouling is minimal, coated with oil, and the gun has probably been sitting in a warehouse for a few months in that condition anyway, correct?.
Sorry for the crazy long post. Don't feel obligated to answer everything, I'm just organizing my thoughts.
Once I get the gun apart and cleaned, I'll post some hi res photos of the Before and After tuning. I can't wait!!
Thanks as always for your input!
Much appreciated!