Some Newbie Questions on a .22 Pistol (TX22)

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tlbaxter

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I'm totally new to guns so bare with my ignorance. I have a few general questions.

I'm a soon to be new gun owner (getting a Taurus TX22) and I am wondering if it's safe to dry fire the gun. My understanding is that it's perfectly safe to dry fire a centerfire pistol but because the TX22 is a .22, it's a rim fire (is that right?) and it's not safe to dry fire such a gun.

If it is safe to dry fire a centerfire gun, then what's all the fuss about snap caps? What's point of snap caps if I can safely dry fire a particular gun?

Also, I read that FMJ ammo is preferable because it doesn't leave behind lead residue in the barrel but it seems most .22 is non-FMJ (not sure what it's called, but it's not FMJ). Why isn't there any FMJ ammo for a .22?

Sorry for so many questions (I have a lot more).
 
The reason for the general recommendation against dry fire of rim fires is that the firing pin is aligned with the wall of the barrel in order to hit the firing compound in the rim of the cartridge. In the absence of a cartridge, the pin hits the rim of the barrel, and keeping it up causes peening - deformation of the metal in that area.

The firing pin of a center-fire cartridge is lined up with the bore of the barrel, and so the end of the firing pin doesn't hit anything. A lot of people use snap caps for center fire pistols, though, reasoning that even if the tip of the firing pin doesn't hit metal, something has to stop the firing pin, and having it hit a snap cap keeps other parts of the firing pin from impacting internal structures and causing undue wear there.
 
reasoning that even if the tip of the firing pin doesn't hit metal, something has to stop the firing pin, and having it hit a snap cap keeps other parts of the firing pin from impacting internal structures and causing undue wear there.
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Springfield says excessive dry firing can cause premature wear, so use snap caps.
 
I have READ that the No 4 drywall anchor makes a serviceable .22 snap cap.
One poster said that the blue ones from ACE were tougher than the usual yellow plastic.
 
Taurus states that the TX22 is dry-fire safe.

22LR ammo is either lead or lead that is plated with a thin coat of copper. And, while hollow point 22LR is fairly common, I've never been very convinced that there is much real world difference between hollow point and non-hollow point 22LR.
 
Goodness jmhyer, you derailed a whole thread with FACTS. :D

IMhO part of the fun of a new .22 is finding out what particular ammunition that gun likes. It's possible that your Taurus TX 22 might not like the same ammo a different Taurus TX 22 likes. So grab a box of every .22LR you can find and TRY them in your gun. See which ones cycle the action, which ones turn your pistol into a jam-o-matic, which ones are accurate, which ones lead the barrel, etc.

Fun.

Also, to check the accuracy I'd shoot my test group from some kind of supported position. Could be as simple as sitting behind a table with a rolled up towel under your hands that are holding the gun. You'll see what the gun is capable of doing and then you'll be shamed into practicing a lot to try to meet that standard. :rolleyes:

As I said before, fun.
Good luck.
 
It is OK to dry fire the Taurus TX22. I have about a thousand rounds through my first one and about 500 through my second one with absolutely no issues. I usually run CCI Mini mags.
That TX22 is a fun shooter.
 
Follow up question:

I ordered some (embarrassingly expensive) Armscor 22 LR Precision 36 Grain High Velocity Hollow Point. I just wanted to verify that this ammo is appropriate for this gun. It's not going to damage the gun in any way, right?
 
tlbaxter said:
I'm totally new to guns so bare with my ignorance. I have a few general questions.

I'm a soon to be new gun owner (getting a Taurus TX22) and I am wondering if it's safe to dry fire the gun. My understanding is that it's perfectly safe to dry fire a centerfire pistol but because the TX22 is a .22, it's a rim fire (is that right?) and it's not safe to dry fire such a gun.
Click to expand...

With some .22 LR guns it is safe to dry fire. What does the manual say?

If it is safe to dry fire a centerfire gun, then what's all the fuss about snap caps? What's point of snap caps if I can safely dry fire a particular gun?
Click to expand...

An extra measure of protection against damage.

Also, I read that FMJ ammo is preferable because it doesn't leave behind lead residue in the barrel but it seems most .22 is non-FMJ (not sure what it's called, but it's not FMJ). Why isn't there any FMJ ammo for a .22?

Sorry for so many questions (I have a lot more).
Click to expand...

Lubed right (not by you, by the manufacturer), lead leaves minimal residue in the barrel.
 
Do you all remember that old saying? "Let your fingers do the walking?" Give the company a call, speak to a Tec. ask from a list of questions. From a notebook.
That's how you get answers. And there are lots of books on guns. And ammo.
Welcome aboard.
 
1. Jetinteriorguy is correct, .22LR rounds are copper plated or copper washed not full metal jacket (FMJ). I think it's because FMJ would be more expensive and the copper wash does about the same thing for a much lower price. It's kind of nitpicky to bring up the difference but he is correct and you might as well get the correct terminology down early as gun guys and gals are notorious for getting the terminology correct. (And this is something I agree with).

2. My advice about getting your hands on all the different .22LR you can and shooting it in YOUR gun is still good. You'll have fun and you'll gain FIRST HAND information about what ammo YOUR gun likes. Your Taurus TX 22 is a modern firearm and will be fine with any .22LR you can find

3. Leading is a minor inconvenience, not a major problem. A little work with a brass brush would get it out okay. There are liquids and devices designed to get the lead out but I really doubt you'd need more than a standard cleaning kit (which everybody needs anyway) to take care of your gun.

4. A class on guns and shooting should be in your future. Find a shooting range and see what they offer. It will probably be fun and informative. Then for a real leap see if the range has shooting leagues where you can compete with other shooters. My experience is they usually have different divisions for new shooters and even if they don't competing is a great way to push yourself to be better and have fun and meet people with similar interests. About 90% of gun guys and gals remember when they were new too and are fun to associate with.
 
Lead residue in the barrel, aka leading, is caused by trying to drive a cast bullet too fast. .22's don't go fast enough. Probably billions of lead bullet rounds have been fired out of .22's with no fuss.
"...ammo is appropriate for this gun..." It'd be best to try a box of as many brands as you can to find the ammo your pistol(I think it's a copy of a SIG. That doesn't really matter though.) both shoots well and cycles the action reliably. The price of the ammo means nothing. .22's are just like that.
The Armscor 22 LR Precision stuff is made in the Philippines. Duties etc will run up the cost.
"...What's point of snap caps..." Keeping people employed. Mind you, some of 'em can be used as DP ammo. That's Drill Purpose. Best not to dry fire any .22 without 'em.
 
Welcome aboard, tlbaxter!
tlbaxter said:
Follow up question:

I ordered some (embarrassingly expensive) Armscor 22 LR Precision 36 Grain High Velocity Hollow Point. I just wanted to verify that this ammo is appropriate for this gun. It's not going to damage the gun in any way, right?
Click to expand...
36 grain high velocity 22LR ought to be just fine. It looks like pretty standard 22LR.
 
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