So you can dry fire a smith and wessen without hurting it ehh? I don't think so.

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KilgorII

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As many of you have read, I picked up a older smith and wesson model 13 last week. Well I've been dry firing it a good deal to smooth it out, plus I've been watching liberals on tv and it's fun to practice on them.

Well I broke my firing pin. It just broke the end right off. I have no idea where that piece is as I didn't notice right away. It has the type of firing pin that is attached to the hammer with what looks like a rivet. I was looking at Brownell's website, but the do not list a pin for my 13-1. They do list one for the 13-5. Will it work?

How do I get the old pin out? Drill the rivet?

Where do I get a new rivet and what kind of rivet gun does it take?

Thanks guys.

Kilgor
 
I agree, but I was told it wouldn't hurt it. Plus from my examinations of its mechanism it didn't look like it would because the hammer takes the brunt of the force and there is nothing for the pin to hit. I think it was just a brittle old pin that decided to shatter. I don't know for sure though.

Hopefully it won't be a bear to replace. it doesn't look like it will be.
 
I've snapped my 19s, 28s, 36s, and 58 many, many, many times without having this happen.

I'd better bet it was a flaw in the metal that caused this.

I've replaced the firing pin on an S&W before.

Trust me, it's really something that you should let a Smith repair shop do. It's a MONUMENTAL pain in the butt to do correctly if you don't have the proper tools.
 
Ok Mike, thanks. I'll pull the hammer and send it off to a shop.

Thanks,

Kilgor
 
Take a look at the top of the slot where the firing pin goes into the frame. SOMETIMES, a pin can get hit or if a used gun it can be too high from either a blow or bending. If the pin hits the frame, it will break.
 
Replacing that pin is no big deal. It can even be done without removing the hammer. Wedge the hammer in the "half cock" position with anything handy. Support the hammer on a firm surface with a place for the rivet to go, and drive it out with a regular pin punch smaller than the rivet. Replace the firing pin, then swage the small end (the end you whacked on) of the rivet a bit so it fits in, drive it back in and expand it with a center punch. Can be done almost as fast as saying it. Two people made it easier as one can hold the gun while the other does the work.

As you can probably tell, a broken firing pin on a Smith is not real common, but not a rare thing either.

The firing pin for a -5 should fit OK.

Jim
 
I have a 629-5 that I dry fire a lot [2 to 7 times a week] it is my favorite handgun so it gets dry fired the most of any of my guns.

I figure that something might break from dryfireing but it would also probably break sooner from live fireing [I wouldn't expect the 629 to last a year if I had been shooting mags for every time I dryfired it].

I don't count number of times I actually pull the trigger when I dry fire but usually do at least 24 to 30 times DA and 6 times SA even if I am in a hurry. But if I have the time I will often dry fire for an hour or more.

But I also practice house clearing & movement with it as part of dryfireing [it had a 4" brrl and is my nightstand gun] and also use the TV to provide shoot no shoot targets to engage.
 
Ok, before I read today's replies I called my gunsmith and he won't be able to get on it until next Tuesday.

After reading Jim's advise, I drove the rivet out. I am mechanically adept and feel I can do the job if flaring out the rivet is enough to hold. I took the hammer out of the gun before doing it because I didn't want to bend the hammer post. It came out ok, it took a decent amount of force.

I'll order the nose and try to put it in with the flare method. If I can't do it then my gunsmith will.

Two questions:

Is the hammer nose supposed to be loose? It moved up and down about 1/8" when I got it. It never misfired or had a light strike.

Is flaring the old rivet out enough to hold the nose in? Or do I need a new rivet?

Thank you guys for your help thus far.

Kilgor
 
More power to you.

Unfortunatly, I've seen more than one S&W badly damaged from removing the firing pin the way that has been mentioned, including bulging of the side plate, warping of the hammer, and bending of the hammer pivot pin.

I do not, in any way shape or form, advise doing this with the hammer in the gun.

Now that you have it out, though, the easiest way to reflare the rivet is to take the hammer out of the gun, lay it on a piece of flat steel, and use a large-bore center punch that closely matches the flare angle.
 
Mike,

It was Jim that said you could do it with the hammer in the gun. That very well may work, but I felt it would be better to do it with it out, so I did.

Ron,

Thanks!
 
I answered you over on GT the same as Jim. I don't think I mentioned removing the hammer first!:( Me bad.:) I wouldn't risk the possible damage as Mike described.:D
 
"You could always get a GP-100"

Thanks for your kindness!!!

Email me at JALowry1@aol.com and I'll send you the address where you can mail the check. I really appreciate the offer to buy me one, really I do. :rolleyes:
 
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