So........tell me about refinishing.

S

SonOfScubaDiver

New member
I've heard a few folks on the videos I've seen talk about getting their guns refinished. I can't remember all the terms I've heard and seen, but I know one of them is cerakote. What all is involved in refinishing a pistol? The reason I ask is because my Bersa Thunder is starting to show little nicks here and there from being my current EDC. I'm wondering if spending a little loot on getting it refinished would be worth the money.
 
So for a couple hundred bucks you will get rid of the nicks for a few weeks, or months until new ones appear. Unless you just like to show off how purdy your gun is, finish on an EDC is about the last thing I would worry about.
 
So when it comes to slide finishes on pistols there are often two aspects: the metal treatment and then the exterior finish. Pistol slides often undergo types of treatments that offer them rust prevention, such as Tennifer. Then there is often a finish, such as some kind of oxide, applied to the exterior over the metal. In cases such as those the exterior finish really isn't key to preventing rust as the treatment permeates the metal to a certain depth. However, older finishes or other companies just use an exterior finish. Often those can be touched up, such as bluing or enamel finishes, if you want. Or you can send a slide or the whole pistol in to be completely refinished.

There are typically places that do refinishing locally or some finishes like duracote can even be done by yourself. If all you want is the slide you can save some money in shipping and the job will take less time. This is because sending in a whole pistol generally requires faster shipping options from FedEx and UPS as you're mailing the serialized frame (what is the firearm in the eyes of the law) and you can't mail a pistol USPS unless you're an FFL, IIRC. Turnaround depends on the place but if you call they usually can give an estimate.

My only gripe with duracote and cerakote is I've never seen them hold up well, even from repeated presentations from say a kydex holster. That said they're better than your basic rattle can job by far when it comes to durability and rust prevention, though not as easy to touch up.

While I personally don't care if my pistol gets some cosmetic wear, rust can be a problem depending on your climate. Of course some daily tlc can usually stop that too, but I frankly wouldn't worry about refinishing a pistol for just some nicks. Repeated rust would convince me though. There's also nothing wrong with simply wanting to refinish a pistol just because.
 
Here's what I'll tell you about refinishing-DON'T.
You will destroy the resale value of your gun and most refinishes don't hold up well. Bluing (as a practical matter) offers little resistance to rust and wears readily. The gun paints like Duracote and Cerakote hold up a little better than bluing, but they still wear quickly.
There are upgraded finishes that can be applied-plating and nitriding are two of the most popular.
Having your gun reblued or painted will cost you about what the upgraded finishes cost.
 
I recently picked up a like new Bersa Thunder (380) for $250. I don't ever think I would pay someone to Cerakote it. I might try something myself though.

If it were really beat up and I needed a project, I might think about polishing, clear coating the aluminum frame and rust bluing the steel slide. I wouldn't use it for an EDC after that though.

What ever you do, don't lose the rear sight blade. I have been trying to find a replacement for weeks.
 
I wouldn't refinish an EDC pistol over "little nicks here and there." Granted, I actually like a little honest wear on a gun, but even beyond that, an EDC is going to get a little scuffed. Holster wear is part of the deal. The only questions are how much and how fast.
 
Spats McGee said:
I wouldn't refinish an EDC pistol over "little nicks here and there." Granted, I actually like a little honest wear on a gun, but even beyond that, an EDC is going to get a little scuffed. Holster wear is part of the deal. The only questions are how much and how fast.
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I agree with that... a gun will wear.

However, I do strongly recommend finishes like Robar’s NP3 (prefer NP3 Plus) or CCR’s CPII. Might sound hypocritical, but I have battery acid sweat. My LCP rusted under a week of pocket carry (CT screws are also very prone to it). While oiling is a solution, it still didn’t work for me... plus gets messy if you have to do it very regularly. And even though I don’t run my pistols like that, those finishes slick up the areas which interact and need lubrication (I still grease/oil pistols, even if plated). Most of my refinished guns were done somewhat new... after I made sure it was good to go.

In regards to nicks, not as big of a concern to me. Only time it bothers me is when I don’t cause it. I had a .45 PX4 that got a gouge in the grip because of FedEx, which pissed me off. If I spend the money, I want to do it.
 
Interesting. I thought these refinishing products were better than what the manufacturers use, but I guess maybe they're not. The nicks and wear that's starting to show does bother me, but I guess that's just part of it with an EDC gun. I thought it was because the BT is a cheaper gun and that getting it refinished would take care of it. Guess I'll save my money and just get used to it. Thanks!
 
I'd refinish a gun as a retirement gift . . . to the gun.
A gun that is still in use will soon be a worn, refinished gun rather than a worn, original gun.

I had a welding repair done to a blued gun that resulted in some mottling from the heat and spot-reblue, so I did some dehorning and contouring, and will have it refinished, so that it has a finish.
Shipping alone, for a handgun, is about $100, so I'm looking for a local place to do the work.

Bluing, which seemed to be offered by every gunsmith 20-30 years ago, is now very hard to find, and the spray-on finishes have all but replaced it.

For a gun that is going to continue to see regular use, for a refinish I'd suggest hard chrome, if you like bright guns, or Ionbond, if you like dark.
Both finishes are extremely hard, wear resistant, and look good.
Unlike most other finishes, other than bluing, plating and Ionbond can be applied over polished surfaces, so you don't have to go for a matte, "tactical" look.
 
I've used Duracoat on 2 rifles, both turned out well. Not sure about durability for real use though. I take care of my guns, keep them in soft cases etc.





I've also reblued a surplus Hi Power clone using birchwood casey cold blue. It turned out ok but not perfect. It still looks like a worn military gun. I'd say the Duracoat finish looked more like a professionally done finish.




 
SonOfScubaDiver said:
Interesting. I thought these refinishing products were better than what the manufacturers use, but I guess maybe they're not. The nicks and wear that's starting to show does bother me, but I guess that's just part of it with an EDC gun. I thought it was because the BT is a cheaper gun and that getting it refinished would take care of it. Guess I'll save my money and just get used to it. Thanks!
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At least for something like NP3 or CPII... I don’t know of a finish that is better from a factory.

Cerakote is an ok finish, and some manufacturers apply it to their guns. But spray-on or bake-on finishes are prone to chips. Might not occur fast, but likely will occur with use. Look at car finishes... unless it sits in the garage, you are going to have chips.

A plating, like NP3, adds a layer. Can it be worn off? Yea... with A LOT of use. My 9mm PX4 shows some wear, but it isn’t worn down. It is similar to stainless... shiny areas where contact occurs, but still the original finish.

If I had a gun with a stock finish that chipped, but didn’t have to worry about rust... I’d say screw it. Nickel platings are pretty durable, but you can screw anything up with enough time running it.
 
I would group refinishing products as:

Basic blue and SS - These basically are not a finish....Bluing is a controlled oxidation....offers little wear or corrosion protection. Stainless is a material and is fairly corrosion resistant.

Parkerizing - Fairly good and holds oil well. Abrasion resistance is due to the surface finish and is just ok.

Spray and Bake coating- Interesting color. Good corrosion resistance, but wears poor.

Cerakote - it is a spray n bake, but abrasion resistance is better due to ceramic particles in coating.

Hard chrome and hard coating - hard chrome, DLC, duty treat, melonite....all hard, all durable, all corrosion resistant....some have high temp processes which may be bad for coated metal heat treat.
 
Meh.

Carry pistols, duty pistols, get wear on to them. As long as the wear isn't so bad as to increase corrosion to the point it diminishes operational readiness or weapons system integrity, I wouldn't pay it any mind.
 
Just about any refinish will cost you at least what the gun's worth.
The spray or dip coatings will wear, it's a given.
A good plating like NP3 or hard-chrome most likely will outlast your gun.

And again will cost you at least what the gun's worth, if not more.
Denis
 
"Carry pistols, duty pistols, get wear on to them. As long as the wear isn't so bad as to increase corrosion to the point it diminishes operational readiness or weapons system integrity, I wouldn't pay it any mind."

That, and a whole bottle of Cold Blue costs about ten dollars.
 
Here's what I'll tell you about refinishing-DON'T.
You will destroy the resale value of your gun and most refinishes don't hold up well. ....
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That's an interesting statement. Guns have 2 kinds of value, IMO. Value in use and value in collectibility.

With most Bersa's, collectibility is quite low. So here we have a guy who wants to improve the usability of his Bersa with a quality finish. Frankly, I prefer DLC. It would cost about $400 + shipping to have applied. It adds value to any gun it is applied to for use. No finish will add much more than 25% to the unfinished guns value. So,your Bersa would not be a great candidate, unless you just want a well finished Bersa. If so, go for it!

Cerakote is about a $150-$250 alternate....that might match your Bersa better.
 
I've gotten a few Durakote jobs on my guns, and they are better than the
bluing they replaced. OTOH, I have not put them thru the wear and tear
of EDC.

That Cold-Blue job on that Hi-Power looks great, Hun Shooter.
 
You CAN'T put a good refinish Rough Riders and Hi Points. They are zinc. All you can do is paint them.
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Who would want to? You really need to work on your sense of humor. It was a joke!
But they can be Cerakoted. Of course the only acceptable color for a High Point is DeWalt yellow and black.
 
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