So i called kimber about running aluminum cased .45 ammo..

vizsladog

New member
...and they said not to. I ran 100 rounds of federal aluminum case and it was perfect. Any idea what it might harm? I have googled and searched but found nothing
 
Can't imagine what kind of problem it could cause. I use it in my Colts, Springfield, and Baer without any issues whatsoever.
 
I've never used it in a Kimber or any other handgun, but when the boys want to just blast away with the .45 pistol caliber carbine, I've purchased the Federal brand and run it without issues.
Can't think of any issues it could cause so maybe asking Kimber is the best move.
 
You called Kimber and they didn't give you the answer you wanted to hear? Shoot it and find out for yourself. Make it a test and let us know. For me? I don't really care. I shoot aluminum cases, steel case in my AR, blistering hot magnums in my revolvers. I don't buy tools that need to be pampered.
 
I've used Blazer aluminum ammo in some of my 1911s without issue. I wouldn't rely on them for self-defense but for range plinking, they're fine.

Here's what the Kimber FAQ page says about ammo:
What type of ammunition do you recommend for your handguns?

We recommend using quality American-made ammunition. Choose from trusted names like Federal, Winchester or Remington because ammunition by these makers has proven to be of consistent high quality. Our function testing is done with Federal 230 grain FMJ.

+P ammo manufactured to SAAMI specs is fine to use as a defensive round or for occasional range use only. Our pistols are rated to handle +P ammo. However, we do not recommend a steady diet of them, as they are rough on the pistol and will accelerate the wear on the gun and may shorten the life of the recoil spring.

The use of reloaded or remanufactured ammunition may be dangerous, and any issues related to its usage are not covered by warranty.
http://www.kimberamerica.com/faq

I saw one poster on another forum suggest that aluminum cases might rupture easier in guns with unramped barrels (because the cartridge is not fully supported) but he didn't seem to have any real evidence to support that assertion.
 
I can't say anything about the federal brand of aluminum ammo, but I have tried the 38 Special Blazer in a Colt Python. Almost half of the casings were split when they were ejected. I found out later that this could cause damage to the chamber walls. Kimber may be thinking the same.
 
If you ask someone, most anyone, for permission to do anything, the default answer is almost always "No." If I tell you "no" and something goes wrong, you can't come back to me and tell me..."You said it was OK."

Hence the saying: "It's easier to ask for forgiveness, than for permission."
 
Ever look inside the little envelope that contains a fired case?

Quite often its a CCI Blazer aluminum case.;)



I can honestly say it has never been that for me. It's always been brass. I don't really have anything against aluminum, it's just rarely much cheaper than the cheapest brass I can find locally.
 
As long as the cases don't rupture they will do no harm. Actually aluminum may be softer than brass and cause less wear on things, but I guess it depends on the heat treat and overall hardness.

I have fired lots of 10mm CCI blazer aluminum in a glock 20 with no issues, and fired some on .45 from federal and CCI through my 1911 with zero issues. I guess the case being lighter could somehow change how the ejection works but it should not really effect anything
 
Personal opinion is don't run cheap stuff in a pistol, aluminum or steel. Save the aluminum for your revolver. give the steel stuff away or save it for a day when it's your only option. Just my opinion.
 
You called a gun maker, and they said not to.

Bet if you called the ammo maker, they would say "go right ahead!"

Here's the thing, Aluminium is NOT brass. Yes, of course, this sound like a no brainer, but its not just the "strength" of the case body (which is only what most people think of), but there is also the rim, and the friction.

Al "grips" the chamber differently from brass. (for that matter, so does steel).

In a manual repeater this matters little, but in a semi auto, it MIGHT make a difference. Also there is the matter of the strength of the case rim. Again, it USUALLY doesn't make a difference, especially with the relatively short cases used in most semi autos.

However, it is possible that it might make a difference, and Kimber is being prudent, I think.

Since I'm a dedicated reloader, I don't buy Blazer Al or other non reloadable ammo if I have a choice. I have shot some, got some .44Mag stuff on a trade deal, it worked FINE in my revolvers. I would NOT put it in my semi auto, I know better. :D

Blazer seems to work ok in short cases (9mm & 45) in semis, but long cases (.357) in my semis do not do so well. Rims tend to tear off (Coonan) I put this down to the difference in the friction of aluminum, the area involved (long case) and the very THIN case rim. No proof, just my theory, but it does fit observed behavior.

Kimber saying don't use it is their CYA. Nothing more, nor less.
 
One thing that matters to me, but hasn't been brought up yet:
Aluminum cases (even when coated) pick up dirt and grit a heckuva lot better than brass (or even steel).
That additional abrasive action will cause premature wear to parts of the firearm that come in contact with the case.


My personal opinion:
Until about March of last year, I hadn't fired Blazer Aluminum ammo since 1997 or 1998. I really hadn't had a reason to, but also didn't have the best of experiences when I used it last.
Last year, I gave some .38 Special a shot. 14 rounds is all that went through the revolver. Extraction went from difficult to "where's the hammer?" in no time. And the cases visibly scratched the chambers.

And, that's where it ends. I'm not putting any aluminum cases through my firearms, again.

dogtown tom said:
Ever look inside the little envelope that contains a fired case?
Quite often its a CCI Blazer aluminum case.
I have never seen an aluminum casing in the "exemplar" envelope.
Perhaps you are mistaken, and are confusing proof load casings with Blazer aluminum casings.
Proof load casings are tin coated (to differentiate them from other loads, and to aid extraction). They typically also have a red lacquered case head, but the coloring often flakes off after being fired.


I admit that there are some companies out there that do not proof test their firearms (or even do standard-pressure testing), and may be so cheap as to have used Blazer Aluminum ammunition for their "LE sample case" test fire.
But I have never seen such.
 
My guess is that perhaps it has previously caused running issues, such as feeding or extraction problems and so they've just taken to recommending against using it... Just my assumption...
 
My guess is that perhaps it has previously caused running issues, such as feeding or extraction problems and so they've just taken to recommending against using it... Just my assumption...
This is probably the case. I have a few CZs and the only ammo they have issues with ever is aluminum case ammo. I will get a failure to extract once in a while. If I shoot brass no problems.
 
I have shot it in my Glock23 .40 also in a Sig P227 .45 and in a Walther PPQ
9mm and a HK VP9 9mm. Have never had any problems with this Aluminum type Ammo.
 
When being lazy about reloading, I've used aluminum case ammo in just about every handgun of mine.
No noticeable problems.
It's quite often offered with rental guns.
It can't be too bad.
 
Stuck cases

Had an old police positive special which I traded off for a Colt 03. I stressed to the gal I traded with not to run aluminum case ammo in it.

Yup you guessed it, she brought it back to me wanting her 03 back. 5 stuck cases in the revolver. Uhh no, do you remember what I told you about aluminum cases? Remember I also told you not to use +P in that old revolver either. I warned her very sternly that +P may result in a lot worse than stuck cases.

I did fix it for her. I also polished the chambers a bit. Some folks just don't listen.
 
Back
Top