So confused. . . help me maintain my shotgun

G

grey_pilgrim

New member
Ok, so this is probably the first thread i've started here (i feel bad, its so mundane).

Originally, standard operating procedure for my Remmy 11-87 involved hoppes no. 9 (cleaning) and then hoppes oil (lubrication and protection), and if you can't tell, i got the hoppes cleaning kit.

Now, since my kit has been left at home, it has been borrowed hoppes and a silicone cloth. Maybe this is fine, but i've been looking into other things, and i'm so confused. I would like to maintain my sg better than just the silicone cloth (since i don't think it lubricates the action of my sg well).

So should i keep cleaning with hoppes and get rem oil, keep cleaning with hoppes and use the silicone cloth (until i get the hoppes oil back), or change systems and get an all-in-one like breakfree or eezox (which seem to preform the best). I'm so confused by the options, and everyone says something different (yes, i searched back through the old threads).


My question about the all in one cleaners (clp and eezox) is that they really don't seem all-in-one. That is, while they do some things well, they may not do the others (i'm thinking lubrication) well. The thing is, lubrication is my main issue, since my sg is decently maintained and stored in a safe.

Does CLP/eezox work well for CLP? Should i just stick with hoppes and remoil unless i decide to go duck hunting.

My gut is just to do hoppes/remoil, but i am so: :confused: :confused:
 
I personally prefer to use a CLP (Breakfree or G96).
This mainly beacause I am lazy but I also like the idea that it leaves a protective film behind and prevents corrosion whilst in storage.
I always fully dry out my gun before use and add a drop of lubrication to the action bars/bolt.
As far as cleaning goes, Breakfree can definitely do the job.
I usually give the gun a quick clean after firing and leave a decent coat of CLP on it. I leave it a couple of days and then give it a decent clean.
It gives it a chance to soak in and for the metal to sweat out the absorbed fouling.

But I believe the choice is up to you. You can either stick with your tried and true method or try something else new.

Hope this Helps.
 
I've found that FP-10 works so well for cleaning, lubricating, and preserving that it's generally the only product I use on my semi-auto pistols, rifles, shotguns, lever rifles, and revolvers. That said, cleaning the complex and tight spaces in Winchester's SX2 gas pistons has caused me to bring out the Gun Scrubber aerosol for cleaning the piston.
 
I like CLP. The real trick to CLP is to shake it well. This stuff separates and if you do not remix, it is not as effective as it could be.
I use CLP to clean my shotguns, including a final wipe-down. Finish with two drops of oil (your choice) on the action bars. Done.
Mike
 
Keep it simple.

Most actual problems we see occur in chambering and extracting.

Plastic shells combined with firing residue, hot/cold, makes the chamber gritty.
Just use a old aluminum rod, bronze brush with wisps of 0000 steel wool and run this in and out. Battery Drills expedite this. Then Blast with CRC Brakleen or similar.

Scothbrite pads - the finest grit works well and alleviate the concerns of steel wool rusting because someone did not remove all of it.

Take a part of cleaning rod and bend at an angle so you can do this without having to take apart gun if on the range for example. Just access thru breech.

Pipe Cleaners work on extractors, and gas ports.

Folks tend to clean and focus on what is not important - neglect the important areas.

Shells : We have some really crappy baseheads out there on shells today. We have always known to resize when reloading so shells would chamber and extract. Seems some new offerings 1) ain't to spec. 2) cheaper quality metals used expand in chambers making extraction difficult.

Add the MIM :mad: extractors some newer guns have -and problems occur. I suggest buying an extra bolt complete. If extractor breaks, put in new bolt, get back up and running.
Afterwards get a real steel extractor installed for replacment, and now you have a spare again.

Automatic Trans Fluid - Forever we have found Semis work best when lubed with this. I am going back 30 years with this tip and use.

Though I use syn oil often such as Havoline Full Synthetic, with no problems in semis, any firearm - I tend to favor ATF still.

RIG for externals, RIG +P for choke threads.

XF-7 that Maddog sells is suposed to be great. I have not tried it personally.

At lot of this we did forever - was real nice when Brister shared in his book and shared some new tips as well.
 
Here is my opinion...

..I make rather modest wages this time in my life..but have several high-value, vintage guns including my shotgun...I personally use any good grade gun oil...Hoppes, Outers, etc..and find them all satisfactory...I don't bother with trendy new type lubes as I don't think they are any better in reality...I also use a silicone gun & reel cloth to quickly polish and protect after handling..if I am not in a hurry then a little gun oil on a cloth...long term storage then use a good gun grease..this is basic stuff but why make it complicated...nobody is fussier about gun condition than me...
 
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