Snubbies

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meat

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Snubbies - Sp101

I've been looking at snubbies and shopping around some. I've really fallen in love w/ the Ruger Sp101. Seems like a well made little machine. Since I'll mainly be using this little guy for personal protection (things have been hairy around here lately), I really wanted a .357 snubbie. I'll probably use mostly .38 +p's in the gun, but I like the fact that it could double as a trail/hiking gun w/ the .357 round.

I was just curious about a few things. How much does the difference in the barrel length of the SP101 models affect the accuracy, the stopping power, and the concealability of the revolver? The 2 sizes I'm referring to are the 2 1/4" and the 3 1/16" barrel models. If the 3 1/16 inch does perform better in accuracy and ballistics, then I'd prefer it. I remember reading an article somewhere that showed the ballistics and accuracy difference between a 2 and 3 inch barrel and it showed that the difference was actually quite remarkable. But if the difference is minimal, I'd rather have the 2 1/4" because of the easier concealment. It seems like it's harder to find holsters for the 3 1/16" model because of this concealment reason (unless there are those that find the 3 1/16" model just as easy to conceal). Thanks for any input, especially w/ those that choose this weapon also.
 
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In answer to your questions:

1. I recently read an artical where chrono readings were taken on a particular 2" barrel revolver, using ammo from the same manufacturer in .38+p and .357 and bullet weights of 110, 125 & 158 grain. The difference between the .38+p and .357 of the same bullet weights was around 400 feet per second (about 40% better for the .357). The lighter the bullet, the faster in both .38+p and .357. The fastest .38+p (110gr) was in the 900's. The slowest .357 (158gr) was in the 1,100's. Again, from a 2" barrel. The general rule of thumb is hollowpoint expansion is iffy under 1,000 FPS (if that's a factor for you). So, there is a difference in power between .38 and .357 for the same barrel length. I happen to think a pretty big one. So I reserve .38's for practice or where I think I may need shoot in confined spaces (noise & penetration factors with .357's). I've heard it said that a .357 of a given bullet weight from a 2" barrel is no better than a .38+p of the same bullet weight from a 6" barrel. We are talking a 4" difference in barrel length here though. I doubt there would be a significant practical difference between a 2" or 3" barrel though.

2. Accuracy is more of an issue at longer ranges. In the typical defensive ranges (under 25 feet) I've found there is little practical difference between a 6" and 2" barrel (so certianly little with a 2" vs 3" barrel). Longer barrels add to the "pointability", sighting and general ability to acquire the target quickly (longer is generally better). Not so much the gun as the shooter in other words.

3. I personally don't see much "perseived" difference in muzzel flash, blast and kick between a 2" and 3" barrel (negatives most often associated with short barrel .357's). Naturally a heavier, larger frame and longer barreled gun is going to be less violent to shoot than a lighter, small framed short barreled one.

With the above said, my preferance is a 2.25" SP101 loaded with .357's (personal favorite is 125gr SJHP). I think the SP has the best balance of compact size, durability and weight of all the small frame .357's. I've also opted for the slightly larger Hogue grips for better handling and control. The extra 1" of barrel would be an added inconvenience for me for little practical benefit. In a 3" .357 I would consider a 3" S&W M-13/65 a better choice (especially for trail/hiking use). Slightly larger and heavier than a 3" SP101 - and one more round. If the intent is to carry .38's, I'd tend to go with a smaller & lighter "J" frame S&W or Taurus chambered for .38 only (for increased carry comfort and concealability).

Regarding holsters, the 2.25" SP will fit in many holsters for small frame S&W's or Taurus'. With a 3" SP you will likely need to go with a specially designed holster for that model, or cut the bottom out of one of the cheaper nylon styles for the barrel to stick out.
 
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The 3 inch barrel is worth up to 200 fps in .357 and 150fps in .38spl over a 2 inch. The difference in sight radius is remarkable in aimed fire over 30 feet. Less muzzle blast , and has better feel for instictive registry. 2 inch MAY have some advantages within arms length as it is harder to take away.:cool:
 
I own one of each, and I find the 3" barrel is good for close to 100 fps extra velocity (with full-power ammo.) compared to the 2". However, this is not necessarily to say that the 3" is "better" - your ammo. selection is very important here. You can put a Remington Golden Saber 125gr. JHP - their "medium velocity" .357 round - into the 3", and have a gun that is very comfortable to fire, with velocity in the 1150-1200 fps range. If you load the 2" gun with the standard-velocity Remington 125gr. JHP, you'll get more muzzle blast, flash and recoil, but muzzle velocity will be 1200+ fps. Same effect on the receiving end from either gun/round combination, IMO...

If you order a concealment holster for either model, just order it for the appropriate barrel length - this should be no problem for any reputable holster-maker. BTW, the shorter barrel is somewhat easier to conceal and to draw quickly from the holster: its shorter length means that the holster can ride higher on the hip, as the barrel will easily clear the lip of the holster, and make the draw as easy as a longer-barreled gun from a lower-slung holster.

If you're thinking about pocket holsters, no question but that the 2" barrel is much easier to carry. You can also get compact grips for it which "print" rather less than the factory grips. Try Hogue for a comfortable, thinner model (the rubber version, which I have, tends to be a bit "sticky", pulling on concealment clothing, but you can get the same grip in various woods - very attractive, BTW - if this would be a problem for you).

Also, a big advantage of the SP101 is the pinned front sight. Trijicon makes a tritium-insert front sight that can easily be fitted in place of the factory stock item. Very helpful in low-light situations.
 
There were also some great posts about snubbies and ammo in the past month or so in this forum if you have not read them.

Those posts and my experience with a 2 inch barreled 38 special are what made me order in a 2.25 ruger sp101. I already have the 3 inch version and like it a lot. 357 mag for both.

I won't compare the sights on the two since the stainless ruger is easy for me to sight while the blued det. special is tougher because I have not had it very long.

Once I get the shorter ruger I will learn what differences there are. But that will be after turkey day I expect.
 
The little 2 1/4" SP is as accurate as the 3"..the sight radius makes it easier to be more accurate...for concealment both are good but the short one hides in pockets if you find the right grip, better than the 3" model. Velocity is around 100 fps from the 3" with full house 125 gr loads over the short tube...the 100 FPS translates into quite a bit of energy.....shooting them is almost the same thing..the extra inch really doesnt reduce recoil or muzzle flip much...but thats ammo dependent also.....
Shoot well
 
Concealed carry in MD? Are you a freind of Col. Mitchell or AG Curran? Lots of Marylanders would like to know how you did it.

I own a 2 1/4" SP101 and love it. As others have pointed out accuracy is no different, but you have a reduction in power. I already owned a 4" .357 before I bought the SP101, so the choice was easy for me. If it's your only .357 I might suggest the 3" since it might be a better all round gun. Also, handguns w/o an integral locking system can't be shipped into the state after January 1st. I think that only leaves you with Taurus or S&W. Nothing aginst Tauri, but to me the new S&W's are politically incorrect. Of course, since 'integral lock' hasn't been defined yet, no handgun may qualify.
 
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