Snap caps. Make my own?

Pond James Pond

New member
My Ruger manual says that dry firing is fine for the Redhawk.
However, I was thinking of using snap-caps all the same: why strain the gun unecessarily?

Now, I don't know if they are available over here, but even so, I was thinking of making my own: a cartridge with a rubber surface over the primer.

Would a spent casing with some silicon auto gasket blobbed on it do the job?
 
Automotive silicone is thin and not very robust, so I doubt it would accomplish much. I think a chunk of pencil eraser might work in place of the primer. Of course the spent primer would probably work just as well.
 
snap caps are nothing... little pieces of metal.

Point is, have someone stateside mail you some. they might look nasty in an xray, but even if that happens they're literally just metal. I see no reason why they wouldn't pass through international shipping.
 
Your idea has been done b-4 and it works well for a short time, the rubber wears out from the impact of the firing pin. Factory snap-caps have a spring plunger that rebounds when they are struck by the firing pin. If you can get someone to ship you a set of the real item.
 
I made some by trimming rubber and gluing in the primer pocket. A lot work, but better than putting silicone in the primer pocket.
 
Make your own. Instead of silicone use a hot glue gun and fill the primer with it. When the glue wears, use a razor and scrape it out and replace with fresh glue. I also paint the base and bullets of my snap caps with my wife's read nail polish to identify them.
 
You can make your own but like others said, they won't last very long. For under $20 you can get a pack of AZooms that will last you forever, if you can manage not to loose them. I've had the same AZooms for about 10 years
 
I've had good luck using pencil erasers, trimmed to size then glued into the primer pocket...good luck...Rod
 
I also paint the base and bullets of my snap caps with my wife's read nail polish to identify them.
This is very important, let's not let it get lost in a sea of replies.

When you buy snap caps, they look a lot different than loaded, live ammunition.
When you make them, they look like live ammo.

You don't ever want to get in to a routine where you are dry-firing with ANYTHING that looks like live ammunition.

The human brain is an extremely powerful unit, but we don't want to push the limits of it's capability.

We train all our lives to check, check again and re-check to ensure a firearm isn't loaded. If you practice with rounds that look 99% real, you will be training your brain to dry-fire and handle firearms that appear loaded.

You can imagine where this may lead.

It makes sense to either purchase purpose-built snap caps, or go the extra mile to make your home made devices stand WAY out and look like anything in the world other than loaded ammo.
 
Quote:
I also paint the base and bullets of my snap caps with my wife's read nail polish to identify them.


This is very important, let's not let it get lost in a sea of replies.

Rest assured.

Duly noted and I had planned something of that nature. I'd also consider some indelible ink stripes down the side of the casing.

That, and the fact that I keep my ammo seperate from the guns, when stored and handling.

At the end of the day, if a shop sells the real deal, then I'll get them!
 
Factory snap-caps have a spring plunger that rebounds when they are struck by the firing pin.

Not all have that feature.

AZOOMS, aka dummy training rounds do NOT have a spring plunger, merely a piece of plastic. The red/clear plastic caps do have the spring, but their flanges tend top break after a few uses
 
I think a chunk of pencil eraser might work in place of the primer. Of course the spent primer would probably work just as well.

I've used small pieces of pencil eraser for years without encountering any problems. If they ever wear down or turn brittle, they're quick, cheap, and easy to replace. Spent priners don't work as well because they don't stop the primer after being hit repeatedly.
 
SW- you have just been lucky. The firing pin is not cushioned by the eraser. It simply pierces it, providing no benefit. There is no resistance.
 
Buy real snap caps, avoid confusing yourself with questionable alternatives, and be happy with the real thing. They don't cost that much and last a very long time. I have snap caps for most of my centerfire guns.
 
Bill D.,
I am sure that you have lots more experience than me, but my home made snap caps, both my first generation with eraser heads and my second generation with hot glue, have held up quite well. Same thing goes with the nail polish to identify them. I believe that my guns are too valuable to screw them up with something home made that doesn't work but these caps do work well. Have you tried some like this or is your opinion anecdotal based?

As far as being confused with the real thing, I have never put real red painted bullets in any pistol I own. My caps look too odd to ever confuse with the real mccoy.
 
I know that pencil erasers and hot glue are penetrated readily by firing pins. Unless they are covered by metal they can not possibly offer any resistance to a firing pin. You just haven't broken a firing pin-but it's not because of your snap caps.
 
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