Snap cap issue

B

BillyBeards

New member
So I bought snap caps for the first time today to use in my Glock 26 and I'm having an issue.
It seems that usually after the second round dry fired it tries to load two rounds after I manually eject the second round.
Does that make sense? Am I doing something wrong.
I want to make sure that I'm not doing something here to mess up my gun.

Thanks
 
You'll have to check the directions for the snap-caps, but I recall seeing one brand that said it was just for dry-firing, and although it would chamber just like live ammunition, there was no guarantee it would cycle through the action like live ammo.
 
Are you cycling the slide just to reset the trigger?

If so, you don't have to do that, just move the slide back, probably less than ¼" and the trigger will reset.

I don't normally push the slide back from the muzzle, but I've found it's the easiest and fastest way for me to do this for dry-firing, when I try to pull the slide from the rear I too often end up pulling the slide all the way back and the SnapCap ejects.

Did you get the Tiptons? I had the A-Zooms and stopped using them because they started mushrooming out at the case head:

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I have a picture here of the used A-Zoom on the left and a brand new A-Zoom on the right. You can see the white line of bare metal on the A-Zoom on the left - if you look closely you can also see that the circumferance of the case is wider where that metal band around the case is.

The case is starting to peel back and mushroom out and if I load the A-Zoom on the left it gets stuck in the chamber / can't cycle the slide.

This obviously doesn't happen with the Tiptons.
 
I have been running the full action of the slide merely because I did not know I could reset the trigger any other way. I have never had any issues with this handgun before these snap caps bought today for dry firing practice.
They are the A-Zooms and I did notice them getting a bit marred up a bit already.
I'll try only moving the slide back just enough to reset the trigger.

Thanks for all the info.

BB
 
I've been using A-Zoom snap caps since I bought my first gun. One set is in 45acp that I've cycled through 15 different handguns many times in the past 12 years. They're chewed up, but still feed and eject with no problems. I have other sets in .223, 12ga., 9mm, .380, 45lc and .38spl. and no problems with those either. What I've noticed is that they will cycle much easier in any handgun over live ammunition due to them being a tad shorter then a live round. The outer coating really makes for smooth feeding as well.

If your gun is having a problem cycling A-Zoom snap caps, there might be a problem with the gun itself.

I never cared for those plastic snap caps as they are lighter and more fragile then the aluminum type. With the A-Zooms, you can practice reloads since they function as something other then just a firing pin buffer.
 
I can't find the official recomendation from Glock to use SnapCaps, but I've heard from at least half a dozen Glock armorers that Glock puts it out in their classes now to use SnapCaps.

I'll search and try to find something from Glock directly about it...

The problem I had with A-Zooms occurred both with my G34 and my 17L, I haven't expereinced any problems with the guns, just the A-Zooms.

I can use the A-Zooms in my H&K P7M8 because once they chamber, they stay immobile for hundreds of trigger pulls.

With the Glock, they're being pullled out and shoved back in for each trigger pull.
 
Another option for clearing drills is ST Action Trainer Dummy Rounds:

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I don't dry-fire with these though because they have a recessed primer area, so it's like not having a SnapCap at all.

But they are good for everything else that doesn't involve the firing pin/striker.
 

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