(DISCLAIMER: FOR ENTERTAINMENT PURPOSES ONLY. DO NOT ATTEMPT unless you know what exactly you are doing)
In response to the curiousity displayed by some in the previous thread about sulfurless black powder I decide to start an official thread regarding this subject.
FROM WHAT I EXPERIENCE:
Sulfur acts with a primary role as ignitor in standard black powder, with a secondary role as the fuel. Like what other posters said, sulfur has a very low ignition point and helps greatly in flintlock ignition. That is where the advantage ends when we move into caplock and primer ignition.
POWER:
To obtain nearly the same level of power upon firing as you would normally get from Swiss FFFg or Pyrodex-P, the quantity of Saltpeter has to be adjusted to more than standard black powder. The sole backbone of black powder, saltpeter is what allows the fuel (charcoal) to burn confined by releasing virgin oxygen upon ignition. As a Chinese alchemist once said: "Sulfur is the Minister, while Saltpeter is the Prince". In this case, charcoal is the minister.
RESULTS:
Upon firing in the 1858 New Army/Beals with 33 grains FFFg equivalent and a Lee conical, sulfurless produces only a blue haze which disappears before the echo of the shot dissipates. This powder is EVEN LESS SMOKY than commercial smokeless powder. One question that I have not been able to fathom is that since European militaries HAVE discovered sulfurless black powder in the 1870s, almost a decade before the invention of nitrocellulose powder, why did so many nations bankrupt themselves by discarding their state-of-the-art black powder weaponry and purchasing nitro-proofed guns and ammunition, as smokeless technology had a very finicky beginning in the 1880s.
The fouling from firing this sulfurless powder is very minimal, although I never, ever leave guns uncleaned for more than 5 minutes after firing.
The highest velocity I have gotten with this powder is almost 1050 feet per second with a 200-grain conical. The ratio of ingredients is 85% saltpeter and 15% charcoal
Ignition is no issue at all, because not only I use a hot cap (Dynamit Nobel), I also charge the cone with a nipple charger for boosted heat and power.
QUALITY OF RAW MATERIALS:
I take extreme care to ensure that only the purest raw materials go into making this powder because unlike recreational shooters, my life, safety, and being able to get fresh meat depends on clean powder. The saltpeter that I use is medical grade Humco potassium nitrate, 100% pure. It is far more expensive than garden-grade nitrate but I normally do not fire a lot of rounds. Charcoal is made by vacuum-baking fresh willow twigs in my own homemade furnace. Willow charcoal, even when completely charred, is still springy like fresh willow and I love it so much!
RATIO:
Saltpeter: 85%
Charcoal: 15%
The ingredients are then ball milled for 3-4 hours, with half-dozen golf balls inside the mill drum as the grinding medium.
Afterwards, I mix the meal powder with water to form a thick paste that I call "Zhi-mah-wu", because it EXACTLY resembles the Chinese sweet bun-sweet sesame seed paste that I love so much , also called Zhi-mah-wu. When the paste solidifies into a solid ball, I run it through 1.5mm screens for 3Fg equivalent Pistol Powder.
WAIT: I AM NOT DONE YET
After the powder is completed, I put the 3Fg into a jam jar and mix it with some finely powdered graphite for even distribution, and preservation.
In response to the curiousity displayed by some in the previous thread about sulfurless black powder I decide to start an official thread regarding this subject.
FROM WHAT I EXPERIENCE:
Sulfur acts with a primary role as ignitor in standard black powder, with a secondary role as the fuel. Like what other posters said, sulfur has a very low ignition point and helps greatly in flintlock ignition. That is where the advantage ends when we move into caplock and primer ignition.
POWER:
To obtain nearly the same level of power upon firing as you would normally get from Swiss FFFg or Pyrodex-P, the quantity of Saltpeter has to be adjusted to more than standard black powder. The sole backbone of black powder, saltpeter is what allows the fuel (charcoal) to burn confined by releasing virgin oxygen upon ignition. As a Chinese alchemist once said: "Sulfur is the Minister, while Saltpeter is the Prince". In this case, charcoal is the minister.
RESULTS:
Upon firing in the 1858 New Army/Beals with 33 grains FFFg equivalent and a Lee conical, sulfurless produces only a blue haze which disappears before the echo of the shot dissipates. This powder is EVEN LESS SMOKY than commercial smokeless powder. One question that I have not been able to fathom is that since European militaries HAVE discovered sulfurless black powder in the 1870s, almost a decade before the invention of nitrocellulose powder, why did so many nations bankrupt themselves by discarding their state-of-the-art black powder weaponry and purchasing nitro-proofed guns and ammunition, as smokeless technology had a very finicky beginning in the 1880s.
The fouling from firing this sulfurless powder is very minimal, although I never, ever leave guns uncleaned for more than 5 minutes after firing.
The highest velocity I have gotten with this powder is almost 1050 feet per second with a 200-grain conical. The ratio of ingredients is 85% saltpeter and 15% charcoal
Ignition is no issue at all, because not only I use a hot cap (Dynamit Nobel), I also charge the cone with a nipple charger for boosted heat and power.
QUALITY OF RAW MATERIALS:
I take extreme care to ensure that only the purest raw materials go into making this powder because unlike recreational shooters, my life, safety, and being able to get fresh meat depends on clean powder. The saltpeter that I use is medical grade Humco potassium nitrate, 100% pure. It is far more expensive than garden-grade nitrate but I normally do not fire a lot of rounds. Charcoal is made by vacuum-baking fresh willow twigs in my own homemade furnace. Willow charcoal, even when completely charred, is still springy like fresh willow and I love it so much!
RATIO:
Saltpeter: 85%
Charcoal: 15%
The ingredients are then ball milled for 3-4 hours, with half-dozen golf balls inside the mill drum as the grinding medium.
Afterwards, I mix the meal powder with water to form a thick paste that I call "Zhi-mah-wu", because it EXACTLY resembles the Chinese sweet bun-sweet sesame seed paste that I love so much , also called Zhi-mah-wu. When the paste solidifies into a solid ball, I run it through 1.5mm screens for 3Fg equivalent Pistol Powder.
WAIT: I AM NOT DONE YET
After the powder is completed, I put the 3Fg into a jam jar and mix it with some finely powdered graphite for even distribution, and preservation.
