Smith & Wesson Nickel Model 27-2 Purchase & Care

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Last night at a small local California gunshop I stumbled onto a pristine S&W Model 27-2 with 6" barrel, nickel finish, target trigger and hammer, and adjustable sights. One owner, all original, pinned, recessed, no finish swirls, marks, scratches, or dings. It looks like it was never shot and if so, not much.

I couldn't resist its' stunning appeal, so I bought it ASAP. I even kept the shop owner way past his closing time to fill out the DROS paperwork. The price ($365) seemed steep to un-informed me, but I didn't really care as I was struct by the gun-loving lightening bolt. Cheap thrill for a 45 year-old, married male, eh?

After searching this forum, I now understand good 27s are hard to come by and the price may be fair, given that S&W is now offering for $670 a few left-over 27s made from factory inventory parts. I'm elated with my purchase nonetheless, and hope to keep it in its' current condition for a long, long time to enjoy its aesthetic appeal. I'll probably not shoot it very much if I can resist, as I've had a 6" barrel Model 586 for 17 years now that will continue to be my primary target shooter.

What's the very best care and feeding of this beauty? I know Hoppes #9 is strictly forbidden on the nickel finish. Is Breakfree CLP or MilTec 1 the best cleaner/lube? Does the nickel finish require a thin coat in storage for preservation?

Any and all comments are greatly appreciated.
 
You got a GEM. One of the finest revolvers EVER made and an older one to boot and at a very fair price.
As for cleaning, There are products safe for nickel finishes. One is Firepower FP-10 which is good for removing metal lead fowling as well. Easy to find and one bottle seems to last forever. I'm jealous.
 
I had a Model 29 just like you describe and I let it go! I'm drooling! :)

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I raised my hand to eye level, like pointing a finger, and fired. Wild Bill Hickok
If you have to shoot a man, shoot him in the guts... it'll paralyze his brain and arm and the fight is all but over Wild Bill Hickok
45 ACP: Give 'em a new navel! BigG

It is error alone that needs government support; truth can stand by itself. Tom Jefferson
When you attempt to rationalize two inconsistent positions, you risk drowning as your own sewage backs up. BigG
 
Great price, great gun!
In addition to using solvents that are safe for nickel, it makes alot of sense to apply Flitz carnuba wax or other wax product to the gun after cleaning, or at the very least wipe it all over with an oily rag.
Nickel goes to hell when moisture finds its way into the microscopic cracks present on EVERY nickeled gun, regardless of its age.
A guy that runs an industrial plating company told me that the oil would help keep the moisture out, but a very thin wax film would last longer.
FWIW, -Kframe
 
M3bullet.
ou made an oustanding buy and you have a superb revolver. As to feeding it, I would recommend using 125 grain Jacketed hollow poins for self defense and 158 grain bukkets for hunting. Also remember, a .357 Magnum is probably the most versitile revolvers there is. You can fire any .38 Special cartridge from target wadcutters to +P as well as any .357 Magnum loads. For twenty years my favorite modern revolver h as been a 5 inch S&W N frame .357 Magnum and I will never part with it.
Good kuck and good shooting,
Hard Ball
 
Kframe, thanks for your input, most helpful.

I'm aware of an automobile "Blitz" carnuba wax by One Grand Products, Ventura, CA. I have some and it works great on new car clear coat finishes. I get it on the web at http://www.carcareonline.com. Is perhaps this the one you mention, or is Flitz another brand?

Thanks again for your comments.

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Kframe:
Great price, great gun!
In addition to using solvents that are safe for nickel, it makes alot of sense to apply Flitz carnuba wax or other wax product to the gun after cleaning, or at the very least wipe it all over with an oily rag.
Nickel goes to hell when moisture finds its way into the microscopic cracks present on EVERY nickeled gun, regardless of its age.
A guy that runs an industrial plating company told me that the oil would help keep the moisture out, but a very thin wax film would last longer.
FWIW, -Kframe[/quote]
 
Hey again, no, I think that Blitz auto polish is something different. Odds are, it has some abrasives in it to remove paint oxidation and would likely be hard on a gun finish.
Here's Flitz's site: http://www.flitz.com/Gunandriflewax.htm
In addition to my nickeled handguns, I put a light coat on any gun before going out hunting or whereever it may get moist with dew, rain, snow, etc.
So far, no problems!
:) -Kframe

[This message has been edited by Kframe (edited February 02, 2000).]
 
Hello, Congratulations on your new purchase.
As other's have said; you got a very fine
firearm, at an unbelieveable price. I'm sure
you will enjoy it very much. I just recently
bought a S&W 28 in pristine condition. There's something about those Smith &b Wesson
N-frame revolver's? :eek:

Happy Handguning,
Ala Dan, N.R.A. Life Member
 
what a deal,probably cost that much when it was sold new. Just love slick N frame action,nothing can beat it in my opinion :)Enjoy :)
 
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by radom:
what a deal,probably cost that much when it was sold new. Just love slick N frame action,nothing can beat it in my opinion :)Enjoy :)[/quote]

Radom, thanks, I appreciate your comments.

Unfortunately, I'm in the CA 10-day waiting period and it'll be a week from tomorrow before I can experience the action with live loads. I'm anxious to compare the performance with my 17-year old 586.
 
Want to relate my recent experience with nickel finish care on my recent S&W Model 27 purchase.

I called S&W customer service and the rep seemed very knowledgeable regarding S&W's nickel finishes. He informed me that any of the finer metal polishes work well to remove any discoloration, stains, etc. and then follow up with your favorite commercially available preservatives. He likened it to caring for fine silverware. He emphasized to not use any Hoppes #9 or copper removal solvents. He was definitely a proponent of nickel finishes and talked of the durability and long term beauty of well maintained nickel.

So, I gave it a go. I have a new jar of Mothers Mag and Aluminum Polish which worked perfectly. It removed all the brownish powder stains around the cylinder and barrel, although there wasn't much to begin with. A couple of patches through the barrel and cylinder with the M&A polish removed all residual powder. Followed it all up with a good cleaning using EEZOX and the appearance is perfect ... couldn't be happer!
 
I traded a new in the box Model 27 blue 4" back in 1984 for a Redhawk .357 5 1/2 inch stainless. I had a Model 28, which I still own, along with a 686 2.5' bbl, a model 66 2.5" bbl, several Rugers and assorted other Smith .357's, but I still miss that model 27 that I got rid of all those years ago, it sure was a beauty. You just gotta love that checkering on the top strap and barrel rib, it just reeks of quality. :)

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SUPPORT YOUR LOCAL POLICE, KEEP THEM INDEPENDENT.
 
7th Fleet:

I'm quickly coming to agree with your conclusions regarding the Model 27. I shot mine for the first time last evening and I couldn't believe how much smoother the 27's target trigger action is compared to my 17 year-old model 586. Pure (& dumb) luck got me into this model and I am beginning to see why it is "considered the Cadillac of .357 magnums" per Chuck Taylor, Mr. 45ACP, of all people. I'd like to compare the way it shoots to the Colt Python one day.
 
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