Smith&Wesson model 60

E

edfrompa

New member
I have a 3"model 60, it is a tack driver at 7yds . The question I ask is this. Shooting single action the hammer pull is pretty hefty. Should I replace the hammer springs?? Or should I get the trigger parts honed smooth? Or both? Or should I just leave alone and let it break in as I use it. Yes it is a new firearm.
Thanks for any suggestions.
 
On smaller revolvers, because of size difference, there is less of a mechanical advantage in the double action mode. Yes the action can be smoothed so it appears to be lighter but be very careful with the springs, you can wind up with a malfunction gun. Me, I would leave it be for a few hundred rounds
 
As I understand it, replacing the hammer springs might affect the double action pull but shouldn't do anything to affect the single action pull. That is all in the engagement seer. I agree with Rjay - don't do anything yet. Put at least 3 boxes through it shooting double action only. See how the trigger is affected by a little wear before you go throwing gunsmith money at it.
 
Could you define "hefty" in terms of pounds? Most S&W revolvers will run about a three pound pull in single action. Anything much more would lead me to think something is wrong, though I couldn't tell what without having the gun in my hands. I don't know what force would be required to cock the hammer, but also it should not be significantly more than other S&W revolvers.

Jim
 
Hard to cock back, my son seems that it is ok. I'm 72 not 36, so that being said it is hard for me to cock it back.
 
a 3"model 60, it is a tack driver at 7yds
Click to expand...
You are shooting at the default "combat" distance. If you are simulating/practicing combat/self-defense, you should be shooting your double-action, as a double-action. Therefore, the effort it takes to cock it to single-action should be of little concern.
 
There seems to be some confusion, since you're getting a lot of opinions with regard to double action..
Do you have complaint about the double action or the single action trigger effort?
If it's about the single action, are you doing it one handed with the strong hand thumb - or with two hands using the support hand thumb?
 
Just the single action, hey you fellows have me convinced not to see a gunsmith. I have to practice more. And use the double action a lot more then I do.i appreciate all of your input. This is what the fireingline forum is all about. Again thank you.
 
Squeeze a tennis ball 15 minutes a day for 3 or 4 months and you'll think a gunsmith got his hands on it. BTW, my wife wanted that gun but never could hit with it because of the DA trigger. Got her a Ruger LCR in 38 spec. GTG, now. Now I have the Smith. Nice-a gun.

edit: my error, I also was thinking DA. The hammer spur on our M60 isn't what you would call substantial. That could be a contributing factor to your problem. Come to think of it, the tennis ball trick might help that, too!
 
Last edited:
As I read the OP's post . . he is talking about "cocking" the hammer is hard when shooting in single action . . . i.e. pulling the hammer back to cock the revolver . . . not "trigger pull" in SA or DA.

I don't have experience with the Model 60 but I do with Model 36s - snub and 3". Reading your next post (OP), I would think that the problem is probably due to "older hands". No criticism intended . . . I'm older as well and as we age, so do our hands and hand muscles.

I wouldn't do anything to it . . . use it and over time, it may get a little easier to cock back. . . . both the working parts will "seat in" over time as well as your hand/thumb muscles should get stronger. As far as shooting . . you obviously are shooting well in SA as you say it is a "tack driver" at 7 yards.

Shooting in SA is fine for "range shooting" and punching paper for fun. However, if you are going to use this firearm as a SD handgun . . . practice in DA as well. In a SD situation . . you aren't going to have time to cock and fire that handgun in SA . . . you'll be shooting in DA and more than likely, multiple rounds in a matter of several seconds . . . I doubt that you'd' be able to accomplish that in SA only.

Good luck to you and I'm sure over time, it will get easier for you. I have a friend who is 82 - he went out and bought a S & W .380 Bodyguard because it felt good in his hands. However, at the range, he experienced nothing but problems in "racking it" as he just didn't have the strength in his arthritic hands. He hasn't given up yet on it but I still keep suggesting that he get himself a DA revolver such as a J frame or a Ruger LCR and learn to shoot it in DA. He'd do much better with a wheel gun than his Bodyguard 380 as i don't think he has the strength or reaction time to use it in a SD situation.
 
Thank you, you hit the nail on the head!! Older hands older muscles I hate to admit that but it is all true. Cocking back the hammer was quite a chore last week,
I couldn't believe it. Semi auto was a problem racking the slide, that is why I went with Smith. I fired twenty rounds and I thought the gun was the problem.
Nope!! It's me. Thanks again, you saved me a ton of money.
 
Now i'm going to help you spend a ton of money.

The J-frames work with a coil spring to power the hammer. You can get a lighter spring to make shooting and cocking easier but it will never be as smooth and light as a larger K-frame or others with the flat main spring for power.

If this is a house gun then you don't need a hide out snubby. Get a bigger gun and take it easy on your hands.

It will smooth out a little shooting it but not as much as a good trigger job and spring replacement.

I have 4 J-frame guns and none have really light trigger actions. On the other hand I have an unfired 28-2 Highway Patrolman that is so light and smooth it has to be felt to be believed. And thats with no break in at all.
 
I'm 68 now and understand the hand strength problems of aging. In your case, the tennis ball hand work out will help with cocking the revolver in SA mode. In my 20's I used that same technique to build up a very firm grip to help with 1911 recoil....it worked very well indeed.

If you're concerned with the weight of the SA trigger pull, that's something else entirely. With a new gun, and S&W's are no exception, a good bit of dry-firing will definitely smooth up the trigger pulls...and coincidentally, help with your hand strength. I own a pair of M60 Smiths that were each treated to a cpl evening's of dry firing while watching TV with my wife (drives her to distraction...but that's another story).

Both DA and SA should be dry-fired, and I'd suggest using snap caps or spent cartridges to cushion the firing pin fall. Another practice that I've used is to add add'l force to the hammer fall by pushing hard against it, forward, as I pull the trigger in dry-fire. This seems to 'wear-in' the engaging surfaces of the trigger and sear and shortens the time required to get a smoother trigger pull. It's really a benefit for the rare Smith that has a 'gritty' creep in SA mode.

HTH's Rod
 
Well, it looks like the OP got some clarity on his original question, but since the issue of SA vs DA got raised, I'll offer this: If this is a SD revolver (and since it's a j-frame, I'm guessing it is), learn to shoot it double action.

For one thing, as mentioned, SA is slow, and the video g.willikers just posted doesn't do anything to change my mind about that. The lady in the video, presumably very proficient with a SA revolver, gets off 1 round in about the time it takes to get several DA hits. Yeah, I know good Cowboy Action shooters go quite a bit faster, but they are highly skilled and generally shoot low-powered loads from tuned guns. The average Joe shooting defense loads from a J-frame ain't the same thing and doesn't compare.

Secondly, with no external safety and a light SA trigger pull, cocking the hammer in a high-stress situation is seriously risking a negligent discharge. Very bad mojo. Remember, you're responsible for every round that leaves that gun. An errant round that hits at the wrong time or place isn't excusable just because you were in a defense situation. At best, it'll just put a hole where you didn't intend. At worst, someone you love dies and/or you're now in legal perdition.

In a stressful situation, you'll do what you've trained yourself to do. If you mostly shoot SA at the range, that's what you'll likely do in a high-stress situation. If your primary interest is self-defense, DA must become a habit to the point that it's automatic.
 
^^^^
No argument there, at all.
The double action design came about for a good reason.
That's not to say that choosing the single action option can't still have a place in the shootists' skill bag, though.
And knowing how to do it well could be important.
 
I'm 70 years old, and have owned a Model 60-10 for many years so I thought I'd add my opinion. At this time I use my mod 60 as a field gun, kind of like a kit gun. I have always thought if my 1911s get too hard to operate as I get older, I would make my mod 60 my carry gun. At this time my mod 60 is very easy to cock and shoot double action.

My advice is to keep shooting your gun, and it should loosen up in time. If it doesn't get easier to cock, take it to a competent S&W gunsmith, and ask him to lighten the hammer pull. Hopefully by practicing a lot it will loosen the pull and improve your muscle strength at the same time.

Good luck
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top