Smith & wesson Model 36 problem...need direction

Z

Zathras

New member
I bought a used smith & wesson model 36 snubby, because I traded my other one for a colt detective. I took it to the range, and after about 2 cylinders, it failed to revolve. in addition, the trigger locked frozen to the back of the trigger guard. I took it to a smith, and he changed the rebound spring..I picked it up brought it back to the range again, and after 2 cylinders, the same things happened..failed to revolve, and the trigger locked...any of you veterans have any idea on what this could be? I brought it back to the smith, he fired it , and it didn't happen.. hes puzzled..maybe the thing just doesn't like me....Thanks in advance..I now regret trading my earlier 36..it shot like a champ.


Z
 
I've had very good results, after returning used S&W's to their Service Dept for repairs - so far costing me the bubble, except for shipping to them.

Many times, though, if a S&W was bought through an FFL, THEY can send it in for you...............................;)



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It's a timing issue... the hammer or trigger could have been replaced at some point, and fitting hasn't been properly done.

The trigger, when you fire double-action, has to engage a spur on the hammer to move it back... this in turn works everything else that rotates the cylinder.

If the trigger is coming back, and hammer is staying forward... this is what's most likely happening--the trigger is not catching the hammer engagement.

I broke a firing pin on an old model 10 Smith once and I put a gun-show used parts vendor hammer in it (hammer had the firing pin riveted in it)... then because of ill-fit, my revolver did what yours is doing.

I think I ended up getting another trigger and making it work that way.

Just hang on to the revolver until you get it fixed. Lots of folks would trade it off, and someone's life might end up depending on that gun at some point.

Should be an easy fix, have your gunsmith look at the hammer and trigger fitting once again...

It will require a new part, most likely, as the ledge engagements in question are too short, rather than too long. :o

Dan
 
One thing to check when a revolver hangs up after 10 or so shots is the barrel/cylinder gap. If it is too tight, when the cylinder expands lengthwise from heat, it won't turn. That will not normally cause the trigger to hang up, but it could. If you just let the gun cool after it hangs up, will it go back to normal by itself?

(That problem can drive folks nuts, because the trouble is self-correcting; by the time a gunsmith looks at the problem, there is no problem.)

Jim
 
that very well could be, James. The trigger was still frozen at the rear of the trigger guard when I got in the car to get it back to the gunsmith. by the time I got to him, the trigger had already sprang back by itself. It's probably Id say , about 20 years old at least...I'm going to send it back to Smith and wesson through my FFL shop.the issue is that the hammer fires, but the cylinder does not rotate a few times, but then it does..who knows?..Smith and wesson probably will know.

Thanks,
Z
 
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Thanks, Dan..however, I'm still wondering why the trigger would freeze locked to the rear of the trigger guard?? my other model 36 never had this issue at all.
 
I dropped it off at my FFL dealer, and will be on its way to Smith & Wesson tomorrow. He tells me its still guaranteed, even as old as it is..so They should be able to fix it.
 
Zathras, when you get it back, please get back on here and let us know what the problem was. Inquiring minds want to know. :D

Walter
 
S&W might or might not indicate what the problem was after they fix it.

Well, my thinking was that if the cylinder did hang up due to heat expansion of the cylinder, the hand might be hanging on the ratchet for the same reason. If the ratchet tooth expands, a tightly fitted hand might not have enough room to drop down so the trigger would not return.

Of course, I could be all wet, but I have seen several cases of revolvers that hung up after firing 10-20 rounds, then were fine when they cooled down; the problem was always the b/c gap. (Most folks get up tight about too great a gap; few consider that too little a gap might be bad also. FWIW, I consider .007-.008" just about right.)

Jim
 
Long distance, sight unseen diagnoses aren't worth the paper they are printed on. That said, I'm not using any paper:

Cylinder hang up should not cause the trigger to dwell back on its own. You can demonstrate this on a revolver that is functioning properly: after confirming revolver is unloaded, pull DA halfway, then using left hand grab the cylinder to prevent it from turning further and release the trigger. It should move freely forward (as the hammer comes forward as well).

My guess is that the rebound slide is hanging up, for some reason. This revolver needs to be inspected by someone who knows the S&W DA lockwork.
 
I would have done a detail strip and clean then lubrication. The lockwork sounded dry to me. I'm sure that the factory will get it straightened out.
 
I took it to a gunsmith not once, but twice, and he could not figure it out..So to me, its high time the manufacturer took a crack at it. Once I get it back, I will post the results..In any case, even with the holidays in the way, I should have it back sometime next month..Smith & wesson's customer service is nowhere near as horribly lousy as Colts is, and I speak from experience.

Z
 
UPDATE

The gunshop didnt get a chance to ship out my 36. I took it back, and traded it to another gunshop for a smith & wesson model 637. I made him aware of the problem, and he said he had another cylinder he would swap out, and play around with it. It just left a bad taste with me, so I feel I'm better off with the 637.

Z
 
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