I have had a Smith & Wesson Model 10 snub nose for many years. It is stamped Smith & Wesson on the left side of barrel, and .38 S.&W. SPL on the right side. It has the official S & W logo below the cylinder release on the left side and is marked on the right front Made In USA, Springfield, Mass. The S/N is on the butt and is 451227. I would like to obtain an owner's manual for the gun, as well as, know the date of manufacture. Also, current market value would be appreciated (conditon 8 out of 10). Can anyone help?
Smith & Wesson Model 10 Snub Nose
- Thread starter egraypitt
- Start date
carguychris
New member
Does the serial number have an alphabetical prefix, and is the gun actually stamped "MOD 10-x" (where "x" is a single-digit number) inside the cylinder yoke cut?
If the gun is marked with the model number, it should have a "C" or "D" prefix before the 6-digit number; this prefix is considered part of the serial and is essential to correctly verifying the age. No-prefix, V-prefix, S-prefix, and low C-prefix guns should not be model number stamped. (FWIW V-prefix guns may have the "V" on the opposite side of the lanyard loop hole or lanyard loop plug.)
Are you looking for a period-correct manual or simply ANY manual? The "Revolvers - Modern Style" PDF manual on the S&W website is adequate if you don't care about the manual's provenance.
Re: value, please post pictures- it's hard to accurately judge condition based on a description, and these guns often have modifications or refinishing that affects the collector value.
If the gun is marked with the model number, it should have a "C" or "D" prefix before the 6-digit number; this prefix is considered part of the serial and is essential to correctly verifying the age. No-prefix, V-prefix, S-prefix, and low C-prefix guns should not be model number stamped. (FWIW V-prefix guns may have the "V" on the opposite side of the lanyard loop hole or lanyard loop plug.)
Are you looking for a period-correct manual or simply ANY manual? The "Revolvers - Modern Style" PDF manual on the S&W website is adequate if you don't care about the manual's provenance.
Re: value, please post pictures- it's hard to accurately judge condition based on a description, and these guns often have modifications or refinishing that affects the collector value.
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http://www.smith-wesson.com/wcsstore/SmWesson2/upload/other/S&W_Revolver_Manual_01-30-2011.pdf
An 80% gun is not going to have great value. But if you find someone that just really really wants a snubbie you might get $400. Otherwise $250 or less.
An 80% gun is not going to have great value. But if you find someone that just really really wants a snubbie you might get $400. Otherwise $250 or less.
In my area the 80% model will probably be $400 for a 2" Snub. In very clean condition more like $450 to $500 Retail.
In my area Model 10 and 15 Snubs are not on the shelf very often.
I put $600 in a very likely unfired 15 Snub a while back with no box or papers. That was probably too much money for it, however how often do you come across a new 15 Snub that is 30+ years old.
Bob
In my area Model 10 and 15 Snubs are not on the shelf very often.
I put $600 in a very likely unfired 15 Snub a while back with no box or papers. That was probably too much money for it, however how often do you come across a new 15 Snub that is 30+ years old.
Bob
Mike Irwin
Staff
How about a picture?
I don't have my guides in front of me right now, but a snub in that serial number range would make it a pretty early snub.
I don't have my guides in front of me right now, but a snub in that serial number range would make it a pretty early snub.
carguychris
New member
^^^ Mike: those are my thoughts exactly.
A no-prefix or V-prefix snubbie could be a legitimately rare and valuable gun IF it hasn't been refinished and/or poorly modified... and that's a big IF.
A C-prefix gun could still be an uncommon and interesting variant if it has a mix of earlier and later features, which is frequent in the low-to-mid C-series range, but value is not likely to be particularly high.
A D-prefix gun is nothing special, although they will usually sell for a slight premium over equal 4"-5"-6" guns in areas where CCW is popular.
A no-prefix or V-prefix snubbie could be a legitimately rare and valuable gun IF it hasn't been refinished and/or poorly modified... and that's a big IF.
A C-prefix gun could still be an uncommon and interesting variant if it has a mix of earlier and later features, which is frequent in the low-to-mid C-series range, but value is not likely to be particularly high.
A D-prefix gun is nothing special, although they will usually sell for a slight premium over equal 4"-5"-6" guns in areas where CCW is popular.
Mike Irwin
Staff
I'm just wondering if it has a barrel lug for the ejector rod...
carguychris
New member
Ditto, but the OP's statement that the barrel rollmark reads .38 S&W SPL.- rather than .38 S&W SPECIAL CTG. or .38 S&W CTG.- suggests that the barrel is 2" original factory length.
Of course, all we can do is assume, considering that the OP hasn't checked back in yet...
Mike Irwin
Staff
"Ditto, but the OP's statement that the barrel rollmark reads .38 S&W SPL."
That's actually a problem, I think.
Original Model of 1905 Fourth Change snubs should have the barrel marked ".38 Special CTG" on the right as the pre-war marking.
A 400K range serial number would put it in the early 1920, I would think.
That's actually a problem, I think.
Original Model of 1905 Fourth Change snubs should have the barrel marked ".38 Special CTG" on the right as the pre-war marking.
A 400K range serial number would put it in the early 1920, I would think.
Feeling Stupid About Questions On S&W Model 10!
All your posts were fantastic. I'm not a gun novice but certainly not an expert like you fellows. I had identified my S&W .38 SPL as a Model 10 by matching it to a picture. I assumed the Model would be on the exterior of the gun, but after reading your posts I popped open the cylinder and gazamm, there is was...Mod 36. The cylinder support was stamped with the number 69982. When I looked it up, it was referred to as a "square butt" .38 SPL.
The number 451227, which I gave in my original post, was stamped on this square butt. After examining the number with a magnifying glass, it's possible there is a dash between the 5 & 1 (45-1227). Talking about butt's, I kind of feel like one now. So with this new and correct Model number and additional 6 numbers, I still have the same requests. I would like to have a manual for this gun and the date of manufacture. I apologize for causing all the trouble and will try and be more thorough in the future. Thank you all very much for you good info on bad information.
All your posts were fantastic. I'm not a gun novice but certainly not an expert like you fellows. I had identified my S&W .38 SPL as a Model 10 by matching it to a picture. I assumed the Model would be on the exterior of the gun, but after reading your posts I popped open the cylinder and gazamm, there is was...Mod 36. The cylinder support was stamped with the number 69982. When I looked it up, it was referred to as a "square butt" .38 SPL.
The number 451227, which I gave in my original post, was stamped on this square butt. After examining the number with a magnifying glass, it's possible there is a dash between the 5 & 1 (45-1227). Talking about butt's, I kind of feel like one now. So with this new and correct Model number and additional 6 numbers, I still have the same requests. I would like to have a manual for this gun and the date of manufacture. I apologize for causing all the trouble and will try and be more thorough in the future. Thank you all very much for you good info on bad information.
If it reads Mod 36 it is not a Model 10, it is a early J frame , Model 36, Chiefs Special. Should have 5 holes in the cylinder, Your serial number dates it to 1963-1969, I would guess 1964 or 1965. The number on the cylinder support is a assembly number and means nothing outside the factory. If you go to the S&W site, I believe you can get a manual, or Google Steves Pages and download one.Thanks to RJAY
Ron,
Thank you so much for the information you provided. Sorry for my mixup between Model 10 and Model 36. I was able to download and print the 4-page manual from Steves, and I will consider the manufacture date to be either 1964 or 1965. Your help was invaluable.
Ron,
Thank you so much for the information you provided. Sorry for my mixup between Model 10 and Model 36. I was able to download and print the 4-page manual from Steves, and I will consider the manufacture date to be either 1964 or 1965. Your help was invaluable.