Smith & Wesson I-frame 32-20 hand ejector
- Thread starter drwolf
- Start date
carguychris
New member
First of all, if it's marked ".32 LONG", it's chambered in .32 S&W Long rather than .32-20 WCF aka .32-20 Winchester. The .32-20 Hand Ejector was built on the larger K frame rather than the compact I frame, and the barrel was marked ".32 WINCHESTER CTG.", ".32 WIN. CTG.", or ".32 W.C.F. CTG." depending on when the revolver was made.
If the gun is correctly identified as a .32 Long I frame, its serial number reveals it to be a .32 Hand Ejector Model of 1905, 5th Change.
I suspect your gun actually has a 3-1/4" barrel; revolver barrels are measured to the cylinder face, not to the barrel-frame interface. Novices commonly measure them incorrectly and under-report S&W barrel lengths by ~3/4".
2-1/2" was not a standard length; if it's truly this long measured to the cylinder face, it's likely that the barrel has been cut.
This gun most likely came with black gutta percha (hard rubber) checkered grips with molded S&W logos. It might have come with checkered walnut stocks with a convex circular area at the top, but this was not common on pre-1917 I frames. The top of the wood stocks would be tapered, not flared like the commonplace postwar "Magna" stocks.
The hard rubber stocks are difficult to find in good condition because they tend to disintegrate during removal from the gun; however, sets are out there if you watch GB long enough. IIRC S&W offered genuine mother-of-pearl stocks as a factory special-order item during this time period, but genuine factory MOP stocks in good condition sell in the upper 3-figure range- more than most .32 Long I frames themselves will fetch. 
If you're not looking for historically accurate replacements, this gun will accept any round-butt grips or stocks intended for the "short" grip frame used on I and J frames until 1952. Later I or J frame grips can be physically mounted on the gun, but they will overhang the butt by ~1/4".
If the gun is correctly identified as a .32 Long I frame, its serial number reveals it to be a .32 Hand Ejector Model of 1905, 5th Change.
I suspect your gun actually has a 3-1/4" barrel; revolver barrels are measured to the cylinder face, not to the barrel-frame interface. Novices commonly measure them incorrectly and under-report S&W barrel lengths by ~3/4".
2-1/2" was not a standard length; if it's truly this long measured to the cylinder face, it's likely that the barrel has been cut.This gun most likely came with black gutta percha (hard rubber) checkered grips with molded S&W logos. It might have come with checkered walnut stocks with a convex circular area at the top, but this was not common on pre-1917 I frames. The top of the wood stocks would be tapered, not flared like the commonplace postwar "Magna" stocks.
The hard rubber stocks are difficult to find in good condition because they tend to disintegrate during removal from the gun; however, sets are out there if you watch GB long enough.
IIRC S&W offered genuine mother-of-pearl stocks as a factory special-order item during this time period, but genuine factory MOP stocks in good condition sell in the upper 3-figure range- more than most .32 Long I frames themselves will fetch. If you're not looking for historically accurate replacements, this gun will accept any round-butt grips or stocks intended for the "short" grip frame used on I and J frames until 1952. Later I or J frame grips can be physically mounted on the gun, but they will overhang the butt by ~1/4".
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carguychris
New member
Madatory safety notice!
Almost forgot this!
Although all .32 Hand Ejectors have rebounding hammers, guns made prior to the introduction of the Third Model (serial #263001 and up) lack a positive hammer block. When the trigger is fully forward, hammer movement is normally blocked by a hump on the top of the rebound slide; however, if the gun is dropped hard enough on the hammer, the impact may shear off the hammer pivot pin and allow the firing pin to move forwards. This gun should ALWAYS be carried "five up" with an empty chamber under the hammer. Like an old Colt SAA, you should NOT load all six chambers unless you intend to empty all of them right away!
Almost forgot this!
Although all .32 Hand Ejectors have rebounding hammers, guns made prior to the introduction of the Third Model (serial #263001 and up) lack a positive hammer block. When the trigger is fully forward, hammer movement is normally blocked by a hump on the top of the rebound slide; however, if the gun is dropped hard enough on the hammer, the impact may shear off the hammer pivot pin and allow the firing pin to move forwards.
This gun should ALWAYS be carried "five up" with an empty chamber under the hammer. Like an old Colt SAA, you should NOT load all six chambers unless you intend to empty all of them right away!madcratebuilder
New member
+1 on everything Chris said.
You can find repro black rubber grips at Dixie Gun Works, cost about $20.
Does your .32 hand ejector look like this one?
You can find repro black rubber grips at Dixie Gun Works, cost about $20.
Does your .32 hand ejector look like this one?
carguychris
New member
Madcrate, you're making me jealous, because I want one...
FWIW madcrate's gun appears to have the 4-1/4" barrel, the other commonplace barrel length. The 3-1/4" and 4-1/4" barrels seem to be about equally prevalent on early .32HE's. S&W also offered a 6" barrel which seems less common, although 6" guns don't seem to sell for significantly more.
FWIW madcrate's gun appears to have the 4-1/4" barrel, the other commonplace barrel length. The 3-1/4" and 4-1/4" barrels seem to be about equally prevalent on early .32HE's. S&W also offered a 6" barrel which seems less common, although 6" guns don't seem to sell for significantly more.
Mike Irwin
Staff
Hum...
I've got one of those... but it's a bit later and has the wood grips...
I've always wanted a set of hard rubber grips for it.
I think I'll also see if I can find a set of hard rubber grips for my circa 1905 .32-20 Hand Ejector.
Yep, I've got one, and I love it!
I've got one of those... but it's a bit later and has the wood grips...
I've always wanted a set of hard rubber grips for it.
I think I'll also see if I can find a set of hard rubber grips for my circa 1905 .32-20 Hand Ejector.
Yep, I've got one, and I love it!
Mike Irwin
Staff
Crap. Dixie doesn't have K frame round butt grips, (I know the .44 DA is a "close" match) but I'm not going to pay that much for a set of grips that may or may not work.
I found some K frame RBs in hard urethane, but they look like absolute CRAP.
It's pretty obvious that the mould was taken from a very worn set of original grips and there was absolutely no clean up done on the moulding blank.
Sorry, I'd rather start with pristine and break them in myself.
I found some K frame RBs in hard urethane, but they look like absolute CRAP.
It's pretty obvious that the mould was taken from a very worn set of original grips and there was absolutely no clean up done on the moulding blank.
Sorry, I'd rather start with pristine and break them in myself.
madcratebuilder
New member
Mike, the grips that DGW sell are easy to fit to the frame. I sand to fit, finish with 600 grit and polish with a piece of burlap and Ballistol. The Ballistol (mineral oil) puts the color back in the sanded surface.
The grips on my hand ejector started about 1/4 inch to long. I had to shorten then radius the bottom.
The grips on my hand ejector started about 1/4 inch to long. I had to shorten then radius the bottom.