I am a self taught gun restorer. A friend gave me a S&W .22 revolver to work on. His daughter found it in the trunk of a car that she bought. It is a 6 shot revolver with a 6 inch barrel. It has adjustable rear sights and wood grips. If im looking at the right number the sreial number is 268XX and has a G over it. That is inside where the cylinder crane closes. There is also another number on the bottom of the barrel. It is K9391. That on is also on the bottom of the grip on the frame. Can anyone tell me what I've got and when it was made? Is it worth much? Thanks.
Smith & Wesson .22 revolver
- Thread starter Twilly79
- Start date
Winchester_73
New member
The first number you gave is NOT the SN. The second number, combined with what you said makes the gun a 5 screw S&W K-22 target masterpiece made in 1948/49 off the top of my head. This later became the model 17 in 1957. These were on the K frame aka medium. The serial number was placed in the yoke / crane area after it became the model 17. Many S&Ws do not have the SN there since they were made before then. On a S&W, always check the butt for the SN. In select cases the SN may not be on the butt, but that is only in rare instances.
These are in demand, but since there were so many made, beat up / poor condition K-22s really don't bring a lot. I bought a 98% K-22 in box for $641 a year ago. Yours is probably worth $300 or so depending on how bad it is.
I'm curious to what kind a restoration a "self-taught" restorer would do for such a classic gun? Hopefully you don't make it any worse looking than it may be presently.
If you want more accurate value estimates, a pic of both sides is needed. The serial number originally would be on the bottom of the grip frame, bottom of barrel, right grip panel, rear face of cylinder and the bottom of the extractor. Parts are plentiful if needs any. Most model 17 parts should work in the gun.
Dave Anderson
New member
When I read about a handgun such as this my first thought is someone is pulling my leg (please don't be offended, I'm sure you aren't).
From the information provided it sounds like a K22 Masterpiece made in 1947. A lot of knowledgeable revolver fans consider it the finest .22 revolver ever made.
Value depends on condition. I've owned a similar vintage gun for many years. A year or so ago I picked up a "spare". A friend had a similar one for sale in around 98% condition with the original gold box for $750. I could hardly get the money out of my pocket fast enough.
If it is what I think it is, K9391 is the serial number, The other numbers are assembly numbers used by the factory.
Again please don't take offense, but before doing any work on it I'd advise having someone knowledgeable about vintage handguns examine it. I've seen collectible firearms have their collector value severely reduced or destroyed by well-meaning efforts to restore them.
Edited to add, I see Winchester 73 not only posted faster, but paid less for his K22 than I did. Did I pay too much or is Winchester 73 better at bargaining?
From the information provided it sounds like a K22 Masterpiece made in 1947. A lot of knowledgeable revolver fans consider it the finest .22 revolver ever made.
Value depends on condition. I've owned a similar vintage gun for many years. A year or so ago I picked up a "spare". A friend had a similar one for sale in around 98% condition with the original gold box for $750. I could hardly get the money out of my pocket fast enough.
If it is what I think it is, K9391 is the serial number, The other numbers are assembly numbers used by the factory.
Again please don't take offense, but before doing any work on it I'd advise having someone knowledgeable about vintage handguns examine it. I've seen collectible firearms have their collector value severely reduced or destroyed by well-meaning efforts to restore them.
Edited to add, I see Winchester 73 not only posted faster, but paid less for his K22 than I did. Did I pay too much or is Winchester 73 better at bargaining?
I mostly work on rifles and shotguns. This will be my first handgun. I'm really just wanting to take it apart and clean it up. It has a bit of surface rust but the action is kinda sticky feeling. Can you tell me what the screw in front of the trigger guard is for? Thanks for the info guys.
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Winchester_73
New member
Well I found mine online. The auction title wasn't very good, and it did not mention the box pictured in the ad. My box is empty, and sadly without the end label. The gun itself is beautiful. Here she is
If your gun is 98% with original grips with a box that serials to it, I think you did fine. The old black screwdrivers are $100+ nowadays. If your box was full, you probably did pretty well. Even its empty like mine, everyone wants a K-22 so it was worth what you paid and then some.
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Baba Louie
New member
5th screw in front of triggerguard = Cylinder stop plunger retainer screw IIRC. Later removed, those models known as 4 screw models, of which the top screw on sideplate was also later removed, hence 3 screw models.
That K22 needs some good TLC Twilly. Keep us posted on how well it cleans up and shoots.
Welcome to TFL by the way.
Thanks guys. He told me that his daughter had the car for two years before she found it. Free guns are always the best. I may try to buy it from him. I think its going to be a heck of a shooter. I'm thinking about color case hardning some of the parts and rebluing the rest. Getting the rust off is probly going to make it ugly. Naval jelly should do it with little to no sanding, but it will take the bluing off. I will post some more pics as I get into it.
Twilly,
there is refinishing and restoring. Restoring means to bring it as close as possible back to its original condition. To match the finish, you will need to do some more research and the Smith & Wesson forum is probably the best place for that.
You should also consider getting Jerry Kuhnhausen's great book about how to work on S&W revolvers.
there is refinishing and restoring. Restoring means to bring it as close as possible back to its original condition. To match the finish, you will need to do some more research and the Smith & Wesson forum is probably the best place for that.
You should also consider getting Jerry Kuhnhausen's great book about how to work on S&W revolvers.
Winchester_73
New member
This is a popular misconception. The 5th screw is the upper side plate screw NOT the trigger guard screw. For J frame guns, you would be right but for K and N frame, they removed the upper sideplate screw then the trigger guard screw.
Here is my only 4 screw - a pre model 29 aka model 44 magnum
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Dave Anderson
New member
Twilly79;
It probably will be. Can't tell what the bore and chambers are like from the photos but I'm sure you have checked those already. It will be a bit of a challenge no doubt, but good on you for taking on the job of getting it back in shooting condition.
Winchester 73;
Both my K22s could be twins for yours, but the box you have is in nicer shape than either of those I have. No accessories with mine, sorry to say.
I'm not sure there is supposed to be an end label. According to SCSW gold boxes from this era usually had the s/n written in grease pencil on the bottom of the box. On both of those I have this is where the number appears, the lettering is quite faint.
Edited to add: Of course the gold box lids have information printed directly on them such as make, model, barrel length, and finish. I'm assuming by "end label" you mean a separate label with the information, including serial number, pasted on the box lid.
It probably will be. Can't tell what the bore and chambers are like from the photos but I'm sure you have checked those already. It will be a bit of a challenge no doubt, but good on you for taking on the job of getting it back in shooting condition.
Winchester 73;
Both my K22s could be twins for yours, but the box you have is in nicer shape than either of those I have. No accessories with mine, sorry to say.
I'm not sure there is supposed to be an end label. According to SCSW gold boxes from this era usually had the s/n written in grease pencil on the bottom of the box. On both of those I have this is where the number appears, the lettering is quite faint.
Edited to add: Of course the gold box lids have information printed directly on them such as make, model, barrel length, and finish. I'm assuming by "end label" you mean a separate label with the information, including serial number, pasted on the box lid.
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Winchester_73
New member
If you build it, they will come...
Clifford L. Hughes
New member
Twillly79:
You sound like a rank amateur: you don't know how to disassemble a K frame revolver and you suggest to apply Naval Jell to remove rust and any remaining original finish thus destroying any vaule it now has.
Semper Fi.
Gunnery Sergeant
Clifford L. Hughes
USMC Retired
You sound like a rank amateur: you don't know how to disassemble a K frame revolver and you suggest to apply Naval Jell to remove rust and any remaining original finish thus destroying any vaule it now has.
Semper Fi.
Gunnery Sergeant
Clifford L. Hughes
USMC Retired
0000 steel wool or brass or bronze or copper wool and light machine oil for the rust.
There are a variety of cleansers for cleaning guns. Hoppe's #9 is an old one that still popular.
It's likely that the action is gummed up. Old oil dried up. a complete take down and cleaning is in order. Once again Hoppe's will work but there are lots of options.
One thing to remember is that if you take off the side plate and a spring pops out and gets lost in the shag carpet, the world will end.
There are a variety of cleansers for cleaning guns. Hoppe's #9 is an old one that still popular.
It's likely that the action is gummed up. Old oil dried up. a complete take down and cleaning is in order. Once again Hoppe's will work but there are lots of options.
One thing to remember is that if you take off the side plate and a spring pops out and gets lost in the shag carpet, the world will end.
Jayhawkhuntclub
New member
What's your point? So you assume that to be good at fixing up guns that you have to be an expert on identifying them too?
This sounds like it's a shooter regardless. You aren't going to lose much value if it's already a shooter. I think people need to give the OP a break.