Hello all, im looking for an ejector rod for my model 19-3 4 inch. Somehow mine got a little tweaked and rather paying a gun smith to straighten mine id like to simply swap it out. I looked at all the usual places online and came up with nothing. Any insight would be great. Im pretty sure that smith and wesson wont have that part so I haven't bothered contacting them.
Smith snd wesson ejector rod
- Thread starter upstate81
- Start date
Numrich only has the 2.5 inch rods in blue. According to brownells its back orderable. So i put in an email to Smith and Wesson asking about availability. I know they dont typically have a lot of support for the older k frame guns. However im wondering if the 586 rod is the same?
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Bummed.
Im hoping to get one from smith and wesson soon. They sent me an email asking my barrel length and finish which i had already divulged in my first email to them. I have high hopes they can send me out one. This is my favorite pistol i own and having it down is a real bummer. I dont want to wait that long to have it up and running. This experience has taught me that having spare parts is a must and i will start stocking up on parts like this for all my guns when i find good deals.
Im hoping to get one from smith and wesson soon. They sent me an email asking my barrel length and finish which i had already divulged in my first email to them. I have high hopes they can send me out one. This is my favorite pistol i own and having it down is a real bummer. I dont want to wait that long to have it up and running. This experience has taught me that having spare parts is a must and i will start stocking up on parts like this for all my guns when i find good deals.
Folks more savvy than I -- please correct me if I am off the mark.
An ejector rod for a S&W revolver is going to be FAR from a "drop-in" part. While the length may be correct... the length needs to be really, REALLY correct or it's not going to work or work well. And I'm not sure that's even the biggest concern, I would think the cylinder timing and the hand's interaction with the ratchets which are present on the ejector star would be the larger problem.
Or, wait a minute?
Are we simply talking about the far forward end of the rod itself?
Now would that one simply drop-in, needing only to match-up "well enough" with the forward lock-up point?
An ejector rod for a S&W revolver is going to be FAR from a "drop-in" part. While the length may be correct... the length needs to be really, REALLY correct or it's not going to work or work well. And I'm not sure that's even the biggest concern, I would think the cylinder timing and the hand's interaction with the ratchets which are present on the ejector star would be the larger problem.
Or, wait a minute?
Are we simply talking about the far forward end of the rod itself?
Now would that one simply drop-in, needing only to match-up "well enough" with the forward lock-up point?
Straightening an extractor rod (S&W's name for it) is not difficult, nor is getting a replacement to the right length in front. They will usually just "drop in", but a few might require a file stroke to get it even with the center pin so the cylinder will open easily.
As to the ratchet, replacing the extractor rod will not require replacing the extractor unless there is something wrong with it. The major change to the extractor rod was the change to left hand threads, but the OP's 19-3 has the left hand type and the 586 L frame was not even made until long after the change.
As to the extractor rod head being made a part of the rod itself, that change dates to the Model 1905 Third Change in 1909, so I doubt it will be germane here for a 19-3 and a 586.
Jim
As to the ratchet, replacing the extractor rod will not require replacing the extractor unless there is something wrong with it. The major change to the extractor rod was the change to left hand threads, but the OP's 19-3 has the left hand type and the 586 L frame was not even made until long after the change.
As to the extractor rod head being made a part of the rod itself, that change dates to the Model 1905 Third Change in 1909, so I doubt it will be germane here for a 19-3 and a 586.
Jim
The lathe method is good, but I have used a vise and a couple of pieces of copper or lead. Open the vise about 1", support the ends of the rod on the jaws on something soft (copper vise jaws, lead, or plastic) and rotate the rod tapping the high spot with a brass or lead hammer. You can also use the vise to do the straightening by setting up two support points on one jaw and a third pressure point on the opposite jaw. That allows the vise to be used to straighten the rod without pounding on it.
A plain flat surface won't work, since the rod has to be bent a tiny bit in the opposite direction so it can spring back to the right place, and a flat surface won't allow that.
FWIW, that rod is pretty strong and resistant to crushing but, as in many other situations, a light hand works best.
Jim
A plain flat surface won't work, since the rod has to be bent a tiny bit in the opposite direction so it can spring back to the right place, and a flat surface won't allow that.
FWIW, that rod is pretty strong and resistant to crushing but, as in many other situations, a light hand works best.
Jim