Smith model 38, problem? Seeking advice.

F

fungusmunkey

New member
Hey everyone!

I was cleaning my model 38-2 after shooting it for the first time last weekend and noticed something odd.

I purchased the gun used just recently, and it appeared to be in great shape, looking like it had hardly been fired.
The bluing is excellent, there is no line around the cylinder, the forcing cone is immaculate, etc.

Under the area where the barrel meets the frame, there is a 'split' in the frame of the gun.
This gun is not P&R so this is either where the barrel gets crunched into the frame when it is made, or a problem is developing.

I fired around 25 rounds ( no +P!) and the gun operated fine, and was quite accurate.

so i have attached a pic to help show what i'm curious about.
Hopefully someone here will be able to advise me!
hoping im' just paranoid.
 

Attachments

  • PICT0009.jpg
    PICT0009.jpg
    105.8 KB · Views: 152
Man, I won't shoot it anymore. That's right next to the firing chamber and just below the forcing cone. Please take it to a gunsmith posthaste.

Sorry to see that,

Lou
 
That gun is toast and needs a new frame. Do you remember who you got it from? Probably won't do any good to try to return it, but you might give it a shot..
I would surmise that someone has been shooting either hot loads or shooting a lot of rounds. These airweights aren't made for a whole lot of shooting, they're meant for carrying.

Dean
 
That hurts my heart to see.
S&W no longer has any airweight frames. They do have Model 49 frames though. If that is a suitable exchange for you, chances ae they will make the swap. They are good about that type of thing.
 
STOP! Deadline that revolver. POJ, do not fire it. I suspect that either this IS a bad crush fitting of the barrel. Contact S&W to see if they will give you an RA and repair it under warranty. DO NOT FIRE IT! This is extremely DANGEROUS! The possible bad thigs are; KB, barrel following bullets and total failure at ignition that could cost you a finger or hand when the cylinder flies open!
 
A crack in the frame through the barrel threads is a classic sign that someone may have attempted to remove or re-index the barrel by the old trick of locking the barrel in some wood blocks, shoving a hammer handle through the frame and twisting the frame off.

This is why gunsmiths cringe every time we read someone advising or asking about doing barrel work this way.
MANY good revolvers have been ruined by this, either springing the frame, or cracking the frame on the underside of the barrel threads.

While it's possible this could be a factory defect, it's most likely a sign of "Billy Bob" gunsmithing.

As above, DO NOT shoot the gun.
You can talk to S&W, but in all honesty, they're also going to think it's bad gunsmithing.

I'm sorry to tell you this, but some where in the guns past, someone almost certainly did this, then just passed it on to the next unsuspecting buyer.
 
Thanks everyone for the info!

Once i saw that i knew it was toast..
and i tried to imagine that i wasn't by making up excuses in my mind :)

i don't think the crack was there before i shot it the other day, or else i would have noticed since i always clean guns the same way.

but the good news is i purchased it from a good shop that has a 30 day return/exchange/moneyback so i can head up there next week!

thanks again for all of the info to confirm what i didn't want to realize..
 
There's a good chance that if it had been stressed as Dfariswheel described, it might not have shown the crack right away. The last time you fired it was the straw that broke the camels,(M38's) back.
Hopefully the shop will make it right.

Dean
 
Cracked 38-2

My 38-2 cracked the same way after
150rds of standard pressure ammo.
Mine was bought used,in the box with
all the paperwork.It showed no real
signs of being fired much but it did
not take much to break it.I'll give the
people at S&W credit,it replaced it
with a new 638 in less than 2 weeks.
 
Update

Just thought i would update this thread in case anyone was interested.

First of all i would like to re-Thank everyone who posted and offered advice before!
I needed to hear the cold hard truth that the frame was gone.
I was in some kind of denial after finally finding a model 38!

Anyway, so i drove up to the gun store today and showed them the gun. (1.5 hour drive each way..)
They all agreed that the frame was done and seemed to be some type of defect.
One guy there said he had seen that on a Tarus before but not a smith.

The store was great, and it was within the 30 day used purchase window, so they traded me at full credit for what i had paid!
They will deal with the factory and see what can happen with the model 38.

I picked up a Smith model 10-5 with a pinned 2" barrel.
tight lockup and in nice shape!
6 shots makes more sense to me in a revo anyway ;)

So if you are in Arizona i would like to recommend Bear Arms in Scottsdale..
They are nice, good warranty on used guns, knowledgeable and the shop is well stocked.

Also the shop had about 7 used 12guage pumps sitting around which never happens in my local gunshops...
 
Great shop! I have a M38 humpback on layaway and a 3" M10-8 HB RB too. I am going to try to swap out the M10 though for a 638. I really like the humpbacks! I do have a M10-11 2" RB myself, great CCW revolvers.
 
Don, Springmom:

I agree! it is nice they did the right thing!
They could have easily told me to go away and i'd be left talking to S&W who might say the same thing.
So a weight has been lifted from my chest and i'm a happy camper :)

That shop is definately getting my business again.
Not so sure about alloy revolvers now though.. heh

Sir William:

I would like to find another humpback but i'm not going to push my luck.
probably look for a model 10 4" pencil barrel next. I like the classic look.

Definately will need a holster for the model 10 with the extra weight compared to the airweight.
 
I have 2", 3", 4" and a couple of 5" M10s. I think they are great for almost every need. I am also the owner of possibly THE greatest S&W 38 Special ever, the M15 4".It was also made in 2" form. I suggest trying to find a M10 and a M15.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top