Gents,
I just replaced both the main (hammer) spring and the trigger rebound spring on my S&W 442 and 340SC J frame guns and what a difference! Thanks to contributors here who supplied pointers!
The main (hammer) spring was easiest with no special tools other than wood or rubber mallet for removing the side plate. Remove the grips. Remove the large screw on the right side underneath the cylinder. It will be tight, use the largest screwdriver that will fit the slot, press in hard while turning, and be careful not to allow it to slip and mar the surface. Once it is removed, you can slide out the crane and cylinder (forward). Remove the other two screws (smaller) and be sure to note which goes where and to replace them from whence they came. I am advised that on some guns they may all slightly different. On mine two appeared identical but I didn't take any chances.
Then tap on the grip frame just under the side plate (with the gun resting on something soft... pile of rags, foam, etc.) with a wood or rubber mallet (I put a block on the gun and tapped it with a rubber mallet) until the side plate pops off. Mine were very tight.. took five or ten minutes and came very slowly. When putting it back, be careful to insert the top, with the little tang, first, and carefully push the plat back in place.
Most people recommend replacing only the rebound spring but I did both and found that it an improvment without any negative impact on operations. When you have completed the procedure, put many rounds of all kinds of ammo downrange, particularly your carry ammo, before trusting your life to your DIY project!
With the plate off, you will be able to replace:
Main spring: pull up the rubber spring endcap that holds the bottom of the main spring in a notch in the base of the grip frame. Slide the bottom out of the slot, holding the spring. Release the spring s-l-o-w-l-y, slide off the spring shaft, and replace it with the new, reduced pressure spring. On both of my Smiths, I used the weakest replacement available from Wolff: 8 pounds. ( I bought the three spring set set so I could try a stronger one if necessary.) Slide the spring and rubber grommet past the small hole in the shaft, while leaving the top of the spring and guide attached to the hammer block. Slip a paper clip into the hole to retain the spring on the shaft while you slide the base of the spring, spring shaft, and grommet back into the notch in the grip frame. Carefully slide out the paper clip while holding the spring. It will snap into place. You may now replace the cover and grip.
Trigger Rebound Spring
I bought a special tool for this job from Joe Beary (beary6519@msn.com or 360-379-6519 at Gunbroker.com, for about $23 shipped) after reading about how tricky it is getting the spring out of the tiny block and back in. Your call. Some folks use a nail set and/or a small screw driver. It has two specially shaped milled metal ends mounted in a hard plastic handle.
I understand that new smith revolvers come with 18# rebound springs from the factory. (I have read that Lady Smith's have reduced power from the factory but haven't confirmed that.) I replaced mine with 12# from Wolff (www.gunsprings.com), the least power they sell in a pack. I have 11# on order with which to experiment.
As far as "jamming" a tiny spring into a tiny 1/4 by 1/4 in x 5/8 inch block with manly hands, both are pretty stiff, and if you don't have Joe's tool, you will lose three or four, bouncing around while trying to tuck them into the block, slide it past the post, etc. without losing the end of your finger. With the fork end of the tool, the spring and block levers right out just enough to slide out the spring, while keeping the other end engaged with the trigger. You slide in the new spring, use the conical end of Joe's tool to compress the spring.. and slide the spring end past the rounded end of the shaft which holds the fixed spring end in place.
Now replace the side plate carefully, "hooking" the top rear corner tang and then slowly pressing the plate with your fingers. Carefully replace the screws and tighten down firmly with good down pressure, to avoid stripping the edge of the screw or gouging the frame.
Now, go to the range and test out your work, enjoying the much easier trigger pull. Test with many rounds of all your ammo... particularly your carry ammo... to ensure you won't have failure to fire from weak impact. And beware, also, that an easier trigger in pocket carry means greater probability of accidental discharge.
Good luck.
Paul
I just replaced both the main (hammer) spring and the trigger rebound spring on my S&W 442 and 340SC J frame guns and what a difference! Thanks to contributors here who supplied pointers!
The main (hammer) spring was easiest with no special tools other than wood or rubber mallet for removing the side plate. Remove the grips. Remove the large screw on the right side underneath the cylinder. It will be tight, use the largest screwdriver that will fit the slot, press in hard while turning, and be careful not to allow it to slip and mar the surface. Once it is removed, you can slide out the crane and cylinder (forward). Remove the other two screws (smaller) and be sure to note which goes where and to replace them from whence they came. I am advised that on some guns they may all slightly different. On mine two appeared identical but I didn't take any chances.
Then tap on the grip frame just under the side plate (with the gun resting on something soft... pile of rags, foam, etc.) with a wood or rubber mallet (I put a block on the gun and tapped it with a rubber mallet) until the side plate pops off. Mine were very tight.. took five or ten minutes and came very slowly. When putting it back, be careful to insert the top, with the little tang, first, and carefully push the plat back in place.
Most people recommend replacing only the rebound spring but I did both and found that it an improvment without any negative impact on operations. When you have completed the procedure, put many rounds of all kinds of ammo downrange, particularly your carry ammo, before trusting your life to your DIY project!
With the plate off, you will be able to replace:
Main spring: pull up the rubber spring endcap that holds the bottom of the main spring in a notch in the base of the grip frame. Slide the bottom out of the slot, holding the spring. Release the spring s-l-o-w-l-y, slide off the spring shaft, and replace it with the new, reduced pressure spring. On both of my Smiths, I used the weakest replacement available from Wolff: 8 pounds. ( I bought the three spring set set so I could try a stronger one if necessary.) Slide the spring and rubber grommet past the small hole in the shaft, while leaving the top of the spring and guide attached to the hammer block. Slip a paper clip into the hole to retain the spring on the shaft while you slide the base of the spring, spring shaft, and grommet back into the notch in the grip frame. Carefully slide out the paper clip while holding the spring. It will snap into place. You may now replace the cover and grip.
Trigger Rebound Spring
I bought a special tool for this job from Joe Beary (beary6519@msn.com or 360-379-6519 at Gunbroker.com, for about $23 shipped) after reading about how tricky it is getting the spring out of the tiny block and back in. Your call. Some folks use a nail set and/or a small screw driver. It has two specially shaped milled metal ends mounted in a hard plastic handle.
I understand that new smith revolvers come with 18# rebound springs from the factory. (I have read that Lady Smith's have reduced power from the factory but haven't confirmed that.) I replaced mine with 12# from Wolff (www.gunsprings.com), the least power they sell in a pack. I have 11# on order with which to experiment.
As far as "jamming" a tiny spring into a tiny 1/4 by 1/4 in x 5/8 inch block with manly hands, both are pretty stiff, and if you don't have Joe's tool, you will lose three or four, bouncing around while trying to tuck them into the block, slide it past the post, etc. without losing the end of your finger. With the fork end of the tool, the spring and block levers right out just enough to slide out the spring, while keeping the other end engaged with the trigger. You slide in the new spring, use the conical end of Joe's tool to compress the spring.. and slide the spring end past the rounded end of the shaft which holds the fixed spring end in place.
Now replace the side plate carefully, "hooking" the top rear corner tang and then slowly pressing the plate with your fingers. Carefully replace the screws and tighten down firmly with good down pressure, to avoid stripping the edge of the screw or gouging the frame.
Now, go to the range and test out your work, enjoying the much easier trigger pull. Test with many rounds of all your ammo... particularly your carry ammo... to ensure you won't have failure to fire from weak impact. And beware, also, that an easier trigger in pocket carry means greater probability of accidental discharge.
Good luck.
Paul
