Mattj4867 said:
The tag said the gun was from the 70’s but it doesn’t have a pinned and recessed barrel.
IIRC there is some irregularity with J frames regarding the pinned barrel; some late 70s production runs lack it. That said, the best way to ID a pre-1983 .38 Special J frame is the serial number, which should consist mostly of numbers with the letter "J" in it somewhere. In mid-1983, S&W switched over to the current 3-letter 4-number serializing system. More specifics
in this TFL post.
Master Blaster said:
I believe just an N on the frame would mean original nickle.
The "N" should be on the rear cylinder face. It it normally very faint and shallow, which is helpful because a non-factory refinish will almost always wipe it out.
That said, I believe that this revolver has original finish.
Mattj4867 said:
Mechanical description re trigger and cylinder play -- I'd walk.
IMHO there is nothing wrong with the OP's description of the trigger and cylinder play. Assuming that the cylinder locks up properly, a little side-to-side cylinder play is normal on a modern S&W, and should have no measurable effect on accuracy or function. The red flag is endshake, but the OP says that it's tight, so that's fine.
FWIW I think this revolver has been fired relatively little because heavy use tends to darken the nickel around the yoke and the front of the cylinder, and this discoloration is difficult to remove without leaving any signs.
IMHO $499 is a fair price, albeit not in the "RUN don't walk back to the store!" category.