Smith. 610

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WhatRecoil

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I have long considered converting a S&W 610 to 10mm Magnum since the ammo crunch, being that 41 mag is $80 a box now, but I'm concerned that the cylinder may not handle the pressure, even though it is N FRAME. The brass is also expensive and "rare as hens teeth", but I think this would still be cheaper than a 41 mag wheel gun and all the fixins.

Any thoughts are appreciated:D
 
I have long considered converting a S&W 610 to 10mm Magnum since the ammo crunch, being that 41 mag is $80 a box now, but I'm concerned that the cylinder may not handle the pressure, even though it is N FRAME ***
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It should handle the pressure just fine, since diameter-wise there's thicker metal surrounding the case than with .44 & .41 mag N-frame cylinders.

Check and see if custom wheelgun master Hamilton Bowen is still doing his magnum conversions on the 610 cylinders.
There's a bit more to it than just reaming them out. I considered this exercise on my all-original 6.5" S&W 610 (no dash, first-run model from 1990), and did a lot of research trying to find user experiences on the conversion.

The only negative I came across was from some posters who reported that while accuracy (using the moon clips) was good with the 10-Mag and standard 10mm (whether factory or handloads), groups opened up when shooting .40S&W ammo. This was attributed, apparently, to the longer bullet-jump from the extension of the interior chambers in the cylinder to accommodate the COAL of the longer magnum cartridge.

Ultimately I passed on the conversion. Not because there was anything wrong with it, it was just that a range acquaintance of mine paid really good money to acquire my 610 - offering, as they say, a sum of $$$ I couldn't refuse.

As I understand it now, first-run 610s in original condition are commanding huge premiums on gunsites like GunJoker.
 
The 41 magnum base diameter is .434. The 10mm Auto's base diameter is .425. Since the 10mm Magnum is a longer version of the Auto, I'm going to assume it has the same base diameter.

How do you plan on shrinking the holes in your cylinder? How are you going to deal with the 10mm Mag being rimless?

Even if the conversion were feasible, 41 Magnum is a factory chambering and 10mm Magnum is a wildcat. It will be easier (although perhaps not easy) to find 41 mag brass than 10mm Magnum brass. At this writing Starline (bless 'em) has 41 Mag brass in stock @$100 / 500 and 10mm Mag on backorder, @$127 / 500.

All things considered, I'd leave the gun as a 41 Mag and buy some brass now while it's available.
 
I'd leave the gun as a 41 Mag and buy some brass now while it's available
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The 610 is a 10mm.

converting a S&W 610 to 10mm Magnum since the ammo crunch, being that 41 mag is $80 a box now
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Since the 10mm magnum is a reloading proposition only, the cost of 41 mag ammo would be a mute point as you could reload for it also.

Jim
 
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If you don't load your own you shouldn't consider .41 mag, nor 10mm mag.....and it's not like 610's grow on trees either.
 
If you want something neat that nobody else has, 10mm Magnum is one way to do that. If you want 10mm Magnum in a revolver to (somehow?!) save money or ....?! over a .41 Magnum, I think you may have to describe what the problem is before anyone will understand your argument.

.41 Magnum is going to be "better" at everything the 10mm Mag could do anyway, and I say that mostly because of bullet selection and factory cannelured bullets that far better lend themselves to heavy roll crimps on heavy loads.
 
* * * I'd leave the gun as a 41 Mag and buy some brass now while it's available.
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That's not what the OP said. He was asking about converting the cylinder on a stock S&W 610 revolver from standard 10mm AUTO dimensions to allow chambering of 10mm magnum ammo, not .41 magum.

The 10mm magnum uses all the same 10mm/.40-cal bullets as the 10mm AUTO (and 40S&W, for that matter), but does it from a longer case. In fact, the length of the 10mm mag's case alone (1.242") is quite close to the loaded COAL of the 10mm (1.260").
 
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Thanks

Everybody here knows that reloading is pretty much a given now if you want to shoot anything on a semi-regular basis, I hadn't considered bullet configs between the two calibers yet. It's too bad the 41 never caught up vs 44 with its specs measuring up so well. Come to think of it, a set of 10 mag dies is a click away from a set of 41 dies, I just don't want another revolver when the 610 could be adapted. I've heard ever since God knows when that 10mm matches 41, but unless you RYO, I can't see it. I'll check the 610 model for estimated asking price. If she's a high dollar horse, out to pasture. Sorry about the wording
 
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I love mine :D

yes I have a S&W 610 converted to 10 mm Magnum...

my gun had headspace issues new from the factory, before rechambering, so I would recommend that you have your revolver checked out before chambering for the hotter cartridge...

brass is in stock from Starline...

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with fiber oiptic sights added ( right side )

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Starline shows brass as being available and shipping on 8/21/15 at $127/500. Gary Reeder Custom Guns in Flagstaff will do the rechambering for $250 and needs the entire gun and your moon clips to insure proper headspacing. Dave Clements used to do the job but has been turning down the conversion since he is so busy with other work. Calls to other major pistol smiths were never returned. I'm awaiting my conversion now. Regular 10mm auto dies will work just fine.
 
Dear Lord have mercy....

Mag Wheel man....I would have thought those little guys would've vaporized with that kinda power hit 'em!!!! My 610 is an older model, none of that pesky laser printing, no factory key gimmick etc.

(I just realized those are photos of bison and not killer ground squirrels, LOL!!!)

Now I feel like the idiot....

A 200 gr. hard cast lead 10mm Mag should knock "Mr. Piggy" into next month, cause him more trouble than pullin' a cat through a key hole!!!! I can see no evidence of headspace problems with the moons I got from Brownells, S&W moon clips are horrible, bend too easy.

Still wondering how that load would compare to a 41 Mag from a 6in. bbl.?? It ain't a 629 with an 8 inch and a 240 HP or a Hornady 180 HP (BOOOOMMMM), but I'd like to see if its enough medicine for black bear....
 
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I use the Rimz plastic moons & still have a few of the original S&W moons... I actually shoot the 10mm Magnum in several guns... I have a 10" Contender barrel ( originally in 10 MM ) that I also chambered in 10 Mag, & the whole reason I have the cartridge in the 1st place, is the Automag 4 I have, also chambered in 10 Mag

I've not really tried the 10 Mag level loads with cast bullets ( though a hard cast should work well with lighter charges, & a gas check for heavy ones )

BTW... I no longer shoot 40 S&W in the gun, or even 10mm ( to reduce the carbon ring thing ) Trailboss works great at 40 S&W levels, & provides great accuracy... other powders I use to load at 10mm Charge level...
 
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I'm really spastic....

Bet you couldn't tell by my wording sometimes LOL, but mainly about cylinder cleanliness and forcing cones too....NO RINGIES. I use EEZOX AND 0000 wool when and if that starts....never wait... That 0000 stainless wool will slide that residue out of there with a couple of quick passes.

I knew I should've started reloading long ago and bought the 41 instead of the 44s, I had Clint Eastwood fever, but loved the flat shooting character of my old Delta Elite. Even considered a Thompson Center in 3006 and 4570 Govt. Too many calibers was the thought. I just can't shake my love affair with 10mm. Glockzilla makes me smile and feel really safe, even with lowly Silvertips. If Federal were to cook up a full house HST IN 10mm, I'd think I had died and gone no niche cartridge heaven.


One of these days it's gonna be to heck with the whole deal, sell it all and snag a S&W 460 XVR:eek:
 
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The verdict is in

My 610 has NO DASH IN THE MODEL NUMBER. I can't believe that I never took the time to pay any attention to that little detail....talk about live and learn. My first few posts on TFL not only saved me $$$$ by not converting a collectors item, I found out that my little darlin' is a lot sweeter than previously assumed!!!

I OWE YOU GUYS ON THIS FORUM IN TFL. Thanks to all the Wheelgun fanatics here. There were times I've wondered if this was a good purchase on my part. That riddle is permanently solved!

Now all I have to do is find a stainless 41 Magnum or S&W XVR at a steal and here we go.....
 
My 610 has NO DASH IN THE MODEL NUMBER. I can't believe that I never took the time to pay any attention to that little detail....talk about live and learn. My first few posts on TFL not only saved me $$$$ by not converting a collectors item, I found out that my little darlin' is a lot sweeter than previously assumed!!!
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What's your 610's barrel length?

First run, no-dash 610s sported either 5" or 6.5" barrels, had fluted cylinders, wood (cocobolo grained) RB grips w/ finger grooves, and black target sights (front & rear).

If you call S&W and give them your serial number, they'll tell you what your 610's "born-on" date was. I believe Smith also still offers the service of a historical letter, if you're so inclined.
 
It's a 6.5

Exactly as described above, hammer mounted firing pin:D Do you happen to know if the original issue grips could've been made differently?? I seen a few on the net with wood grips FG that matched the frame contours
 
As far as I know, both variants of the first-run 610s came w/ the cocobolo wood RB grips w/ the finger grooves. If you see one wearing other grips, like Pachmyr or Hogues, I'd doubt it was a first-run 610.
 
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