CedarGrove357
New member
Hi folks-
I searched the forums attempting to answer a process question on rust bluing. I didn't find what I needed, although I am sure its been posted before.
What do you use to seal your bluing jobs when complete?
My process list is below.
I have been doing several re blue jobs, and I've noticed that after a few days, the bluing creates a new layer of black rust on the barrels; very light and finer than dust. I believe I am not getting the bluing sealed at the end of the process like I should be. A wipe down with gun oil [specifically, Lucas Gun Oil] removes the layer and the part looks good again. Here's a pic of an UltraSlug I recently did:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/v7ohrvelnklldd8/20201231_170852-1080x520.png?dl=0
My process is as follows:
1. disassemble firearm
2. boil parts in water to convert rust and loosen any hard rust
3. card parts to remove loosened rust, wipe down.
4. apply rust solution [Brownells Classic Rust Blue is currently in use]
5. let dry an hour, reapply second coat, allow to dry
6. wait 24 hours to allow parts to rust [50+% humidity], longer if not quite rusted enough. [Speed isn't a factor with this method for me, although I can accelerate the process if needed/ too low ambient humidity.]
7. Steam parts to convert new rust
8. card parts and wipe down with a clean blue shop towel.
9. hang and allow to rust again naturally [nope, no more salts]
10. Rinse and repeat for 7 days minimum
11. After final carding, dry heat parts to 115 degrees [just the temp my heater blows into the box] in a heat box and soak in kerosene for an hour. Remove, wipe down and blow off any excess
12. coat with gun oil/liquid wax mix and wrap in paper and rest for 24 hours before assembly.
Thanks for the advice.
I searched the forums attempting to answer a process question on rust bluing. I didn't find what I needed, although I am sure its been posted before.
What do you use to seal your bluing jobs when complete?
My process list is below.
I have been doing several re blue jobs, and I've noticed that after a few days, the bluing creates a new layer of black rust on the barrels; very light and finer than dust. I believe I am not getting the bluing sealed at the end of the process like I should be. A wipe down with gun oil [specifically, Lucas Gun Oil] removes the layer and the part looks good again. Here's a pic of an UltraSlug I recently did:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/v7ohrvelnklldd8/20201231_170852-1080x520.png?dl=0
My process is as follows:
1. disassemble firearm
2. boil parts in water to convert rust and loosen any hard rust
3. card parts to remove loosened rust, wipe down.
4. apply rust solution [Brownells Classic Rust Blue is currently in use]
5. let dry an hour, reapply second coat, allow to dry
6. wait 24 hours to allow parts to rust [50+% humidity], longer if not quite rusted enough. [Speed isn't a factor with this method for me, although I can accelerate the process if needed/ too low ambient humidity.]
7. Steam parts to convert new rust
8. card parts and wipe down with a clean blue shop towel.
9. hang and allow to rust again naturally [nope, no more salts]
10. Rinse and repeat for 7 days minimum
11. After final carding, dry heat parts to 115 degrees [just the temp my heater blows into the box] in a heat box and soak in kerosene for an hour. Remove, wipe down and blow off any excess
12. coat with gun oil/liquid wax mix and wrap in paper and rest for 24 hours before assembly.
Thanks for the advice.
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