Slide rail nicks on frame of new Sig...Problem?
- Thread starter JRiggs
- Start date
Maybe a shaving or two in the works when they test fired it?
My 40 cal. SIG P229 developed nicks when I broke it in. Freaked me out. Wear stopped after about 500 rounds. Gunsmith called it Galling. Believe me, I was galled too.
Ended up with about half an inch of small nicks on both frame rails on the end closest to the magazine. Has not gotten any worse even though I have put five or six thousand rounds through it.
My 40 cal. SIG P229 developed nicks when I broke it in. Freaked me out. Wear stopped after about 500 rounds. Gunsmith called it Galling. Believe me, I was galled too.
Ended up with about half an inch of small nicks on both frame rails on the end closest to the magazine. Has not gotten any worse even though I have put five or six thousand rounds through it.
Will Beararms
New member
Quite normal. The durometer of the Aluminum is softer than the SS steel slide. I have had this on the 220 and 239 I owned. My 92FS did it and my Smith 3953 does it where the slide stop is inserted.
Where I am from, we take aluminum weld it together, paint it green, put a motor behind it and run it through swamps. Don't sweat it---------------enjoy.
Where I am from, we take aluminum weld it together, paint it green, put a motor behind it and run it through swamps. Don't sweat it---------------enjoy.
Is it on the top of the rail about an inch from the muzzle end?
There is a point right there on my gun where the bearing surface of the rail stops. you can see a very slight level change at that point. It could be that the machine that milled the top of the rail tore the metal slightly at the end of the cut (or grind).
If that is the case you may want to consider exchanging it.
Hope it all works out.
There is a point right there on my gun where the bearing surface of the rail stops. you can see a very slight level change at that point. It could be that the machine that milled the top of the rail tore the metal slightly at the end of the cut (or grind).
If that is the case you may want to consider exchanging it.
Hope it all works out.
Yep
. Im sure its harmless, but SIG's arent cheap and they should be perfect out of the box. We'll see what happens.
I don't know about perfect, but I don't see how they can't fix this problem. I know the SIGfans say it's not a problem because it doesn't affect anything, but when I pay $600+ for something I expect it to be well fitted. I've never seen frame rail gouging on any other manufacturer's products. Even the $200 beaten P89 my buddy bought has smooth rails after thousands of rounds. I sure wish SIG Sauer would come up with a better excuse than "it's normal."
. Im sure its harmless, but SIG's arent cheap and they should be perfect out of the box. We'll see what happens.
I don't know about perfect, but I don't see how they can't fix this problem. I know the SIGfans say it's not a problem because it doesn't affect anything, but when I pay $600+ for something I expect it to be well fitted. I've never seen frame rail gouging on any other manufacturer's products. Even the $200 beaten P89 my buddy bought has smooth rails after thousands of rounds. I sure wish SIG Sauer would come up with a better excuse than "it's normal."
Wild Romanian
Moderator
Unfortunately this is what you have to live with when you buy an aluminum frame handgun. I own quite a few of them myself and the condition you describe will only get worse the more you shoot the gun. Aluminum except for weight is a very poor materiel to use in making a handgun frame. Galling is only much to prevelent in aluminum frame handguns.
If you are the occasional weekend shooter your gun will probably serve you well but do not expect the frame to remain as tight and as accurate as a good forged steel frame gun. The properites of this metal just will not allow it to happen. W.R.
If you are the occasional weekend shooter your gun will probably serve you well but do not expect the frame to remain as tight and as accurate as a good forged steel frame gun. The properites of this metal just will not allow it to happen. W.R.
Will Beararms
New member
Obviously the answer is to get a steel framed 1911 so you can spend an extra $grand to get it to function with all types of ammo 98% of the time.
With all due respect, all sigs gouge and it is actually a sign that they left tad bit too much metal in the machining process rather than not enough. There was nothing wrong with the first gun and someone else will get a good deal on a gun that will be very accurate and shoot for a long time.
It's amazing how many aluminum frames crack on the web yet on the streets, I know many who never have a problem with Sigs, Smiths or Berettas.
Guess what if you shoot alot, you will have problems. I don't care if we are talking shotguns, rifles or handguns. There is simply no such thing as a fool-proof handgun.
I have relegated handguns to what they actually are: a last ditch, stop gap tool used to work your way to the rifle or shotgun. I have much less stress these days and actually buy guns because they shoot well, are reliable and feel well. I don't bother myself with what could happen. As Each day passes, I see more and more the logic of buying about four Makarovs with plenty of ammo and spare parts while focusing my money and time on long guns.
With all due respect, all sigs gouge and it is actually a sign that they left tad bit too much metal in the machining process rather than not enough. There was nothing wrong with the first gun and someone else will get a good deal on a gun that will be very accurate and shoot for a long time.
It's amazing how many aluminum frames crack on the web yet on the streets, I know many who never have a problem with Sigs, Smiths or Berettas.
Guess what if you shoot alot, you will have problems. I don't care if we are talking shotguns, rifles or handguns. There is simply no such thing as a fool-proof handgun.
I have relegated handguns to what they actually are: a last ditch, stop gap tool used to work your way to the rifle or shotgun. I have much less stress these days and actually buy guns because they shoot well, are reliable and feel well. I don't bother myself with what could happen. As Each day passes, I see more and more the logic of buying about four Makarovs with plenty of ammo and spare parts while focusing my money and time on long guns.
Wild Romanian
Moderator
With all due respect your about 30 years behind the times in regards to what 1911's will do.
I own quality Colt 1911's that were manufactured over 30 years ago and all work fine with anything I put through them.
As a matter of fact my Sig P220 will not feed Hensley and Gibbs semi-wad cutters. Its short feed ramp will simply not allow this. Because it has less room between the empty case being ejected and the loaded round beneath it the empty case will scrape the loaded round beneath it. The rim of the empty case plows into the shoulder of the lead bullet beneath it and then peels back the mouth of the loaded round like a bannana. This results in some interesting jams.
This does not happen on 1911 style weapons because of their steeper feed ramp which allows much more room between the empty being ejected and the loaded round beneath it.
In short the 100 year old design of the 1911 is actually superior in this respect. It feeds anything and the Sig's very design does not allow it to do the same. W.R.