Slicking up a BHP

[Tom68]

After 15 months on the waiting list, I have received instructions from Cylinder and Slide that they are ready for me to send my BHP Mk III for work. This pistol was purchased new, and sits alongside a surplus Mk II that I have. My goal is to slick up the new one, and leave the surplus as is. I’m looking for some suggestions regarding the work to be done, as I have the opportunity to fine-tune my instructions.

First off, I am not a virtuoso pistoleer, and really have no real needs in improving this pistol. This is primarily a pride-of-ownership thing, and the internal work is the first stage in having a really nice pistol that matches my particular likes, that quite frankly will be seldom carried, shot somewhat infrequently, and admired often. As stated before, I have the surplus Mk II and it currently shoots exactly like the Mk III, but I have no worries of its appearance and I’ll continue to shoot it a lot.

Also, quite frankly I am not very trigger sensitive: it takes a pretty bad trigger for me to notice. Having said that, the BHP as issued is a bad enough trigger for even me to take notice, especially the almost non-existent reset. Currently my plan is to have this work done: 9B088 - Trigger Pull Lightened to 4-4.5 lb. on MK III Browning with No Magazine Disconnect and 9B014 - Trigger Reconnect Distance Shortened (recommended with 9B001 high grip option). I’d like the experts to weigh in on what I should expect and perhaps if I should re-think the work I’m planning. I do not intend to carry this pistol, but will be using it primarily at the range (as C&S recommends trigger weight for range use only). I definitely do want the magazine disconnect removed (which I have already done to the Mk II), and I definitely want to shorten the reset (and hopefully add a audible and tactile click that I can discern!)

Some of the other options available are: Throat Feed Ramp; Polish and Deburr all Internal Working Surfaces; Radius and Tension the Extractor. How important are those services—to me—for the purposes for which I have explained? Keep in mind that I have about 1000 rounds through this pistol with zero malfunctions thus far.

Down the road I want to polish the frame and slide, and replace the matte finish with a deep blue (like the Brownings of the mid-seventies), nice wood grips, and replace the rear sight (Heinie or Novak).

What does this community think? I don’t necessarily want to make it into a $3500 customized pistol, but I’m not opposed to spending up to another $1000 for the finish, internals, and grips.

 

[WVsig]

Also, quite frankly I am not very trigger sensitive: it takes a pretty bad trigger for me to notice. Having said that, the BHP as issued is a bad enough trigger for even me to take notice, especially the almost non-existent reset. Currently my plan is to have this work done: 9B088 - Trigger Pull Lightened to 4-4.5 lb. on MK III Browning with No Magazine Disconnect and 9B014 - Trigger Reconnect Distance Shortened (recommended with 9B001 high grip option). I’d like the experts to weigh in on what I should expect and perhaps if I should re-think the work I’m planning. I do not intend to carry this pistol, but will be using it primarily at the range (as C&S recommends trigger weight for range use only). I definitely do want the magazine disconnect removed (which I have already done to the Mk II), and I definitely want to shorten the reset (and hopefully add a audible and tactile click that I can discern!)

C&S does great work and you should be happy with the results. Looking at your modification I like what you are doing.

9B088 - Trigger Pull Lightened to 4-4.5 lb. on MK III Browning with No Magazine Disconnect and This is a good package for $314 considering the new parts and the labor are included. I would say that the only downside to a 4lb trigger on a BHP is that they will not hold as long as a 4lb trigger on a 1911 in my experience. This is fine for a target gun. You have to keep and eye on springs or you can get hammer follow. If you are willing to monitor springs and feel ok replacing or tweaking them from time to time 4.5lbs is fine. Personally I would never go lower on a BHP. For a defensive gun I keep them in the 5lb range. For me it is more important to get a smooth clean pull vs the lowest weight possible.

Trigger Reconnect Distance Shortened (recommended with 9B001 high grip option) This mod for $68 is a preference thing. Lots of 1911 shooter and Glock shooters want to make the BHP reset shorter and more positive. Personally I just have learned to "run" this gun but if you are in the shorter is better camp go for it.

Some of the other options available are: Throat Feed Ramp; Polish and Deburr all Internal Working Surfaces; Radius and Tension the Extractor. How important are those services—to me—for the purposes for which I have explained? Keep in mind that I have about 1000 rounds through this pistol with zero malfunctions thus far.

These are all decent upgrades but if the pistol is working properly they are some what unnecessary. Personally I think they are charging too much for this work. Garthwaite charges $50 to Throat factory barrel, polish feed ramp, and profile extractor. They are charging you $150 for similar services.

Radiusing and tensioning the extractor are both positive things. It will help with extraction. When done right the pistol will eject brass into a single pile. That said it is not necessary if the pistol is functioning perfectly now. $34

Personally I prefer a deburring and polish of external services more than internal. You are already getting a trigger job so the most important "internal working surface" should be good to go. $136 is too much for this IMHO. This is assuming that the pistol has no machining defects and that the slide and frame fit is good and the barrel lockup is solid and smooth.

Throating the barrel is also a positive but again not necessary if the gun is running now. If it has a tight chamber or it part of the package go for it. Done right by C&S not a dremel monkey certainly will not hurt. $68 is over priced, especially if not needed, if you are not having feeding issues.

The trigger work is going to make the biggest difference in how the pistol shoots assuming it is reliable now. If you do the trigger work, shorten the reset and have the extractor tuned you are looking at $416.

I spend the rest of the money on sights, raduising, beburring and softening the external sharp edges and having it reblued and put a set of Spegels or Hogues on it.

Sights would cost you $350+/-, Radius work would cost $102 and they would reblue the pistol for $204.

That would put you at right about a $1100 or take and you would have an amazing BHP.

 

[Dufus]

What does this community think?

One of is thinking that someone has more money than they know what to do with. JMO

But, without wanting it to sound ugly, I have done these mods to my own guns simply because I wanted to, not because they needed the mods.

I don't think accuracy improved all that much. At least I had the facilities to do all the work myself and didn't have to pay anyone to do it. If that were the case, the mods prolly would not have been.

 

[Tom68]

WV, if I went the 5# route with disconnect retained, would the disconnect still have an appreciable effect on pull, or would additional polishing on the disconnect and magazines still be required?

I'm not necessarily leaning towards 4#-4.5# just because I want it that light; I was just led to believe that disconnect really has to be removed before anything can work as smoothly as it's capable.

I really don't intend to pay for a bunch of work that I won't be able to tell a difference... as really I don't have more money than I know what to do with

 

[WVsig]

WV, if I went the 5# route with disconnect retained, would the disconnect still have an appreciable effect on pull, or would additional polishing on the disconnect and magazines still be required?

I'm not necessarily leaning towards 4#-4.5# just because I want it that light; I was just led to believe that disconnect really has to be removed before anything can work as smoothly as it's capable.

I really don't intend to pay for a bunch of work that I won't be able to tell a difference... as really I don't have more money than I know what to do with

Take the disconnect out no matter what weight you go with. I take them out of every BHP I own. Some people do not like the effect on the reset but a stronger spring can help that. IIRC the original 2 coil spring from FN/Browning prior to the sear lever block being added in the 80's is stronger than the current 3 coil. I am willing to bet C&S will install the 2 coil spring.

I do not mind the reset with the disconnect out. People complain it makes the reset vague. With the disconnect in the spring of the disconnect makes the reset more positive but the 2 coil spring can help.

Some people have had luck getting good clean triggers with the disconnect but that has not been my experience. I prefer it gone but that might be habit and preference as much as anything else.

I would talk with C&S and see that they think. I am sure they will tune it up right for you whichever you choose. The best thing to do is talk to your smith. Tell them what you want out of the gun and have them help you get to that goal.

 

[Dufus]

You understood I was pullin' yer leg....good.

I have found over the years that the most prominent task is trigger improvements. I can adapt to most any trigger and learn to shoot with it.

Sometimes you just find one that feels as if it drags on a gravel road. Those are the projects I am talking about.

Even if you do some of the things that were discussed in your OP, I don't think you should regret it. But, above all, weigh the cost against the return.

What use is there in having a street rod if it won't run???

 

[WVsig]

What use is there in having a street rod if it won't run???

This one runs.... All my BHPs run.

So does this one...

This one is an oldie but a goodie...

 

[Bartholomew Roberts]

I've bad four different Hi-Power smiths (Roguard, Don Williams, a former Novak's guy who shall remain nameless and a local smith) try to make the reset more tactile and shorter on the Hi-Power. Some have gotten it a tiny, tiny bit shorter. None have done well enough for me to tell the difference in comparison with an unmodified Izzy surplus MkIII. If C&S can deliver that for $68, that is a deal but I'm guessing any improvement will remain minimal.

The main things I like to change on mine are: trigger, sights, more positive safety engagement and a C&S Commander hammer so the spur hammer doesn't gouge me as bad when I carry IWB with no undershirt.

 

[WVsig]

I forgot to mention the thumb safety. I normally replace mine but I always do single sided safeties. I have use C&S, Don William Custom safety and Garthwaites custom safety. The later 2 can only be purchased if you have them do custom work.

If you are going to keep an ambi safety I suggest keeping the stock ambi. The other ambis on the market are not good and I do recommend them.

 

[Mobuck]

It's been almost a decade since I had my BHP "slicked up" by C&S. Unfortunately, by the time I got it back from the shop, I'd changed to a Ruger KP95DC and I never went back to the BHP. It's sitting in the box fired maybe 50 times since the tune up. Oh well, maybe things will change again and I'll pack the HP later.

 

[Sgt Pepper]

WVSig, what grips are on the top BHP (the wood ones)? Thanks.

 

[WVsig]

Those grips are Hogues. I wanted Spegels but Garthwaite has been waiting 6 months + on them and I did not want to delay my pistol.

 

[RickB]

How many rounds through the gun?
If you have 500 or more rounds through it with no mechanical issues, I wouldn't pay for "reliability work" that doesn't appear to be necessary.
I'm a 1911 guy, have all of my 1911s modified in one way or another to make me happy, but my HP is stock other than the grips.
I think the Mk. III, other than the trigger, is pretty good-to-go in stock form.
If I had to get my gun modified, I'd first replace the sights. Heinie rear and narrow fiber-optic front would be my first choice.
The trigger on my gun is pretty good, a crisp ~5 pounds, but most HPs need a trigger job.
Sights you can see, and a usuable trigger; the primary requirements of any handgun.
A gunwriter acquaintance had a Nighthawk Custom HP for test, and even though the gun costs about $3000, it still had the factory barrel in it! All that work done on the trigger, contouring, sights, refinish, etc., and it doesn't shoot any better than a stock gun.

 

[Jim Watson]

As Jeff Cooper said, the main things you need in a pistol are sights you can see, a trigger you can control, and removal of sharp edges that make handling the weapon uncomfortable.

I am philosophically opposed to doing mill work on a slide for a fixed rear sight, although I will pay for a cross dovetail front. Dawson makes a sight that does not look too bad.

I would want a prominent single safety.

 

[Tom68]

RickB, far as I recall I have about a thousand rounds through this pistol with no malfunctions. its been very reliable, so I won't be doing any of those jobs. I did slip a note in the box asking that the gunsmith give me a call prior to doing work, just as a last minute opportunity to change my mind about details, but I think I'm pretty settled to just the trigger job and reset.

next time out after I've saved some more money (and paid another semester of daughter's tuition) I will consider the outside cosmetics and sights (even though the stock sights are okay for me). I do want a deep gloss blue, though.

 

[velocette]

My Mk III BHP in .40 S&W has been fitted with the Cylinder & Slide hammer & sear, C&S trigger, Bar-Sto barrel & LPA adjustable sights, The magazine disconnect has been removed.
The final result is a pistol with an excellent trigger, accurate and reliable.
John Moses would be proud of it.

 

[Scorch]

IME, the biggest improvement in BHP performance is usually from a new barrel. New trigger, new trigger bar/relocate pivot point, and a good hammer and sear are all great, but most BHPs need a new barrel for accuracy improvement. I have owned 3 9mm BHPs (actually 2 BHPs and a P35) over the years and I am a huge BHP fan, but I have seen few BHPs that shot well. Some of the .40s seem to shoot OK (I missed one just a few months back, so I can't speak from experience on that one).