After 15 months on the waiting list, I have received instructions from Cylinder and Slide that they are ready for me to send my BHP Mk III for work. This pistol was purchased new, and sits alongside a surplus Mk II that I have. My goal is to slick up the new one, and leave the surplus as is. I’m looking for some suggestions regarding the work to be done, as I have the opportunity to fine-tune my instructions.
First off, I am not a virtuoso pistoleer, and really have no real needs in improving this pistol. This is primarily a pride-of-ownership thing, and the internal work is the first stage in having a really nice pistol that matches my particular likes, that quite frankly will be seldom carried, shot somewhat infrequently, and admired often. As stated before, I have the surplus Mk II and it currently shoots exactly like the Mk III, but I have no worries of its appearance and I’ll continue to shoot it a lot.
Also, quite frankly I am not very trigger sensitive: it takes a pretty bad trigger for me to notice. Having said that, the BHP as issued is a bad enough trigger for even me to take notice, especially the almost non-existent reset. Currently my plan is to have this work done: 9B088 - Trigger Pull Lightened to 4-4.5 lb. on MK III Browning with No Magazine Disconnect and 9B014 - Trigger Reconnect Distance Shortened (recommended with 9B001 high grip option). I’d like the experts to weigh in on what I should expect and perhaps if I should re-think the work I’m planning. I do not intend to carry this pistol, but will be using it primarily at the range (as C&S recommends trigger weight for range use only). I definitely do want the magazine disconnect removed (which I have already done to the Mk II), and I definitely want to shorten the reset (and hopefully add a audible and tactile click that I can discern!)
Some of the other options available are: Throat Feed Ramp; Polish and Deburr all Internal Working Surfaces; Radius and Tension the Extractor. How important are those services—to me—for the purposes for which I have explained? Keep in mind that I have about 1000 rounds through this pistol with zero malfunctions thus far.
Down the road I want to polish the frame and slide, and replace the matte finish with a deep blue (like the Brownings of the mid-seventies), nice wood grips, and replace the rear sight (Heinie or Novak).
What does this community think? I don’t necessarily want to make it into a $3500 customized pistol, but I’m not opposed to spending up to another $1000 for the finish, internals, and grips.
First off, I am not a virtuoso pistoleer, and really have no real needs in improving this pistol. This is primarily a pride-of-ownership thing, and the internal work is the first stage in having a really nice pistol that matches my particular likes, that quite frankly will be seldom carried, shot somewhat infrequently, and admired often. As stated before, I have the surplus Mk II and it currently shoots exactly like the Mk III, but I have no worries of its appearance and I’ll continue to shoot it a lot.
Also, quite frankly I am not very trigger sensitive: it takes a pretty bad trigger for me to notice. Having said that, the BHP as issued is a bad enough trigger for even me to take notice, especially the almost non-existent reset. Currently my plan is to have this work done: 9B088 - Trigger Pull Lightened to 4-4.5 lb. on MK III Browning with No Magazine Disconnect and 9B014 - Trigger Reconnect Distance Shortened (recommended with 9B001 high grip option). I’d like the experts to weigh in on what I should expect and perhaps if I should re-think the work I’m planning. I do not intend to carry this pistol, but will be using it primarily at the range (as C&S recommends trigger weight for range use only). I definitely do want the magazine disconnect removed (which I have already done to the Mk II), and I definitely want to shorten the reset (and hopefully add a audible and tactile click that I can discern!)
Some of the other options available are: Throat Feed Ramp; Polish and Deburr all Internal Working Surfaces; Radius and Tension the Extractor. How important are those services—to me—for the purposes for which I have explained? Keep in mind that I have about 1000 rounds through this pistol with zero malfunctions thus far.
Down the road I want to polish the frame and slide, and replace the matte finish with a deep blue (like the Brownings of the mid-seventies), nice wood grips, and replace the rear sight (Heinie or Novak).
What does this community think? I don’t necessarily want to make it into a $3500 customized pistol, but I’m not opposed to spending up to another $1000 for the finish, internals, and grips.