SKS Trigger Disassembly
- Thread starter TGS
- Start date
I don't know if this is helpful or not, but here's an interesting page:
http://17-76.com/sks/trigger.html
http://17-76.com/sks/trigger.html
GOOD STUFF
Thanks for the good stuff. Heading in the right direction and apprciate it. If I find the results significant I'll detail the process. The Pauls Gun-SKS Man has a very good process I will try it. I have also come accross a procedure for a "MATCH" Grade trigger job procedure for the SKS.
Before I disassemble and begin Im going to try an find a little more detail on the hammer removal. I need to compress the hammer spring and I think I need to make a tool to do that with. Its a fairly robust spring and Im afraid if I drift out the pin getting it back in alignment cold be a chore to say the least.
thanks for your info
Tom
Thanks for the good stuff. Heading in the right direction and apprciate it. If I find the results significant I'll detail the process. The Pauls Gun-SKS Man has a very good process I will try it. I have also come accross a procedure for a "MATCH" Grade trigger job procedure for the SKS.
Before I disassemble and begin Im going to try an find a little more detail on the hammer removal. I need to compress the hammer spring and I think I need to make a tool to do that with. Its a fairly robust spring and Im afraid if I drift out the pin getting it back in alignment cold be a chore to say the least.
thanks for your info
Tom
Mike Irwin
Staff
My suggestion is do not try to take the trigger apart. It's something of a pain in the butt to get back together again.
The best trigger group I've ever come across is from a place in Detroit, called, I believe, DC Guns or DC Engineering.
I did an article for American Rifleman on legal modifications to the SKS back in 1994, and they sent me a "competition" trigger group.
It was, to put it mildly, incredible.
The best trigger group I've ever come across is from a place in Detroit, called, I believe, DC Guns or DC Engineering.
I did an article for American Rifleman on legal modifications to the SKS back in 1994, and they sent me a "competition" trigger group.
It was, to put it mildly, incredible.
LoneStranger
New member
Would that be;
D.C. Engineering, INC.
8633 Southfield
Detroit, MI 48228
(313) 271-7112
I have a SKS 5 round restricter from them.
D.C. Engineering, INC.
8633 Southfield
Detroit, MI 48228
(313) 271-7112
I have a SKS 5 round restricter from them.
About 3#'s but...
I got it apart and went thru and polished everything that moves threw everything in the sonic cleaner then lubed the contact surfaces with white lithium grease and put it back togeather. Didnt do anything for the amount of creep but the motion is much smoother and it lets off at a tad more than 3#'s.
some time during the week I will lengthen the trigger bar about an 1/8 but I think the most I will gain from that is to lessen the free travel. I supppose if I were to surface grind the sear face a tad I could reduce the creep but ..........I dont think I'll do that.
Im checking with DC Enterprises in the morning and see what they have. Really appreciate all the good info that I have recieved
I let you know if they still have a good trigger group.
Tom
I got it apart and went thru and polished everything that moves threw everything in the sonic cleaner then lubed the contact surfaces with white lithium grease and put it back togeather. Didnt do anything for the amount of creep but the motion is much smoother and it lets off at a tad more than 3#'s.
some time during the week I will lengthen the trigger bar about an 1/8 but I think the most I will gain from that is to lessen the free travel. I supppose if I were to surface grind the sear face a tad I could reduce the creep but ..........I dont think I'll do that.
Im checking with DC Enterprises in the morning and see what they have. Really appreciate all the good info that I have recieved
I let you know if they still have a good trigger group.
Tom
sleeping dog
New member
I didn't see any trigger on DC Engineering's web site
http://www.rifletech.com/
but it's worth a call.
Their 800 phone number is on the first web page.
Congratulations on defeating the trigger group's hammer spring. I just gave up on mine.
Regards.
http://www.rifletech.com/
but it's worth a call.
Their 800 phone number is on the first web page.
Congratulations on defeating the trigger group's hammer spring. I just gave up on mine.
Regards.
I'm going to the Web site in a moment. As far as defeating the hammer spring... with it uncocked grip it and tug real hard and it will come out of the notches. Now putting it back in can be real testy. If it slips it will be very easy to bury the disconect in the "SHIN-BONE" of your index finger
and that would be a very unpleasant moment. I'll have to admit the trigger is feeling pretty good after just a good polishing but I dont think if it ends up all covered in blood....actually I can imagine taking it over to my anvil and with my 5# maul.....
and that would be a very unpleasant moment. I'll have to admit the trigger is feeling pretty good after just a good polishing but I dont think if it ends up all covered in blood....actually I can imagine taking it over to my anvil and with my 5# maul.....LoneStranger
New member
Just checked their site and the Competition Trigger goes for $150.00.
Click on the picture of the broken apart SKS and then click on (34).
I don't believe I would spend that kind of money on my mismatched number Norinco. Looks like a major DIY project.
Click on the picture of the broken apart SKS and then click on (34).
I don't believe I would spend that kind of money on my mismatched number Norinco. Looks like a major DIY project.
Try this ...
Check this link: http://pub128.ezboard.com/fsurvivorssksboardsgeneralsksdiscussion.showMessage?topicID=1049.topic
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Disclaimer: Every rifle and all action parts are different. You need to be sure your hammer/sear interfaces are sharp, square, and balanced before trying to remove any excess length-of-pull. This post is provided for informational purposes only. Neither this poster nor this forum assumes any liability for whatever YOU do to YOUR trigger group and rifle. If you are not familiar with working on firearms and how to properly check triggers for SAFE operation, then do not attempt this. Be smart, be safe -- YOU have been duly notified. Reading the post in the link deems acknowledgement thereof.
Check this link: http://pub128.ezboard.com/fsurvivorssksboardsgeneralsksdiscussion.showMessage?topicID=1049.topic
.
.
.
Disclaimer: Every rifle and all action parts are different. You need to be sure your hammer/sear interfaces are sharp, square, and balanced before trying to remove any excess length-of-pull. This post is provided for informational purposes only. Neither this poster nor this forum assumes any liability for whatever YOU do to YOUR trigger group and rifle. If you are not familiar with working on firearms and how to properly check triggers for SAFE operation, then do not attempt this. Be smart, be safe -- YOU have been duly notified. Reading the post in the link deems acknowledgement thereof.
I talked to DC yesterday and they are very proud of their trigger! Yes $150 seems just a might steep especially when you can by the entire gun for less. Now they said it has no creep and lets off at 3#'s with little or no take up but still.........
I also found one from Delta Force. The trigger pull measured right at 3#'s there was ample take up and the creep was a little too much but it sold for $58.00 retail ($38.) wholesale and it polished up quite nicely. I check out the site you referenced and see what they have to say.
Tom
I also found one from Delta Force. The trigger pull measured right at 3#'s there was ample take up and the creep was a little too much but it sold for $58.00 retail ($38.) wholesale and it polished up quite nicely. I check out the site you referenced and see what they have to say.
Tom