Sizing Question
- Thread starter Specks
- Start date
Generally resizing involves decapping, you can clean before or after that step. However, you lost me with wet cleaning. The way you worded it I see you priming (recap) followed by a wet cleaning. I would not take that route. I generally resize which removes the spent primer, then I trim (rifle) followed by cleaning. My brass isn't that dirty to begin with. After clean and polish I prime, powder, seat bullet and done.
Anyway, I would not prime and then wet tumble with stainless pins.
Welcome to The Firing Line!
.Ron
The problem with ss pin cleaning before the resize is that it won't get the primer pockets clean.
It also has a more subtle drawback with the flair process . . . When the brass is ss pin clean, the flair tends to gall the brass because it is missing the powder residue inside the case mouth - which has a little bit of a lubricating property.
I take my brass prep more seriously than most. Many will roll their eyes after reading this . . .
After a trip to the range, I vibra-tumble my brass with corn cob media first. It gets them clean enough to run through the size die, yet leaves the inside with the afore-mentioned powder residue.
After I size/decap and flair, I then wet tumble in ss pin media for a final like-new cleaning - inside-n-out, including primer pockets.
That's more work than most would bother with. I know. But after countless trials and error; that's the process that works for me.
It also has a more subtle drawback with the flair process . . . When the brass is ss pin clean, the flair tends to gall the brass because it is missing the powder residue inside the case mouth - which has a little bit of a lubricating property.
I take my brass prep more seriously than most. Many will roll their eyes after reading this . . .
After a trip to the range, I vibra-tumble my brass with corn cob media first. It gets them clean enough to run through the size die, yet leaves the inside with the afore-mentioned powder residue.
After I size/decap and flair, I then wet tumble in ss pin media for a final like-new cleaning - inside-n-out, including primer pockets.
That's more work than most would bother with. I know. But after countless trials and error; that's the process that works for me.
firewrench044
New member
Deprime
Wet tumble
Size
Trim
primer pocket work
Flash hole debur
Anneal
Clean sizing lube off
Dry ( if necessary )
Reload or store
Wet tumble
Size
Trim
primer pocket work
Flash hole debur
Anneal
Clean sizing lube off
Dry ( if necessary )
Reload or store
I dry tumble ( walnut shells )...several hundred spent cases at a time.
Sort out bad cases ( dents, ugly, cases that are a problem like S&B, Amerc, etc - those all go into a recyling tub) ...dump good cases into a "sorted and clean" 8 gal tub for storage.
I spray a few hundred "sorted and clean" cases with lube...let dry 15 min ...and drop them all into case feeder...to be run thru press ( desprime and resize in station 1 .../ Station 2 seat new primer, bell case and powder drop / station 3 powder check / station 4 bullet seating / station 5 final crimp and sizing.
wipe off any lube residue - case gague and inspect every round - box for use.
Sort out bad cases ( dents, ugly, cases that are a problem like S&B, Amerc, etc - those all go into a recyling tub) ...dump good cases into a "sorted and clean" 8 gal tub for storage.
I spray a few hundred "sorted and clean" cases with lube...let dry 15 min ...and drop them all into case feeder...to be run thru press ( desprime and resize in station 1 .../ Station 2 seat new primer, bell case and powder drop / station 3 powder check / station 4 bullet seating / station 5 final crimp and sizing.
wipe off any lube residue - case gague and inspect every round - box for use.
Nick C S
I have to admit with preping my 308 brass, I'm a little over the top. With 0000 steel wool I polish the inside & out of the case neck, also the base to make sure it's flush from stamping, brand & caliber. When I seat the bullet its smooth as silk. My not improve accuracy but they sure look pretty.
I have to admit with preping my 308 brass, I'm a little over the top. With 0000 steel wool I polish the inside & out of the case neck, also the base to make sure it's flush from stamping, brand & caliber. When I seat the bullet its smooth as silk. My not improve accuracy but they sure look pretty.
603Country
New member
When I do polish brass, I just load it in my cheap Harbor Freight vibratory unit, which is full of HF crushed walnut shells. I do it prior to depriming, since I once had some minor problems cleaning walnut chunks out of deprimed flash holes.
Specks what casings are we talking about pistol or rifle?
For my pistols 9mm and 40 brass I shoot at my outdoor range. I put them in a bucket with a little dawn and water mix them by had a few times to get the dirt out of the casings. I then rinse them good put them in a dehydrator to dry. I then decap and resize, then I wet tumble them with dawn and lemmi shine. I rinse them good and put them in the dehydrator to dry and they are ready to use.
For my pistols 9mm and 40 brass I shoot at my outdoor range. I put them in a bucket with a little dawn and water mix them by had a few times to get the dirt out of the casings. I then rinse them good put them in a dehydrator to dry. I then decap and resize, then I wet tumble them with dawn and lemmi shine. I rinse them good and put them in the dehydrator to dry and they are ready to use.