Single action-Case,Nickel or Blued?

Well, you don't see many full-blue guns except the dull finish economy models from Cabellas or the US Rodeo, or the deluxe models like the flat-top target repro; most are blue and case hardened in colors. My Colt and Cimarron show little wear to the case colors after some years of CAS, and I do not baby them. The fake case colors on the Vaquero are pretty fragile, but I don't worry about a little finish wear on a working gun. I don't care for nickel or the polished stainless Rugers, the sights are hard enough to see anyway, without making them shiny.
 
I've heard that you have to treat case hardening with kid gloves.Is this true?
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Maybe so. I know for a fact that you don't want the sun to set on a case hardened frame that hasn't been cleaned,,,, unless you prefer that soft warm orange glow that rust imparts.

That isn't all bad though on a working gun. Rub a little oil into it and it brings back some of the color.

As much as I like Nickel, the stuff just isn't practical. It looks lke hell when it gets scratched. If it's on a more "show than go" piece, I'd get Nickel.
 
It's a bit weird, but I really like the matte blue on the Rodeo, plus the fact that the gun is superbly fitted and timed.

And AFAIK, they are still only $505, retail.

Jim
 
I have an EMF and the case hardening is crap. It is just an applied finish. If you are going to get a good gun with real case hardening I sure it would be great.

I would try the blued. I like my single action to show a little wear. I think the blued frame would age well.

Another option might be brushed chrome.

Or, if you are brave. Crack out the Navel Jelly, stip the finish. Hose it down (outside, please) with lighter fluid and let it age. Or, give it a coat of cold blue (I heat the metal very carefully before applying the cold blue so it sizzles. Don't you do it because it is dangerous to the gun to you.) And then give it a good hard rub with 0000 steel wool. I have done this to cheap H&Rs and cap and balls and it looks great.
 
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