Single Action .357 Revolver

D

dek785

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If you wanted to fire .38 special loads in a .357 magnum single action revolver would you choose .38 special cases or .357 magnum cases with reduced loads ?

If you opted for .38 Special cases would this eventually cause problems with either extracting .357 magnum cases, or cleaning the chambers ?

I assume the same situation would apply to .44 special loads in a .44 magnum.
 
I never had any problems shooting the shorter rounds in a .357, other then prolonged shooting of grungy cast lead handloads, might eventually require cleaning the chambers but it's hardly a problem. That's the beauty of the .357 is being able to shoot all of the shorter .38 specials out of it.
 
I found two problems using .38 special cases in my .357. One, they wear out and crack too fast. Two, although others has stated their experience is different, I found that my cast bullet hand loads were more accurate when I use .357 cases.
 
I have fired thousands of .38 Special factory and reloads in a variety of .38 and .357 revolvers and doubt firing in a .357 chamber causes the cases to wear or crack. What does is repeated crimping of the cases in reloading, no matter what chambers they are fired in.

Jim
 
I use 357 cases because they are about the same price as 38 and even though the loads are less than full power 357 they are hotter than 38 +p.
 
I prefer to use light loads in .357 brass, but will use .38 brass if it's all I have.

A .40 caliber bore brush in a cordless drill will clean your chambers right quick after firing .38's.
 
[QUOTEI use .357 cases, mainly so I don't have to keep up with two different types of brass. ][/QUOTE]

I take the opposite approach. I use .38 cases for .38SPL level loads and .357 Magnums for magnums, only. This give me quick postive visual identification of which level of ammo I'm about to shoot.

I also have a .357 carbine, and load for it using brass .357 cases, never nickel, again, so there is no confusion.

Been shooting .38s out of .357s since the early 70s, and unless you shoot a bunch of really crappy dirty .38s without cleaning before putting in .357s is no problem. And on those rare occassions where I'ver reall crudded up the gun, its still wasn't a problem, just an annoyance.
 
Plus one on Amp's post....the 357 brass is strictly for high intensity loads...and too, in a test I made years ago, I never found better or worse accuracy when similar velocity loads are put up in either .357 or .38 brass. It just takes a tenth of a grain or a little more to get the same velocity in the longer magnum case.

As to cleaning...not a problem...I shoot nothing but LSWC's in .38 Special brass for practice through my Magnums and those beautifully burnished S&W and Ruger chambers are a breeze to clean. Rod
 
I'm with AMP.

When I load moderate powered loads for my S&W revolver I use the .38 brass case. When I load moderate powered loads for my 44 mag revolver or lever action carbine I use .44 special brass. If I do a hotter load then I use the longer magnum case.

I haven't had any issues with the build up in the cylinder/chamber due to the shorter case length. I just clean my guns as needed and haven't had any problems yet.
 
rebs....38 special velocity loads in .357 brass are no great trick for most any reloader. I use Winchester 231 or HP38 as my powder of choice for most all light to medium loads in a variety of calibers. For some good loads, go to the Hodgen powder site, and check the .357 and .38 Spl data. HTH's Rod
 
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